There doesn't seem to be a huge selection of horn drivers these days. I think they can be more intimidating than tweeters. But some like the de250 can cross fairly low to a lively woofer. I would think one could also cross something a de 10 higher up to something like the tangband w6-2144, which was on sale the other day. Sort of like a supertweeter set up. If full range drivers were optimized to only go to about 10 khz they would be better suited to use with super tweeters or small horns.
Well, there's a larger selection of mid-bass horn drivers and mids/HF horns than ever before and about the same for horn tweeters, so just a matter of match-up unless wanting to make mini-horn systems, though even then there's tiny tweeters that can be WG loaded or even compression loaded by adding a low pass filter [front chamber] as Patrick Bateman? and a few others have documented over time [me included, though seems like it was on some forums that's been wiped out from the web archive.
WRT 'full-range' drivers, Lowther is designed for a FL/BL [compound] horn, so can look for similar specs for either.
FWIW, my [casual] speaker building 'career' was mostly using discarded radio, TV, console speakers and adding console piezo horn tweeters [two sizes available] complete with its 2.2 uF cap that seemed to work just fine regardless of the wide range driver's size/response, though back then [~'60-'75] most folks only had [very] low distortion ['clean'] power w/tone controls.
Anyway, my point is that today there's so much for the [especially casual] DIYer to choose from that combined with being able to easily/cheaply measure pretty much everything worth measuring [and more than the pioneers could or was willing to, do, not to mention many feeling forced to] that will have even a subjective impact on in-room performance has proven to 'blind'/overload folks from the fact that we only hear well in the 250-2500 Hz [telephone] BW, so allowing an octave on either side to add 'fullness' to male voices [125-5000 Hz/~AM radio BW], i.e. the lower you go, the wider its BW with 0 Hz = Dc.
For a satisfying wide range music playback [large orchestra, pipe organ], the pioneers concluded that 50 - 11 kHz [10 kHz SMPTE cinema standard] was sufficient, so while I normally recommend using THX reference for truly wide range systems; to my way of thinking, better to use this [only recently] obsolete reference for extending HIFI apps.
All that said, how best overall to add a [super] tweeter? IME, start with a compression driver and ~0.75-1.5 thick hardwood or higher density material [depending on axial length needed] to make the horn using a router, round over bits or lathe, cutting tool or if good with a knife, just carve it as I did since it doesn't need to be all that accurate due to our lack of hearing acuity above ~5 kHz.
Otherwise, just use this one or similar and EQ/DSP to 'taste': Amazon.com: Beyma CP21/F 1-Inch 8 ohm 50 watt High Frequency Compression Slot Tweeter: Car Electronics
GM
WRT 'full-range' drivers, Lowther is designed for a FL/BL [compound] horn, so can look for similar specs for either.
FWIW, my [casual] speaker building 'career' was mostly using discarded radio, TV, console speakers and adding console piezo horn tweeters [two sizes available] complete with its 2.2 uF cap that seemed to work just fine regardless of the wide range driver's size/response, though back then [~'60-'75] most folks only had [very] low distortion ['clean'] power w/tone controls.
Anyway, my point is that today there's so much for the [especially casual] DIYer to choose from that combined with being able to easily/cheaply measure pretty much everything worth measuring [and more than the pioneers could or was willing to, do, not to mention many feeling forced to] that will have even a subjective impact on in-room performance has proven to 'blind'/overload folks from the fact that we only hear well in the 250-2500 Hz [telephone] BW, so allowing an octave on either side to add 'fullness' to male voices [125-5000 Hz/~AM radio BW], i.e. the lower you go, the wider its BW with 0 Hz = Dc.
For a satisfying wide range music playback [large orchestra, pipe organ], the pioneers concluded that 50 - 11 kHz [10 kHz SMPTE cinema standard] was sufficient, so while I normally recommend using THX reference for truly wide range systems; to my way of thinking, better to use this [only recently] obsolete reference for extending HIFI apps.
All that said, how best overall to add a [super] tweeter? IME, start with a compression driver and ~0.75-1.5 thick hardwood or higher density material [depending on axial length needed] to make the horn using a router, round over bits or lathe, cutting tool or if good with a knife, just carve it as I did since it doesn't need to be all that accurate due to our lack of hearing acuity above ~5 kHz.
Otherwise, just use this one or similar and EQ/DSP to 'taste': Amazon.com: Beyma CP21/F 1-Inch 8 ohm 50 watt High Frequency Compression Slot Tweeter: Car Electronics
GM
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Hey thanks for the detailed reply, a lot of information. I was looking at the tand band because I have this dayton waveguide tweeter sitting around.
Dayton Audio ND25FW-4 1" Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter with Waveguide 4 Ohm
The response is sloped down and becomes a rainbow like a typical horn. So I think I can use a cap and roll it off to use it as a supertweeter. I was also looking at the GRS bofu. If you roll off tweeter with a small cap I suppose the phase will change and who knows how it will match at the crossover point. But then again as you point are hearing isn;t that sensitive up near 5K and also directivity makes driver phase less important.
Those GRS bofus look like they might have a nice sound and natural roll off, whereas the Tang band goes higher.