I started a thread here about these drivers and scottmoose gave me a sim which I implemented and really like. I use no Baffle step correction or filtering of any kind. i make no claims that they are audiophile but they are a lot of fun. Any make you wonder what your buying in a commercial design.
They seem to have some sort of distortion issue that is most audible in piano recordings, I don't no why. On the flip side the voice intelligibility is phenomenal (the hidden bonus here is that my wife is much more willing to watch movies in english (she's austrian) if the speakers are on). If i new why this was I'd explain it in more technical terms, but I can't so I won't.
I'd try the mods since I have enough of these things but I can't find them anywhere and the links I found don't work.
All in all these things sold me on the potential of fullrange drivers and t-lines, and tang band for that matter.
I'm planning on trying a four driver truncated array similar to what RBH does in there T-30 set up. Who knows if it will work well. Probably not. Who cares it's all about having fun after all it's a hobby.
They seem to have some sort of distortion issue that is most audible in piano recordings, I don't no why. On the flip side the voice intelligibility is phenomenal (the hidden bonus here is that my wife is much more willing to watch movies in english (she's austrian) if the speakers are on). If i new why this was I'd explain it in more technical terms, but I can't so I won't.
I'd try the mods since I have enough of these things but I can't find them anywhere and the links I found don't work.
All in all these things sold me on the potential of fullrange drivers and t-lines, and tang band for that matter.
I'm planning on trying a four driver truncated array similar to what RBH does in there T-30 set up. Who knows if it will work well. Probably not. Who cares it's all about having fun after all it's a hobby.
flaevor,
MarkMcK's mods don't seem to be on his website anymore, but i am interested in trying them out also. I was curious as to why the Onken calc wasn't working with these drivers since their parameters are similar to FR125s and Fe127s, so I asked Dave about the MiniOnkens and Fonkens. So i have decided to build a pair of Onken style enclosures as well. I've been doing some designing and if all goes well, i will try to get to the workshop this weekend.
Josh
MarkMcK's mods don't seem to be on his website anymore, but i am interested in trying them out also. I was curious as to why the Onken calc wasn't working with these drivers since their parameters are similar to FR125s and Fe127s, so I asked Dave about the MiniOnkens and Fonkens. So i have decided to build a pair of Onken style enclosures as well. I've been doing some designing and if all goes well, i will try to get to the workshop this weekend.
Josh
This weekend I started my project, but did not get as much done as I had hoped. Everything has taken longer than suspected, even going and getting wood. The workshop that I am using at school is nice, but everything takes much longer. I have to walk all around to get tools, set them up, put them back... its much easier in my garage back at home, but they have 10x as many tools at the workshop, and way more clamps 
. I'm using 3/4" Baltic Birtch with 1/2" vent pieces. Each enclosure has 10 vents. So far I have made all the cuts, glued the vent pieces together, and started cutting the braces. I'm going to try to put pictures up next weekend when I'm able to do some work on it.
I guess I never fully explained that I am building Onken style enclosures. These are called BiTonkens. I also designs pair of Onken style enclosures for s single w4-1052 that i call Tonkens.
Josh
. I'm using 3/4" Baltic Birtch with 1/2" vent pieces. Each enclosure has 10 vents. So far I have made all the cuts, glued the vent pieces together, and started cutting the braces. I'm going to try to put pictures up next weekend when I'm able to do some work on it.I guess I never fully explained that I am building Onken style enclosures. These are called BiTonkens. I also designs pair of Onken style enclosures for s single w4-1052 that i call Tonkens.
Josh
I finally finished the BiTonkens. They are a little bass heavy, but a sub is definately not needed. Compared to the FE127s they are missing a little top end and some detail. The soundstage is large is seems to have quite a bit of depth. These drivers are much more laid back than the Fostex. I prefer the forwardness of the Fostex. Listening to John Mayer is more relaxing with these, but i prefer the more in your face sound. I feel like i'm in the front row of a concert, while with these its more relaxing, like a balcony seat.
Unfortunately I'm having a problem with distortion. Originally it seemed to be a problem with the frame needing to be grounded, but after changing speaker cables, most of the distortion went away. I'm guessing I just had a poor connection, but now I don't know what to do to fix the distortion that is left. The right speaker seems to have more a distortion problem than the left. I'm going to do more investigating, but once that problem is solved I will be extremely satisfied.
Overall I'm satisfied. Great bass, good midrange, and wide sound stage. The bass is very tight, no port turbulance. Sidenote about the soundstage. I listened to some old school rock (no not classic, more like early 90s rock) and realized that the vocals on a specific sound sway from left to right over and over again, its suddle because it is not all the way left and not all the way right, but this was something that i had never heard with the FE127s.
Josh
Unfortunately I'm having a problem with distortion. Originally it seemed to be a problem with the frame needing to be grounded, but after changing speaker cables, most of the distortion went away. I'm guessing I just had a poor connection, but now I don't know what to do to fix the distortion that is left. The right speaker seems to have more a distortion problem than the left. I'm going to do more investigating, but once that problem is solved I will be extremely satisfied.
