Oh, and I supposed we just see the first C of your CRC PSU 😉Having build the very capable F6 I was left wondering (more like fantasizing) about how I could improve this magnificent amplifier.
Fortunately I'm not the first one here having this crazy ambition, so I soon gathered a list of improvement candidates.
This is where my problems started. I am educated in the field of software so i quickly realized that I am in over my head when it comes to electronics.
However, this has never stopped me when creating software so I quickly decided that I'm not going to let it stop me this time either.
Having considered the options I have chosen to start with the power supply.
After gathering tips and suggestions from this forum I have settled on a dual mono power supply in a separate box.
So far I have gathered:
Two sets of Nelson's Bipolar Power Supply
Two Toroidy transformers
A soft start board from the DIY Audio Store
A Pesante 2U from Modushop
I have attached a picture of the layout I'm considering.
I welcome suggestions to this setup and anything that might make it better will be considered.
Thanks in advance.
Oh, by the way, I could use a suggestion for a nice power button for the front.
I am beginning to change my mind. Maybe I should add go for CLCrC where the r is the umbilical and the last C is in the amp chassis.
I have another 2U Pesante and that way i could make each channel PSU in a seperate box. Would there be any downside to doing it this way?
I have another 2U Pesante and that way i could make each channel PSU in a seperate box. Would there be any downside to doing it this way?
Cost, added complexity, but I'd do it. You can fit larger transformers for better regulation, more capacitors and a better layout. You could then easily include a pair of https://evotronix.eu/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/saligny-universal-gan-datasheet.pdf for exceptional rectification, and you get to choose cable and connectors for the power between the chassis. It's got to be done, you know it makes sense Rodney 🙂Would there be any downside to doing it this way?
Large coils of wire + switching = voltage spikes! Perhaps a little managed soft start and shutdown is in order to prevent the voltage spikes?
I used 2 Hammond 159ZJ in my first watt clone power supply. Ripple went from 70mv to 3mv. I can only describe the outcome as a totally black background with better bass.
What I see are very well sized, overdimensioned components. The powersupply PCB can be seperated in two halves and a coil fitted. You could even replache the resistors by smaller coils, instead of a single large one.
Power supplies are an area of dimishing returns. For example, you can get away with two 4700uF caps per channel, like most commercial units of similar power have. If you increase this value, at first, like doubling capacity, you get audible improvement. The next time you double up, you will have a hard time to find any program material that improves. Then, any further increase does nothing but add weight and cost.
Think about putting some components upright, instead of flat down on the bottom or lifting them up. I would see no problem fitting two extra inductors to your case. Just keep the "dirty" current to one side and the clean output to the other of the rear panel.
Using two cases may give you problems like hum that are hard to cure. No good idea IMO.
Such an inductor like pictured can be used. Single or multiple smaller ones with thinner wire. No need to get huge transformers. They will reduce ripple impresively and flaten the voltage on the amp side. I would like to see some foil capacitors of maybe 1 uF in the supply. They can be soldered to the back of the PCB for easy fitting.
Power supplies are an area of dimishing returns. For example, you can get away with two 4700uF caps per channel, like most commercial units of similar power have. If you increase this value, at first, like doubling capacity, you get audible improvement. The next time you double up, you will have a hard time to find any program material that improves. Then, any further increase does nothing but add weight and cost.
Think about putting some components upright, instead of flat down on the bottom or lifting them up. I would see no problem fitting two extra inductors to your case. Just keep the "dirty" current to one side and the clean output to the other of the rear panel.
Using two cases may give you problems like hum that are hard to cure. No good idea IMO.
Such an inductor like pictured can be used. Single or multiple smaller ones with thinner wire. No need to get huge transformers. They will reduce ripple impresively and flaten the voltage on the amp side. I would like to see some foil capacitors of maybe 1 uF in the supply. They can be soldered to the back of the PCB for easy fitting.
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Use separate bridge rectifiers for each winding of power transformer.parallell power supply caps .joing the two separate supplies at the last output power supply cap. So you get + 0 -. Then feed your amp from this supply output. Parallelling supply caps is better sonically than crc. Use neotect upocc silver if you got the coin.upocc copper also gd. Dont use pcb for power supply.hard wire with above wire. These details all improve your amp sonically.
