Jordan's observations are right in line with what I have noticed so far with playing around with these speakers, and his comments make a lot of sense when you think about it.
The speakers do sound different when moved away from the wall and actually sound better on certain recordings. I desire a happy medium between against the wall and out a bit, but my fear is that I will start tweaking to compromise rather than improve. But I am willing to spend the time to find out in order to learn somthing. I still need to re-measure, though. Hopefully this weekend.
By the way, I never thought I would see the day I heard from someone in Antarctic. I would love to see it someday.
Doug
The speakers do sound different when moved away from the wall and actually sound better on certain recordings. I desire a happy medium between against the wall and out a bit, but my fear is that I will start tweaking to compromise rather than improve. But I am willing to spend the time to find out in order to learn somthing. I still need to re-measure, though. Hopefully this weekend.
By the way, I never thought I would see the day I heard from someone in Antarctic. I would love to see it someday.
Doug
Taperwood said:By the way, I never thought I would see the day I heard from someone in Antarctic. I would love to see it someday.
That's two of us.
I can play my hi-fi as loud as I want, but postage rates are a bitch. 😉Taperwood said:By the way, I never thought I would see the day I heard from someone in Antarctic. I would love to see it someday.
That was actually one of my first thoughts; that it must cost as much to ship some drivers to you as the drivers themselves.
Where are you exactly? I love maps and would like to look it up.
Doug
Where are you exactly? I love maps and would like to look it up.
Doug
Um, not British Antarctic Territory.Taperwood said:Where are you exactly?
A little north of there.
You'd need to modify your drivers with snow cones
Taperwood, Dumbasses reference sounds good. I believe the temptation may be there to attempt to equalise the on axis response, and this may be worth a try. However, as they stand listening a little off axis and leaving the response as is may prove the better blend of total combined output, unless your room happens to be acoustically dead. Also, too far off axis and you may lose your top end altogether.

Taperwood, Dumbasses reference sounds good. I believe the temptation may be there to attempt to equalise the on axis response, and this may be worth a try. However, as they stand listening a little off axis and leaving the response as is may prove the better blend of total combined output, unless your room happens to be acoustically dead. Also, too far off axis and you may lose your top end altogether.
Dumbass said:Um, not British Antarctic Territory.
A little north of there.
Hmmm.. Falkland's?
Still pretty remote and still something I would like to see someday.
lndm said:You'd need to modify your drivers with snow cones![]()
Taperwood, Dumbasses reference sounds good. I believe the temptation may be there to attempt to equalise the on axis response, and this may be worth a try. However, as they stand listening a little off axis and leaving the response as is may prove the better blend of total combined output, unless your room happens to be acoustically dead. Also, too far off axis and you may lose your top end altogether.
Well, I'm probably closer to audiofool than audiophile, but these are not normal speakers 🙂. I don't want to build them up into something they are not, but off axis response appears to give up very little. Moving your position from side to side appears to make little difference in the soundstage other than slight shifting of the center. That's the reason I want to measure them, to get a better picture of what I'm hearing.
I'm hoping to measure them in-room with as much room damping as I can manage and also maybe outside in a quasi-anechoic setting. Not perfect, but we have to start somewhere. Hopefully sometime this weekend.
Doug
Zero One's post in this thread might be useful:
http://fullrangedriver.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=615
http://fullrangedriver.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=615
Thanks Pete,
Some interesting tweaks. Some I can't do, like beveling the back baffle. I've already got Cat 5 internally (which reminds me of a question I had that I will ask in a new thread).
I've already played around with the front baffle and have it where it sounds best to me.
I tried damping the outsides of the cabinets and could not get a better sound, different but not better.
I've heard of people putting lightbulbs, pingpong balls, etc. in front of the driver to change the sound, so no end of tweaks there to try, I guess.
Doug
Some interesting tweaks. Some I can't do, like beveling the back baffle. I've already got Cat 5 internally (which reminds me of a question I had that I will ask in a new thread).
I've already played around with the front baffle and have it where it sounds best to me.
I tried damping the outsides of the cabinets and could not get a better sound, different but not better.
I've heard of people putting lightbulbs, pingpong balls, etc. in front of the driver to change the sound, so no end of tweaks there to try, I guess.
Doug
At the end of the day, I think many people will submit to a little passive electrical EQ. Despite the drawbacks, it is definately better than a harshness that you can't relax with, I think.
Good luck with your measurements.
Good luck with your measurements.
an idea to try
initially when trying to tame the midrange with the redbacks I found making a grille that covers all bu the very centre of the drivers centre cap helped a huge amount, my subsequent modes rendered this uneccesary, but it works well.
I used some open weave black non slip matting, its very cehap and most hardware stores should have it. You just make a ring ourt of thin MDF or ply an inch or so bigger than the whole driver, with a cutout the size of the driver, then attach the material to the ring with a circular hole in the middle, if you need more damping try two thicknesses.
An extra tip, place a ring of little compressed foam pads around the junction where the centre cap joins the cone. The pads are the little one people use to put under ornaments so they don't scatch cupboards etc, once again cheap and easy to get, they are self stick. My redbacks responded very well to this but I forgot to mention it in the tweaks I posted.
Hope this helps, I can say that before my tweaking I was all ready to try the notch filter trick but it is now totally fine without it, so don't give up.
initially when trying to tame the midrange with the redbacks I found making a grille that covers all bu the very centre of the drivers centre cap helped a huge amount, my subsequent modes rendered this uneccesary, but it works well.
I used some open weave black non slip matting, its very cehap and most hardware stores should have it. You just make a ring ourt of thin MDF or ply an inch or so bigger than the whole driver, with a cutout the size of the driver, then attach the material to the ring with a circular hole in the middle, if you need more damping try two thicknesses.
An extra tip, place a ring of little compressed foam pads around the junction where the centre cap joins the cone. The pads are the little one people use to put under ornaments so they don't scatch cupboards etc, once again cheap and easy to get, they are self stick. My redbacks responded very well to this but I forgot to mention it in the tweaks I posted.
Hope this helps, I can say that before my tweaking I was all ready to try the notch filter trick but it is now totally fine without it, so don't give up.
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