TABAQ TL for Tangband

I knocked my Tabaq's together today, but my drivers and stuff won't be here until next week. They're a bit rough, but good enough for a first experiment. (I've only 'built' OB's up to this point)

Driver will be the W4-1052SD.

Regarding the port CSA, original, from the front is 10cm(W)x1.6cm(H). Making a port CSA of 16cm^2. If the baffle becomes wider, the roof of the port must come lower, if the 16cm^2 CSA is to be maintained.

Alternatively, the sides of the port could be "shimmed" with thin stock to reduce the port width to 10cm again.

HTH

J.
 
Regarding the port CSA, original, from the front is 10cm(W)x1.6cm(H). Making a port CSA of 16cm^2. If the baffle becomes wider, the roof of the port must come lower, if the 16cm^2 CSA is to be maintained.

Alternatively, the sides of the port could be "shimmed" with thin stock to reduce the port width to 10cm again.

HTH

J.

Thanks for this, I see my mistake now. I didn't understand that the Height of the port was part of the c.s.(!).

I think I might have to scrap these. :(
 
Thanks for this, I see my mistake now. I didn't understand that the Height of the port was part of the c.s.(!).

I think I might have to scrap these. :(

No need to scrap the whole thing!

This is internal, so, just add small blocks on the sides to lower the area before you close the last side. Just adjust until you get the right area and length. It won't show when all is glued and painted.
 
Chris post 1870: Make the left shelf maller and the right shelf wider thereby movimg the port to the left to obtain the right line.

Your method of measuring the lenght of the port is correc.

Bjørn


Thanks for coming back to me Bjørn, it's very much appreciated.

Sorry for all the questions and lack of understanding, but should I reduce the left side of the shelf by a particular amount? Is there a minimum size it should be?



Thanks

Chris
 
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Regarding the port CSA, original, from the front is 10cm(W)x1.6cm(H). Making a port CSA of 16cm^2. If the baffle becomes wider, the roof of the port must come lower, if the 16cm^2 CSA is to be maintained.

Alternatively, the sides of the port could be "shimmed" with thin stock to reduce the port width to 10cm again.

HTH

J.

Jerms,

At what point does the roof height of the port get too small to work correctly?


Chris
 
No need to scrap the whole thing!

This is internal, so, just add small blocks on the sides to lower the area before you close the last side. Just adjust until you get the right area and length. It won't show when all is glued and painted.

Thanks, yeah I can do that easily enough and at least see how I like the sound of these speakers. I'm just not that happy with how the build turned out, and now I also have an error to fix.
 
Jerms,

At what point does the roof height of the port get too small to work correctly?


Chris

No idea, though I wouldn't want to go much smaller than the current Tabaq port.
I guess it's possible to run some calculations as it's flow of fluids across surfaces but it's all rather too complex for my head to take in at my age.

As a guess, it'll work pretty well to a point where boundary layers interfere, then flow/propagation will encounter much larger resistances.

J.
 
No idea, though I wouldn't want to go much smaller than the current Tabaq port.
I guess it's possible to run some calculations as it's flow of fluids across surfaces but it's all rather too complex for my head to take in at my age.

As a guess, it'll work pretty well to a point where boundary layers interfere, then flow/propagation will encounter much larger resistances.

J.

Thanks Jerms,

You obviously have far more understanding of these things than me!

I'll stick with the original 16 cm2, it's working beautifully in my current Tabaq's!


Cheers


Chris
 
No idea, though I wouldn't want to go much smaller than the current Tabaq port.
I guess it's possible to run some calculations as it's flow of fluids across surfaces but it's all rather too complex for my head to take in at my age.

As a guess, it'll work pretty well to a point where boundary layers interfere, then flow/propagation will encounter much larger resistances.

J.

Thanks Jerms,

You obviously have far more understanding of these things than me!

I'll stick with the original 16 cm2, it's working beautifully in my current Tabaq's!


Cheers


Chris
 
Hi,

I built a pair of folded Tabaq's for some mark audio CHR70's about 3 years ago and I never managed to get an exciting sound from them. The bass response was always average at best and I had to really crank the amp (topping TP60) to get any reasonable volume from them. They're currently sidelined by some Iloud micro monitors but I'm not keen on the look of the ilouds and feel the Tabaqs must be capable of a decent sound.
I remember having a bit of a play with wadding at the time but can't remember what I tried.
Has anyone got any advise as to what my issue might be and what I can try to improve them?

Thanks
 
Lack of bass in the TABAQs usually means there is a loss of pressure inside the enclosure.

There could be a leak inside the folded pattern, or with the outside shell.

Unless you are expecting 30Hz thumping techno bass, which the TABAQs won't do.

They should reach 55Hz easily, depending on the driver and positioning.

You could make sure and resolve this if you made some measurements.
 
Sorry for the stupid question but what's the difference in sound between the original TABAQ and the updated version proposed by robskillz. I was starting my build of the original TABAQs and by accident saw the updated version. Now I am trying to figure out if it is worth it to modify my build (I have the pieces already cut).
 
Yesterday I decided to change the drivers with an unusual ones. I've ordered two Monacor SPX-30M. They are 3" drivers with Fs of 100Hz and Qts of 0.71. I could not find much written about them in the internet but the price is very good and the specs look promising. My previous choice was drivers from Logitech Z5300's satellites. They pretty much look like TB W3-594SB, but are a bit smaller and I am not sure that the specs are the same. And finally the monacors look a bit better than logitech's drivers. Do you think I made a good choice? I think I'll seriously consider making the change in the design of the box.
 
I built mine recently with a used pair of W4-1052SD's. The total cost of the project was around $75. I used the suggested 1mH/3.9Ohm BSC. They do sound quite amazing, all things considered. I made a number of mistakes, but learned a lot and had fun. They don't look great, but decent enough for my wife, who is picky about decor etc. I painted the fronts black to make the errors less obvious. :)

Good project, thanks for the help here.
 

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