Tandberg 3001a battery & switches
Anybody know of a source for the preset memory switches or the battery?
Anybody know of a source for the preset memory switches or the battery?
I'm currently sorting out my 3001 - battery and power caps and mechanical for the tuning.
Batteries are Varta 1.2V 150mAh like these: VARTA|55615201940|BATTERY, PCB MOUNT, 1.2V | Farnell United Kingdom £1.83 from Farnell (plus postage of course).
Not yet bought one but my other, good 3001A already had it replaced and measures 1.3V (i.e. pretty typical voltage for a 1.2V rated cell).
Switches are just switches though.. Not usual for button switches to break as such, probably just need a squirt of switch cleaner and some pressing. If they need replacing, just measure them up and see what you can find.
Batteries are Varta 1.2V 150mAh like these: VARTA|55615201940|BATTERY, PCB MOUNT, 1.2V | Farnell United Kingdom £1.83 from Farnell (plus postage of course).
Not yet bought one but my other, good 3001A already had it replaced and measures 1.3V (i.e. pretty typical voltage for a 1.2V rated cell).
Switches are just switches though.. Not usual for button switches to break as such, probably just need a squirt of switch cleaner and some pressing. If they need replacing, just measure them up and see what you can find.
Switches and batteries for the TPT30XX tuners
I try not to advertise too much for myself, but I have both on stock too.
So any who need such may contact me.
Pay through PayPal, and I ship worldwide.
I try not to advertise too much for myself, but I have both on stock too.
So any who need such may contact me.
Pay through PayPal, and I ship worldwide.
What are other common failures on these? I'm going to replace the power supply caps as they're bulging - replace with something very long life like Vishay.
Do you know what else should be replaced besides these and battery?
Do you know what else should be replaced besides these and battery?
Rarely the storing-system goes "crazy". Then it is the ICs down on the tuningsystem 2 that has gone bad. Also there is a special IC at the Tuningsyste, 1 that makes the tuning voltage to lock at 26V, and since this OP-amp is of a very special type, there is quite difficult to get theese at a reasonable price.
Some problems is seen in the switching between manual tuning and stored stations. Some tweaking may be nessesary.
And ofcourse the backup battery.
If this one has leaked, you may have serious problems, as the acid from the battery eats component-legs and pcb.
Also theese tunesr are full of bad solderjoints, due to large unsupported PCBs.
Especially the Stereodecoder and IF plus the mainboard.
Lots of patience and time to fix theese, and the tuner should be good for another thirty years of service. One should try that with products made today......
I probably forgot one or two things here, but feel free to ask further.
Some problems is seen in the switching between manual tuning and stored stations. Some tweaking may be nessesary.
And ofcourse the backup battery.
If this one has leaked, you may have serious problems, as the acid from the battery eats component-legs and pcb.
Also theese tunesr are full of bad solderjoints, due to large unsupported PCBs.
Especially the Stereodecoder and IF plus the mainboard.
Lots of patience and time to fix theese, and the tuner should be good for another thirty years of service. One should try that with products made today......
I probably forgot one or two things here, but feel free to ask further.
The battery has leaked but not too far (I've removed it) and there are problems switching between manual and stored - looks like just poor contact between the knob and the copper contact at the back..
The needle get's stuck half way across so needs some mechanical attention too.
But it otherwise tunes ok and sounds good but the bulging power caps send horrible crackles through to the output randomly.
I picked up a whole 3001-4 system for £250 about 4 years ago in a special system stand but had been in a shed for a while so a little corrosion and dents on the front of each. The guy said he did have the rare 3005 speakers too but had thrown them away just because the foam surrounds were rotten 🙁 Now it's out of storage and I'm slowly going through each piece, starting with the 3001.
Looks like this:
The needle get's stuck half way across so needs some mechanical attention too.
But it otherwise tunes ok and sounds good but the bulging power caps send horrible crackles through to the output randomly.
