tangband 3" full range w/ wood phase plug?
Anyone heard/tested the new TANGBAND W3-517SA, which appears to have a wooden, Lowther type phase plug?
i just ordered a pair of W3-871 for a DIY project, but noticed on the TB web site the new 3" with the big wood phase plug and am wondering what the story is with that.
Also, any reason why TANGBAND doesn't design their full range speakers to be as sensitive/efficient as Fostex or Lowther? Seems to limit their application to SET based systems if sensitivity is at only 86 spl
Thanks
W3-517SA
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w3-517sa.asp
Anyone heard/tested the new TANGBAND W3-517SA, which appears to have a wooden, Lowther type phase plug?
i just ordered a pair of W3-871 for a DIY project, but noticed on the TB web site the new 3" with the big wood phase plug and am wondering what the story is with that.
Also, any reason why TANGBAND doesn't design their full range speakers to be as sensitive/efficient as Fostex or Lowther? Seems to limit their application to SET based systems if sensitivity is at only 86 spl
Thanks
W3-517SA
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w3-517sa.asp
Attachments
hmmmm... that X-MAX figure looks suspicious
thanks. you're right, 0.20 mm doesn't seem possible.... it may be a typo ? but that figure is repeated in specs for several other TB 3" spkrs.
I dunno... how can it push enough air to get any SPL if the x-max is so low? But this appears to be the speaker of choice for some DIY builders who claim good bass output.... ???????
thanks. you're right, 0.20 mm doesn't seem possible.... it may be a typo ? but that figure is repeated in specs for several other TB 3" spkrs.
I dunno... how can it push enough air to get any SPL if the x-max is so low? But this appears to be the speaker of choice for some DIY builders who claim good bass output.... ???????
that was my first comment as well "that's not a phase plug, it's KNOB! "
anyhow, it occurs to me that if it's not a typo, it's because the motor can't hack all that MASS all over the place. Come to think of it, the xmax make sense unless the wood is balsa or something light like that. Small magnet, high mass, let's just limit travel mechanically so it won't flop around eh?
If you want to change the response of the driver, just go down to your local Home Depot...
anyhow, it occurs to me that if it's not a typo, it's because the motor can't hack all that MASS all over the place. Come to think of it, the xmax make sense unless the wood is balsa or something light like that. Small magnet, high mass, let's just limit travel mechanically so it won't flop around eh?
If you want to change the response of the driver, just go down to your local Home Depot...
Stocker said:that was my first comment as well "that's not a phase plug, it's KNOB! "
anyhow, it occurs to me that if it's not a typo, it's because the motor can't hack all that MASS all over the place. Come to think of it, the xmax make sense unless the wood is balsa or something light like that. Small magnet, high mass, let's just limit travel mechanically so it won't flop around eh?
If you want to change the response of the driver, just go down to your local Home Depot...
as far as I know, the phase plug doesn't move; it's stationary and is attached to the motor assembly through the voice coil.
lower x-max preferred?
for what it's worth, there is at least one DIY veteran who claims lower x-max sounds better:
http://home.new.rr.com/zaph/audio/lowxmax.html
for what it's worth, there is at least one DIY veteran who claims lower x-max sounds better:
http://home.new.rr.com/zaph/audio/lowxmax.html
That's a good opinion to hold, what the linked page says. Who *really* needs 10 liters of swept volume to listen to CDs? we are not after all (most of us) attempting to knock down the walls with bass. I can generally give the guy the point for saying ~music~ may not need the same excursion that HT needs.
That said, I think this is a bit silly. I think if anyone cares to model this particular driver's frequency vs excursion curve, they would find it is overreaching a lot lower than they might like. It may be fine for a near-field monitor setup, but for listening across the room, you'll want a midwoofer at least, possibly.
That said, I think this is a bit silly. I think if anyone cares to model this particular driver's frequency vs excursion curve, they would find it is overreaching a lot lower than they might like. It may be fine for a near-field monitor setup, but for listening across the room, you'll want a midwoofer at least, possibly.
cathode_leak said:Talking about knobs, here's another one... Mounted on a Lowther... on the beauhorn virtuoso......
Nice link, thanks.
Hi
Have been using the earlier w3-517S1 for some time
in a cored well stuffed 150mm acrylic sphere.
Good from around 200hz up. I have two pairs and
might put one set into a 200mm wood sphere. Will try
and fish out my Clio measurements if I can. Imaging is
great and I might even Dammar one of the pairs to
compare performance.
AnthonyPT
Have been using the earlier w3-517S1 for some time
in a cored well stuffed 150mm acrylic sphere.
Good from around 200hz up. I have two pairs and
might put one set into a 200mm wood sphere. Will try
and fish out my Clio measurements if I can. Imaging is
great and I might even Dammar one of the pairs to
compare performance.
AnthonyPT
Attachments
AnthonyPT said:in a cored well stuffed 150mm acrylic sphere.
Is that a found item or did you make them?
Egg shapes?
dave
Stocker said:Where is the edit button?
Hi Stocker,
The edit button only seems to stay there for about a half hour or less then simply disappears into computer heaven.
Cal
Edit: spelling
AnthonyPT said:Hi
They are modified light fixtures from Italy
Must use the thick shell types. I also do spheres
in ceramic, wood and soon lightweight concrete.
May to dome in Ozzie Jarrah hard wood too.
AnthonyPT
Very nice... Any how-to's or guides to picking them out? I'd love to make some gallo-esque sphere speakers!
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