I'm replacing the electrolytics in my Tandberg TR2075 (see this thread) and need some help with identification. This gallery has some pics of the unit being stripped down: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v75/Pootle/Tandberg_TR2075_Breakdown
1. Can I tell the year of manufacture from the serial number?
2. The RIAA input board has the number 42449-4 and uses BC549 transistors. It is different from the one in the Service Manual which uses BC149s. It appears to be the board from the TR2080. Is this normal? (Note that the previous owner has bypassed the RIAA filter and is using PHONO 2 as a line input. That's good - I was going to do exactly the same thing)
3. In the 3 pics below are the orange caps the original electrolytics, or new ones? They look at bit newer so maybe the previous owner upgraded them. Or maybe I am imagining it. I cannot ask him, unfortunately.
Many thanks
1. Can I tell the year of manufacture from the serial number?
2. The RIAA input board has the number 42449-4 and uses BC549 transistors. It is different from the one in the Service Manual which uses BC149s. It appears to be the board from the TR2080. Is this normal? (Note that the previous owner has bypassed the RIAA filter and is using PHONO 2 as a line input. That's good - I was going to do exactly the same thing)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
3. In the 3 pics below are the orange caps the original electrolytics, or new ones? They look at bit newer so maybe the previous owner upgraded them. Or maybe I am imagining it. I cannot ask him, unfortunately.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Many thanks
Your input-card is the original inputcard for the 2075.
The 2075MKII and 2080 had quite different components both as for the capasitors at the RIAA output (0,47uF bipolar instead of the 10uF electrolytics in your amp--sometimes 2,2uF and even more seldom 1uF)
Also the componentvalues around the programselect-electronics ddifferred in a way that makes them difficult to operate properly.
TANDBERG had quite active testing performed on the consumers at those days, and difference in supplier for especially small capacitors seemed to be quite normal.
I see someone believes in a myth that TANDBERG handpicked and matched MIL-SPEC-components for theese radios.
I'm sorry to destroy this myth, but TANDBERG used standard stock components right of the shelf BUT, they did this with GOOD engineered cirquits, with a good result.
Also good headroom was implemented to obtain specs that always were met.
The 2075MKII and 2080 had quite different components both as for the capasitors at the RIAA output (0,47uF bipolar instead of the 10uF electrolytics in your amp--sometimes 2,2uF and even more seldom 1uF)
Also the componentvalues around the programselect-electronics ddifferred in a way that makes them difficult to operate properly.
TANDBERG had quite active testing performed on the consumers at those days, and difference in supplier for especially small capacitors seemed to be quite normal.
I see someone believes in a myth that TANDBERG handpicked and matched MIL-SPEC-components for theese radios.
I'm sorry to destroy this myth, but TANDBERG used standard stock components right of the shelf BUT, they did this with GOOD engineered cirquits, with a good result.
Also good headroom was implemented to obtain specs that always were met.
Make sure to do those round red Roederstien capacitors. Those are also seen in Cyrus amps, and when they fail they typically go short circuit. If the caps are signal coupling then, space permitting, try and source Wima MKS2 capacitors.
Love those old chunky metallised polyester caps with the stripes on em - as a kid i used to think they looked like sweets for some reason! I would say those orange electrolytics are new, the mark seems to be Mitsubishi.
Love those old chunky metallised polyester caps with the stripes on em - as a kid i used to think they looked like sweets for some reason! I would say those orange electrolytics are new, the mark seems to be Mitsubishi.
Starting up a 2075 mothballed for 15 years
I have a Tandberg 2075 receiver that I bought new in late '70s. I stopped using it about 15 years ago and now would like to start using it again. It's been in the stereo rack but not plugged in all this time (no garage/basement/attic storage.) Can I just plug it in and see what happens or should I have it first serviced by a competent shop (if I can find one)?
Some of the above posts recommend certain parts be replaced. What would be an all-inclusive list of what to ask for to bring this back up to premier condition?
Thanks,
Bill
I have a Tandberg 2075 receiver that I bought new in late '70s. I stopped using it about 15 years ago and now would like to start using it again. It's been in the stereo rack but not plugged in all this time (no garage/basement/attic storage.) Can I just plug it in and see what happens or should I have it first serviced by a competent shop (if I can find one)?
Some of the above posts recommend certain parts be replaced. What would be an all-inclusive list of what to ask for to bring this back up to premier condition?
Thanks,
Bill
If you have had it in your rack all theese years, there may not be any problems firing it up.
An all inclusive list will be prepared as requested.
I will make it both for the 2075, 2075MKII and for the 2080.
And also for the 2055.
The 2055 is an receiver that never got what it really deserved of appretiation since Tandberg severely overpriced it and the sales never promoted it in a matter that the customers really got what the receiver really could do.
Fenomenal reception and a really good amplifier, as a matter of fact is the riaa and the power amp identical to the ones in the 2075.
Will prepare those lists, and place them here asap.
Been a while for me to.
Just plug it in, if You are sure You haven't made any shortciquits when soldering in new caps.
Should be good for another 20-30 years yo come.
Good luck
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