Here is my revised plan. I'm still calling it the "Just a Little" version.
Two 2U Pesante with one channel CLC PSU each and Nelsons bipolar C in the chassis.
This should end up making it a CLCRC dual mono thingy.
What is left you might ask? I still have not found a suitable power button.
Parts should arrive next week so i guess ill do metal work in the weekend.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Two 2U Pesante with one channel CLC PSU each and Nelsons bipolar C in the chassis.
This should end up making it a CLCRC dual mono thingy.
What is left you might ask? I still have not found a suitable power button.
Parts should arrive next week so i guess ill do metal work in the weekend.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Attachments
Why do you want to change the high quality rectifiers of the power supply for these cheap bridges? I had some of these blow through, one taking out two expensive amps with them, because they developed a short and feed AC to one rail. Even as they were rated 45A, many times the current used. I trust single diodes on their own heat sink much more today.
Also, why remove the resistors? It would be better to put the coils near the secondary supply near the amp modules inside their case. Coils store power, keeping them near the consumer may be a better idea. So you get C-R-C-L-C
Last, your could finish the amp now, burn it in (do all adjustments) and simply add the coils later. Hammond can have some serious delivery time.
Also, why remove the resistors? It would be better to put the coils near the secondary supply near the amp modules inside their case. Coils store power, keeping them near the consumer may be a better idea. So you get C-R-C-L-C
Last, your could finish the amp now, burn it in (do all adjustments) and simply add the coils later. Hammond can have some serious delivery time.
One of the things i wanted to accomplish is to move the transformers out of the amp chassis to eliminate any possible interference with the ones on the F6 boards.
As for the rectifiers? I have no clue, i just assumed that being in the kit, they were the preferred option.
As for the rectifiers? I have no clue, i just assumed that being in the kit, they were the preferred option.
If you have the universal PSU with the individual rectifiers you may as well put some fast rectifiers or schottky’s WITH snubbers (icing on the cake). The external CLC with 2nd chassis dual CRC will be amazing.
The next level up will be 2 donuts + 2 CLC supplies. But your CLC split off to 2 CRC should get you pretty close I think.
Here’s a consideration. Will the umbilical cable between the boxes be fixed or detachable? Do you want the ability to make a 2nd amp and use the same “raw” power supply in the future? If so, make it detachable.
I’m sure everyone on this thread will want to see your finished build. Show the amp porn!
The next level up will be 2 donuts + 2 CLC supplies. But your CLC split off to 2 CRC should get you pretty close I think.
Here’s a consideration. Will the umbilical cable between the boxes be fixed or detachable? Do you want the ability to make a 2nd amp and use the same “raw” power supply in the future? If so, make it detachable.
I’m sure everyone on this thread will want to see your finished build. Show the amp porn!
Im going for detachable PSU. Each PSU box should be able to supply two channels, but with the option to use one PSU per channel.
Im going to use Neutrik NC4 for connecting.
I have two 5U deluxe amp chassis and this way i will be able to A/B test the F6 vs whatever i might build next (probably the Aleph J i have the boards for).
Im going to use Neutrik NC4 for connecting.
I have two 5U deluxe amp chassis and this way i will be able to A/B test the F6 vs whatever i might build next (probably the Aleph J i have the boards for).
A magnetic fields strength is reduced by the power of three with distance. See it as comming from a point in space and being distributed sphericaly. So the little magnetic field the coils may have, can be ignored if there is a few centimeters distance to sensitive parts.
To get a feeling for such effects, you may use a small coil and connect it to the line in an amp. Then move the coil near wires with AC current. You can hear from the connected speaker how the 50Hz sound is changing. If you have a certain him problem, re-routing a wire just a centimeter can be the difference of audible hum and silence.
Such square recifier bridges are the most simple ones you can get. They are nothing special at all!
To get a feeling for such effects, you may use a small coil and connect it to the line in an amp. Then move the coil near wires with AC current. You can hear from the connected speaker how the 50Hz sound is changing. If you have a certain him problem, re-routing a wire just a centimeter can be the difference of audible hum and silence.
Such square recifier bridges are the most simple ones you can get. They are nothing special at all!
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