I picked up a whole 3001-4 system for £250 about 4 years ago in a special system stand but had been in a shed for a while so a little corrosion and dents on the front of each. The guy said he did have the rare 3005 speakers too but had thrown them away just because the foam surrounds were rotten 🙁 Now it's out of storage and I'm slowly going through each piece, starting with the 3001.
Looks like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Well, I wish You a happy restoration of that set.
And to throw away those speakers.. I'm horrified.
Just let me know if You need any parts. I have several items in store.
As for the tuning-switch-problem, there may be a quite simple fix.
Rarely the problem is with the contact at the back of the tuningknob, but sometimes the filt-washer between the knob and the front is worn away. This causes the knob to get in contact with the front, and thereby muting the signal needed from Your fingers.
There was on some models fitted a fixed resistor in the spot where the sensitivity potmeter should be. Refit a pot there if needed.
Again, good luck with the restoration.
I am one of thees who like to see theese in full use, and to put it into connection to my nick here, it really spells Tendbergsaver; The one hwo saves theese good old Tandberg-stuff.
(Please appologize my bad english, I'm better in fixing theese than to write about it.)
And to throw away those speakers.. I'm horrified.
Just let me know if You need any parts. I have several items in store.
As for the tuning-switch-problem, there may be a quite simple fix.
Rarely the problem is with the contact at the back of the tuningknob, but sometimes the filt-washer between the knob and the front is worn away. This causes the knob to get in contact with the front, and thereby muting the signal needed from Your fingers.
There was on some models fitted a fixed resistor in the spot where the sensitivity potmeter should be. Refit a pot there if needed.
Again, good luck with the restoration.
I am one of thees who like to see theese in full use, and to put it into connection to my nick here, it really spells Tendbergsaver; The one hwo saves theese good old Tandberg-stuff.
(Please appologize my bad english, I'm better in fixing theese than to write about it.)
I'm just in the process of putting my 3001 back together after fixing a few things.
I replaced the PSU caps with some long life Vishays - they are slightly too wide at 25mm diameter so had to push a couple of film caps to an angle and they also have odd snap-in contacts that need to be cut to size.
Err.. I'm not actually sure they needed replacement - what I thought was a blown cap turned out to just be a warped plastic disk on the top! The metal can itself was fine.. oh-well. They may still have been needed replacement as the PSU does get pretty warm, even hot.
Vishay battery was easy to do appart from dismantling the machine to get the boards appart.. Didn't help that I didn't notice the nylon spacers with clips on. Maybe I didn't need to dismantle as much as I did if I'd noticed those..
I take it back about the switches - one had failed by no longer springing back. It still made contact, just wouldn't turn off, which explains why it would suddenly switch to that preset... They are sealed (double sealed as they're dipped in wax!) units with a rubberised conductor that can fall apart so it no longer has the springy-ness to it. Must have been very good quality - gold plated contacts with no signs of corrosion because of the sealing - just a shame they only last 30 years mechanically 🙂
I managed to replace this using a cheap, standard momentary push button from a Sky Plus box I'd stripped (PSU gone but I took the HD and it's a good basic DIY case with a nice LED matrix). It was a real bodge to extend the short wires of my scavanged switch and I took the housing/moving parts of the old switch and glued the lot together to make it all fit - it the appears to work! It has a more solid and definate click to it than the others, which I prefer. Resistance of this switch when closed is much lower so I hope that doesn't matter. Personally I would recommend finding a good set of replacements .
I'll follow up to say if's made much difference...
I replaced the PSU caps with some long life Vishays - they are slightly too wide at 25mm diameter so had to push a couple of film caps to an angle and they also have odd snap-in contacts that need to be cut to size.
Err.. I'm not actually sure they needed replacement - what I thought was a blown cap turned out to just be a warped plastic disk on the top! The metal can itself was fine.. oh-well. They may still have been needed replacement as the PSU does get pretty warm, even hot.
Vishay battery was easy to do appart from dismantling the machine to get the boards appart.. Didn't help that I didn't notice the nylon spacers with clips on. Maybe I didn't need to dismantle as much as I did if I'd noticed those..
