Actually if you take a piece of alu and a piece of copper with identical measures, the dissipation will be exactly the same, but copper will lead the heat faster away from the heat source to dissipation.
Painting it black will make the dissipation better in both cases.
So Vikash you are right about copper conducting better.
Painting it black will make the dissipation better in both cases.
So Vikash you are right about copper conducting better.
heattransfer
As Daniel pointed out: Surface (exposed to (free) flowing air) is the key factor in getting rid of the heat. In view of the free exposure copper will do better in the Peter Daniel design, where as far as I can see only the backside is freely exposed.
E&E
As Daniel pointed out: Surface (exposed to (free) flowing air) is the key factor in getting rid of the heat. In view of the free exposure copper will do better in the Peter Daniel design, where as far as I can see only the backside is freely exposed.
E&E
I'm using perforated aluminum top panel, and this dissipates most of heat in Patek design.
With the integrated chassis, the copper piece is connected to rear panel (which surface by itself is big enough), but it also connects to the mid plate, which in turn is connected to the top panel.
In any case, GC generates very little heat, and dissipating it shouldn't be a problem in most designs.
With the integrated chassis, the copper piece is connected to rear panel (which surface by itself is big enough), but it also connects to the mid plate, which in turn is connected to the top panel.
In any case, GC generates very little heat, and dissipating it shouldn't be a problem in most designs.
As to the computer cables, I'm not sure how much current they can take, but if you put them in parallel (per rail), chances are they will work.
Temperature transfer of copper ( against aluminium ) is similar as electricel conductivity - difference is a few percent 😉 .
More transparent than the amp. So much so that you can't see any of it 😀BrianGT said:
I'll start on it soon hopefully, and want it to be a simple dark block for the amp to sit on.
Peter Daniel said:
Guestimating from their size the "Therminator" says that C/W=2.1 which is just dandy for ambient air flow.
Nice work 😎
I Like the ideia.... small, simple and we can say original 😎
When you finish, tell us about the sound quality 😉
I Like the ideia.... small, simple and we can say original 😎
When you finish, tell us about the sound quality 😉
Vikash,
Your amp is very well done. From your attention to your own site and others you have designed, I can tell you are a designer with a keen eye.
I hope to see more of what you are doing, as it is very well thought out and is much more of a success than most comercial designs I see.
Thank you,
Sandy.
Your amp is very well done. From your attention to your own site and others you have designed, I can tell you are a designer with a keen eye.
I hope to see more of what you are doing, as it is very well thought out and is much more of a success than most comercial designs I see.
Thank you,
Sandy.
Upupa,
I think Vikash is a very accomplished web designer for sure. I personally thought his choice to build a nice small chassis using clear materials to show off the boards inside was much nicer than a plain black rack mount chassis.
On the other hand, I have seen some of the boards I believe you have designed and posted and they look very impressive as well. I'm not sure of the details, though, as the threads seem to often get muddled in people arguing and I stop reading at that time. If you had a website that shows some of your projects without the forum arguing, I'd like to learn more about that too.
Vikash gave both and I enjoyed it and still think congratulations are in order.
Sandy.
I think Vikash is a very accomplished web designer for sure. I personally thought his choice to build a nice small chassis using clear materials to show off the boards inside was much nicer than a plain black rack mount chassis.
On the other hand, I have seen some of the boards I believe you have designed and posted and they look very impressive as well. I'm not sure of the details, though, as the threads seem to often get muddled in people arguing and I stop reading at that time. If you had a website that shows some of your projects without the forum arguing, I'd like to learn more about that too.
Vikash gave both and I enjoyed it and still think congratulations are in order.
Sandy.
I think that looks great in a "case mod" sort of way. are you making up for the fact you have a laptop 🙂
Hey guys, can we leave the negativity out please. There really is no reason for it in this thread. It is about a nice looking chassis design, not anything else...
Not sure how thick computer cable is, but I made the umbilical using stranded cable 0.5mm2 and it seems to be fine. I'm quite enjoying it but for the attenuator. Not nearly enough steps for my taste.falcott said:
😀 It's ironic that I hate that PC case mod look but still managed to create something you might describe as similar too 😉 I actually wanted something that would sit on top of my pillar of external computer peripherals (modem, router, sc break out box...) - hence the size and dimensions of TATCA. Not sure if RFI will allow this though 🙄neutron7 said:
I tried some holes in the top, but it didnt turn out too well. Probably try again with another design before reverting to plain and simple again.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
That about a design in the top?
Maybe a little to childish but you could try doing something neat with the word "Gainclone" or "GC" besides the Gucci sign
or maybe not
Maybe a little to childish but you could try doing something neat with the word "Gainclone" or "GC" besides the Gucci sign
or maybe not
Hello Vikash
Earlyer in this thread you mentioned that you would like to make the panels less blend, if you know someone working with stainless steel they probably have the tools for glassblasting (i'm not sure if its called that in english) it's the same as sandblasting using very fine glasspowder instead of sand, this will give the surfaces a nice diffuse look still being able to see the shadows of the components through it.
The material is to "soft" to get a good result using grindingpaper.
You have to be very carefull blasting it, the "glasspowder" is "eating" the material rather fast.
Earlyer in this thread you mentioned that you would like to make the panels less blend, if you know someone working with stainless steel they probably have the tools for glassblasting (i'm not sure if its called that in english) it's the same as sandblasting using very fine glasspowder instead of sand, this will give the surfaces a nice diffuse look still being able to see the shadows of the components through it.
The material is to "soft" to get a good result using grindingpaper.
You have to be very carefull blasting it, the "glasspowder" is "eating" the material rather fast.
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