Talk me out of it: 2-way active horn build

Horn: B&C ME75
Driver: B&C DE75PTN
Woofer: SB Acoustics SB34NRX75-6 in 4.0 cu ft sealed box
Amp/DSP: Hypex FA252

Application: typical living room, ~250 sq ft with 8ft ceilings, listening distance ~6ft
Typical listening levels: 80-85db
Crossover point: 800hz 2nd order LR
 
Horn: B&C ME75
Driver: B&C DE75PTN
Woofer: SB Acoustics SB34NRX75-6 in 4.0 cu ft sealed box
Amp/DSP: Hypex FA252

Application: typical living room, ~250 sq ft with 8ft ceilings, listening distance ~6ft
Typical listening levels: 80-85db
Crossover point: 800hz 2nd order LR
Thats waaaay overkill for your use at those levels. 2” CD will struggle to get useful response above 15k

I‘d look at Faital Pro 1.4” drivers and their horns mate together very well

Use it with the 12PR320 ported and tuned to 45hz
 
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I think I would use a higher sensitive 12” to have something to work with in the DSP. Also I see no need for 250 watt amp to the HF, you might only need 5-10 watt. Consider two amp modules of different power rating. Still I would have a passive HPF and LPAD for protection and noise reduction.
From my understanding, larger horns need EQ at higher frequencies to correct the natural roll off. The built-in DSP is my main reason for wanting to use the Hypex plate amps (I also like the sound of their amps). And I agree, 250W is absolutely more power than the woofer needs, let alone the horn. I want the ability to apply EQ to both the horn and woofer separately.

Thats waaaay overkill for your use at those levels. 2” CD will struggle to get useful response above 15k

I‘d look at Faital Pro 1.4” drivers and their horns mate together very well

Use it with the 12PR320 ported and tuned to 45hz
There seems to always be a tradeoff between sensitivity and bass extension in even the large (12 and 15in) woofers. Are there other disadvantages to using a less sensitive woofer if available amplifier power is not an issue?

Asking from a place of curiosity and a desire to learn, I appreciate your feedback and insight.
 
Critically damped ‘hifi’ drivers have a sensitivity curve that’s not linear with complex music…..they don’t come alive until higher output levels while their pro device alternatives reveal their efficiency early on. Again, from experience and outside of the camp where folks assume everything can be measured…….but yet no one has an answer for forum questions that come from members dealing with exact problem…….why does my speaker sound dead until?…or help choosing drivers that reveal detail at low volume.
 
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Horn: B&C ME75
Driver: B&C DE75PTN
Woofer: SB Acoustics SB34NRX75-6 in 4.0 cu ft sealed box
Amp/DSP: Hypex FA252

Application: typical living room, ~250 sq ft with 8ft ceilings, listening distance ~6ft
Typical listening levels: 80-85db
Crossover point: 800hz 2nd order LR

You have already chosen a lot and the "spec" is not yet clear to me (which is OK, only you need to know). Each person would do something different because priorities are different.

Seems you have vcad skills so think it through some...use @AllenB's framework as a guide.

If you are making a 2-way with a 12, you could do much worse than spending time reading Wayne's FAQ. Alternatively, in the true spirit of talking you out of it, look hard at his kits--a 4ft3 12 is about exactly the 3-pi spec (upgrade woofer if you can swing it). FWIW.
 
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@grindstone Thank you for the information, I’ll come back once I’ve read through all of it.

As for the spec, <30Hz extension in room with minimal distortion (hence the large woofer). I’d ideally like to do it with a sealed box and use DSP to bring the extension lower, since there’s plenty of power available. Treble extension above 18kHz is less of a concern since I can’t hear above 16kHz.
Critically damped ‘hifi’ drivers have a sensitivity curve that’s not linear with complex music…..they don’t come alive until higher output levels while their pro device alternatives reveal their efficiency early on. Again, from experience and outside of the camp where folks assume everything can be measured…….but yet no one has an answer for forum questions that come from members dealing with exact problem…….why does my speaker sound dead until?…or help choosing drivers that reveal detail at low volume.

Thank you for that explanation
 
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Hi Calipilot227
For the horn I would suggest you to take a look at all the great measurements on this page https://www.mtg-designs.com/tips-tricks-tests/waveguide-shootout
I would choose a horn that have a smooth directivity. For mating with a 12" something like Celestion H1-9040P mayby. Difficult to find a horn which is smooth from 800Hz to 20kHz

Question: Why go sealed with a system like this .... you will be missing bass volume ...
And why a pro compression driver and large horn, if your listening level is only 80 dB? ..... This can easily be achieved with a dome tweeter in a waveguide ... maybe 2.5 way with 2 x 8" vented and a large waveguide og even better 4 x 6.5" and a 6.5 inch waveguide .... or a smaller and more smooth horn and compression driver ...
 
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And why a pro compression driver and large horn, if your listening level is only 80 dB? ..... This can easily be achieved with a dome tweeter in a waveguide ..
The sound of my 1.4" CD is so undistorted. Why do anything else? I've heard domes in the 5 ways on the sidewalk of RentalAccessCenter down by the grocery & dollar store. Fizz fizz buzz buzz. Why would I want one of those? Yes the CD will go to 70 watts, the 2way to 500w. I prefer to listen at 1/8 watt (up to 50). The package dispersion is so good the sound is the same all over my room.
As far as cost, lots of PA speakers blow the woofer, fewer the CD. On ebay ~$140 for two A prefix CD and 2 horns. Per calipilot I would not use a 2" CD. 1.4" covers to 1000 hz fine, you can use a 12" up to that,even many 15". Plenty of 12" and 15" do not break up until well above 1000 hz.
There are 1.4" CD that do not roll off until 16 khz. See eminence N314T-8, B&C DE60-TN. I cannot hear above 14 khz so above that does not matter to me. 99% of US males over age 12 have a lower hearing boundary IMHO.
 
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