Overall I'm satisfied. Great bass, good midrange, and wide sound stage. The bass is very tight, no port turbulance. Sidenote about the soundstage. I listened to some old school rock (no not classic, more like early 90s rock) and realized that the vocals on a specific sound sway from left to right over and over again, its suddle because it is not all the way left and not all the way right, but this was something that i had never heard with the FE127s.
Josh
So, are you guys having good luck without any type of filter at all?
I wanted to build a mini me clone for portable audio with a $30 tamp, powered with just batteries.
It sounds like you guys might have a bit of trouble with treble break up. How bad is it, or has anyone made a filter to deal with it?
I've never modified a driver, and the directions to get 20K Hz out of these guys seem to be busted.
I wanted to build a mini me clone for portable audio with a $30 tamp, powered with just batteries.
It sounds like you guys might have a bit of trouble with treble break up. How bad is it, or has anyone made a filter to deal with it?
I've never modified a driver, and the directions to get 20K Hz out of these guys seem to be busted.
I'm running some without correction circuits or cone mods. Once broken in they sound great overall. I would like to try the mods but can no longer find any info on it. From a sound aspect I can't hear any significant peaks in the responce as the charts indicate. I have heard them break up 3 times(Reproducing piano) and they have been listened to a lot.
I'm have not tried the mod, but would like to. I have been pretty unimpressed with these drivers. The bass is very good, but other than that, I don't think these are particularly good. I am used to the forwardness of the Fostex drivers and this driver cannot offer what I'm looking for. The sparkle in music is gone. John Mayer doesn't seem like he is sitting right infront of me, it sounds like he is 5+ meters back. Not sure about the circuit, but can definately try the cone mod. The circuit, I don't how that would work since I have wired the drivers in series. I find that I hear the distortion cause be the cone material quite often. When this happens I usually end up swearing at these speakers. These were in my dorm room and I was having a lot of trouble the past 2 months or so with audio equipment problems.
Thanks for the files tommyo
Thanks,
Josh
Thanks for the files tommyo
Thanks,
Josh
What amp are you using for these?They have plenty of sparkle with a single ended triode amp, but not enough to be fatiguing. They did sound pretty sterile when hooked to a solid state receiver though, which I just used to break them in faster since it has a higher power output than the SET. I've heard better, but not from anything even close in price range.
Wow, it's nice living so close to parts express.
I ordered a pair and a t-amp yesterday. I got the stuff in today.
I wanted to hear what they would sound like, and I'm already working on a project, and a little sick and tired of MDF at the moment.
I stuck then in boxes for Blows 101s and they sound freaken great!!! I think these drivers and the t-amp were made for each other. BTW, I'm just running off of batteries.
I can't wait to see what they will sound like once broken in.
I wouldn't go so far as to recommend the Bose 101s boxes as being optimal, but if your in a hurry, and just want some portable audio like I did, then I think they can be found used on e-bay for around $20. It might just be worth it for the boxes. They are nice and rugged and work rather well. It's going to take a LOT of motivation for me to go out of my way to make custom boxes, cause I like the way they sound as is.
I ordered a pair and a t-amp yesterday. I got the stuff in today.
I wanted to hear what they would sound like, and I'm already working on a project, and a little sick and tired of MDF at the moment.
I stuck then in boxes for Blows 101s and they sound freaken great!!! I think these drivers and the t-amp were made for each other. BTW, I'm just running off of batteries.
I can't wait to see what they will sound like once broken in.
I wouldn't go so far as to recommend the Bose 101s boxes as being optimal, but if your in a hurry, and just want some portable audio like I did, then I think they can be found used on e-bay for around $20. It might just be worth it for the boxes. They are nice and rugged and work rather well. It's going to take a LOT of motivation for me to go out of my way to make custom boxes, cause I like the way they sound as is.
Well, I played with win ISD a little and I'm going to make a new baffle for it.
I modeled the blows 101s box. Not 100% optimal, but with a 6" port (it will stick about 2") it will be tunned to 57hz. The graph shows 70hz -3db. I think that is more realistic. It will have a very mild mid range peak, but for my overall goal to beat the sound quality of any portable boom box, or desk system, I've already succeeded in that.
I modeled the blows 101s box. Not 100% optimal, but with a 6" port (it will stick about 2") it will be tunned to 57hz. The graph shows 70hz -3db. I think that is more realistic. It will have a very mild mid range peak, but for my overall goal to beat the sound quality of any portable boom box, or desk system, I've already succeeded in that.
Jeb-D. said:
I should hope so, that's not setting the bar very high.
Keep us posted on your findings.
Well, ya. I was saying that I already did that just sticking the speakers in a box that wasn't even made for them. Flush mounting them on my baffle with a 6" port will make them close to optimal. They could use a slightly bigger box, but I want to use the blows boxes because they are rugged, and I already have stands for them.
It was kind of funny, cause I took them fishing with the portable SI t-amp, and a friend of mine saw the Bose name on the box, and wondered why they sounded so good.
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