Hi,
The ideal subwoofer to go with the B3's would be designed
to work at similar limited maximum levels, or at least use
bass boost to extend the response at lowish levels.
See Cheap 8" subwoofer here : http://www.zaphaudio.com/archives.html
🙂/sreten.
The ideal subwoofer to go with the B3's would be designed
to work at similar limited maximum levels, or at least use
bass boost to extend the response at lowish levels.
See Cheap 8" subwoofer here : http://www.zaphaudio.com/archives.html
🙂/sreten.
planet10 said:
Hi,
True. But they can be used with an AV amplifier and subwoofer
whilst the FF85 cannot. the FF85 in the Fonken may "do" 100Hz
allegedly but not at any level I would find acceptable, I don't
think it can "do" 200Hz either.
The latter depends on the context, I do not ascribe "magic" to drivers.
🙂/sreten.
Re: thanks but...
Hi,
First you need to get a plate amplifier with possibly built in bass boost.
Then choose the right driver for the sort of cabinet size you want
that optimises the trade off between level capability and extension.
Here is two threads on subwoofers for small speakers (on the cheap) :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=79582
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80138
The above covers a few issues regardng small subwoofers.
What sub drivers are available to you ?
🙂/sreten.
phobik said:
Hi,
First you need to get a plate amplifier with possibly built in bass boost.
Then choose the right driver for the sort of cabinet size you want
that optimises the trade off between level capability and extension.
Here is two threads on subwoofers for small speakers (on the cheap) :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=79582
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80138
The above covers a few issues regardng small subwoofers.
What sub drivers are available to you ?
🙂/sreten.
sreten said:
Nonsense. Depends on the context, as you yourself point out. You a) need two of them (which is a good thing anyway) and b) pick a driver + plate amp etc. that can go up a reasonable way, & keep them reasonably close together.
Your taste. Personally, I'd rather leave all the LF to a driver designed for the task anyway. The B3 'doing' an extra 20Hz or whatever on the bottom end is of little practical value IMNSHO. 3in driver = bass not on the cards, whatever unit you pick. They all need crossing over higher up. And when you do that, other factors come into play -which have superior midrange quality / detail / whatever, upper extension etc.
sreten said:
Have you heard either? I own both. They both are at their best when hi-passed.
dave
Re: Re: thanks but...
I have no idea, neither what drivers I can get in europe or what amp to get, or what enclosure to build
🙁
I didn't want to get much into the designing and was more hopeing to try something already proven for my first project. Maybe if I succeed and everything goes well, I can start thinking of venturing into those areas 🙄
sreten said:
I have no idea, neither what drivers I can get in europe or what amp to get, or what enclosure to build
🙁 I didn't want to get much into the designing and was more hopeing to try something already proven for my first project. Maybe if I succeed and everything goes well, I can start thinking of venturing into those areas 🙄
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