I take it back about the switches - one had failed by no longer springing back. It still made contact, just wouldn't turn off, which explains why it would suddenly switch to that preset... They are sealed (double sealed as they're dipped in wax!) units with a rubberised conductor that can fall apart so it no longer has the springy-ness to it. Must have been very good quality - gold plated contacts with no signs of corrosion because of the sealing - just a shame they only last 30 years mechanically 🙂
I managed to replace this using a cheap, standard momentary push button from a Sky Plus box I'd stripped (PSU gone but I took the HD and it's a good basic DIY case with a nice LED matrix). It was a real bodge to extend the short wires of my scavanged switch and I took the housing/moving parts of the old switch and glued the lot together to make it all fit - it the appears to work! It has a more solid and definate click to it than the others, which I prefer. Resistance of this switch when closed is much lower so I hope that doesn't matter. Personally I would recommend finding a good set of replacements .
I'll follow up to say if's made much difference...
Forgot to say:
My stuck tunning dial problem was a mechanical one of the tuning pot being very stiff and the tuning mechanicals not having enough contact friction to overcome it. It's an open pot with a couple of cogs to make it a 2-turn pot. The sleeve of the small cog has cracked and so expanded slightly which was siezing it up. Had to take the unit out to inspect it and I rubbed the sleeve down a little with glass paper and greased it up so it's now nice and easy to turn.
My stuck tunning dial problem was a mechanical one of the tuning pot being very stiff and the tuning mechanicals not having enough contact friction to overcome it. It's an open pot with a couple of cogs to make it a 2-turn pot. The sleeve of the small cog has cracked and so expanded slightly which was siezing it up. Had to take the unit out to inspect it and I rubbed the sleeve down a little with glass paper and greased it up so it's now nice and easy to turn.
Well... success with what I did but now revealing other problems.
The new power supply caps solved the horrid random crackles and fizzes. The switch fix means that it now doesn't suddenly jump to a preset. The battery fix hasn't made much difference in that it's now showing other problems.
The problems are:
1) It won't switch from preset to manual tuning now whereas it did before..
2) When presets are working (doesn't always want to complete the store procedure) it stores that station accross ALL presets.
3) Mute circuit doesn't work even though the switch does light up sometimes (maybe the pot needs cleaning and that's all, could be stuck on 0 muting? ).
4) The sticking tuning dial was because of a crack in the nylon sheath in the mechanical part of the tuning pot. In fixing this (sanding, polishing and greasing) the cog split and fell off when I was turning it back and forth so quick to get the grease working. So with some glue and some slightly mashed up gear teeth I got it working again but it needs a little run up to get past new sticking points (where the split in the cog is).
So.. basically with a bit of fidling I can get it in manual mode and it works well.
And it sounds superb! Oddly it sounds better than the fully working 3001A I have, from memory - maybe my audio memory is bad or maybe it is better aligned or it's the Vishay caps in the power supply? Stereo seems wider and the sound more ... "tactile" .
The new power supply caps solved the horrid random crackles and fizzes. The switch fix means that it now doesn't suddenly jump to a preset. The battery fix hasn't made much difference in that it's now showing other problems.
The problems are:
1) It won't switch from preset to manual tuning now whereas it did before..
2) When presets are working (doesn't always want to complete the store procedure) it stores that station accross ALL presets.
3) Mute circuit doesn't work even though the switch does light up sometimes (maybe the pot needs cleaning and that's all, could be stuck on 0 muting? ).
4) The sticking tuning dial was because of a crack in the nylon sheath in the mechanical part of the tuning pot. In fixing this (sanding, polishing and greasing) the cog split and fell off when I was turning it back and forth so quick to get the grease working. So with some glue and some slightly mashed up gear teeth I got it working again but it needs a little run up to get past new sticking points (where the split in the cog is).
So.. basically with a bit of fidling I can get it in manual mode and it works well.
And it sounds superb! Oddly it sounds better than the fully working 3001A I have, from memory - maybe my audio memory is bad or maybe it is better aligned or it's the Vishay caps in the power supply? Stereo seems wider and the sound more ... "tactile" .
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