The square port gets mighty thin. Stretch it across the 4" face and you end up with a height of 5/32".
Just for grins, here's a drawing of both the round and square port versions. I took the liberty of putting a base on the bottom to both bring the drivers up closer to ear height and to make less prone to being toppled. Maybe a nice plinth is in order here.
I've got a pair of these kicking around. I was thinking of an unfolded BIB for 'em. I like this better.
Thanks Svein.
Just for grins, here's a drawing of both the round and square port versions. I took the liberty of putting a base on the bottom to both bring the drivers up closer to ear height and to make less prone to being toppled. Maybe a nice plinth is in order here.
I've got a pair of these kicking around. I was thinking of an unfolded BIB for 'em. I like this better.
Thanks Svein.
In line with what sreten had mentioned, I have order some different 3 and 4 inch speakers. I want to measure them myself and make different enclosures for them to hear what I like better. I also want to play around with fast low frequency chart drops and slow drops as well. I just don't know enough about designing speakers to decide from only a chart.
The box I have above is 36" high and 5x6" inside measurement the port openings are 1.025", but it is for the specs given on the fostex site for a fe127e.
The box I have above is 36" high and 5x6" inside measurement the port openings are 1.025", but it is for the specs given on the fostex site for a fe127e.
Fe127...
I see you just passed to another Driver,but some years I played around and try d out different things with the Fostex Fe127.And since you asked for Experiences...Although I never used worksheeds or other computing stuff.(in this Design)
First time I read about them in an German Speakerbuilder-Magazine called K&T.So I bought two of them,put them in a BR box of 17 Liters
tuned them to around 53Hz.I soldered a serial element with L=1,5mH and R=10 ohms (L against R in parallel) and listened to it for some Weeks on a smaller Tube/Mos-amp.Conclusion:as long as you listen to Jazz-trio´s and similar music its o.k. but when it comes to some serious stuff be it big orchestra or Rock or Big Band then it became liveless and compressed...I know it is only a 5" but even in a small room at low listening levels.So I was not satisfied and try´d out a version with 2 drivers on each speaker.one Driver was used to correct the baffle Step and the other runs full range without the correcting element from the first version.As a starting point to filter the other driver I used the 1.5mH since the effect off the single-driver correcting element (LR)was mainly the baffle step.Clearly this resulted in a better powerhandling and thus lesser compression.But now the sound became kind off muddy or washed out.So that wasnt a better solution.
Then I build a so called Voigt Pipe with a length of 1,80m(~70")without that kind of BR-finish one can see in other TQWP Designs-simply let the Opening in the same square size you have at the end of the Pipe-Driver is sitting~90cm(~35") from the bottom.Than I played with damping and than again with the opening width(using some pieces of wood).In the End...this was just fine:clear,easy,loud enough to listen to.
I hope this gives some starting Ideas.At Sunday when I´m back home I could post some fotos...if your interested in?
Good luck Stefan
I see you just passed to another Driver,but some years I played around and try d out different things with the Fostex Fe127.And since you asked for Experiences...Although I never used worksheeds or other computing stuff.(in this Design)
First time I read about them in an German Speakerbuilder-Magazine called K&T.So I bought two of them,put them in a BR box of 17 Liters
tuned them to around 53Hz.I soldered a serial element with L=1,5mH and R=10 ohms (L against R in parallel) and listened to it for some Weeks on a smaller Tube/Mos-amp.Conclusion:as long as you listen to Jazz-trio´s and similar music its o.k. but when it comes to some serious stuff be it big orchestra or Rock or Big Band then it became liveless and compressed...I know it is only a 5" but even in a small room at low listening levels.So I was not satisfied and try´d out a version with 2 drivers on each speaker.one Driver was used to correct the baffle Step and the other runs full range without the correcting element from the first version.As a starting point to filter the other driver I used the 1.5mH since the effect off the single-driver correcting element (LR)was mainly the baffle step.Clearly this resulted in a better powerhandling and thus lesser compression.But now the sound became kind off muddy or washed out.So that wasnt a better solution.
Then I build a so called Voigt Pipe with a length of 1,80m(~70")without that kind of BR-finish one can see in other TQWP Designs-simply let the Opening in the same square size you have at the end of the Pipe-Driver is sitting~90cm(~35") from the bottom.Than I played with damping and than again with the opening width(using some pieces of wood).In the End...this was just fine:clear,easy,loud enough to listen to.
I hope this gives some starting Ideas.At Sunday when I´m back home I could post some fotos...if your interested in?
Good luck Stefan
Re: Fe127...
That is helpful and would love to see some photos. What you have done is similar to what I plan on doing. Experiment with some 'live' drivers and boxes to see what I like to hear and then build off of that. Then I would feel more comfortable spending higher dollar amounts on equipment.
That is helpful and would love to see some photos. What you have done is similar to what I plan on doing. Experiment with some 'live' drivers and boxes to see what I like to hear and then build off of that. Then I would feel more comfortable spending higher dollar amounts on equipment.
Baumi said:
Re: Fe127...
I have the same experience but I use FE167E, the secret of a good full range speakers is in the cabinet design to get good sound. I didn' go down that direction instead I switch approach to speaker design.
In the end a good pair of speakers should be able to handle all kind of music well.
Baumi said:
I have the same experience but I use FE167E, the secret of a good full range speakers is in the cabinet design to get good sound. I didn' go down that direction instead I switch approach to speaker design.
In the end a good pair of speakers should be able to handle all kind of music well.
Good Morning lepomis,
in the time I was lucky to have a DIY-Speaker-Dealer around who had a pair of cabinets without a Driver collecting dust and with some scraches on the finish.Since they where just some kind of size I often like to use I bought them for a small penny combined them with a tunable BR and installed a changeable part of the front to be able to try out different drivers.Voilá-what I want to say is:ask your neighbor,friend,dealer or who ever or build yourself this kind of try-out-speaker and then go on to experiment.After all:the main Part of Fun is,to find out what you like...
The only Thing really useful for a beginning is a small Program for at least some BR tuning(you can find freeware all over the net) and some numbers on the table-kind of how many inches of a Line(Transmission line or even all its tapered sisters and brothers-it doesn't have to be perfectly exact-only some physical basics) will give you what frequency resonance.
This helps to gain some relationship between your perception and your work in progress...
Stefan
in the time I was lucky to have a DIY-Speaker-Dealer around who had a pair of cabinets without a Driver collecting dust and with some scraches on the finish.Since they where just some kind of size I often like to use I bought them for a small penny combined them with a tunable BR and installed a changeable part of the front to be able to try out different drivers.Voilá-what I want to say is:ask your neighbor,friend,dealer or who ever or build yourself this kind of try-out-speaker and then go on to experiment.After all:the main Part of Fun is,to find out what you like...
The only Thing really useful for a beginning is a small Program for at least some BR tuning(you can find freeware all over the net) and some numbers on the table-kind of how many inches of a Line(Transmission line or even all its tapered sisters and brothers-it doesn't have to be perfectly exact-only some physical basics) will give you what frequency resonance.
This helps to gain some relationship between your perception and your work in progress...
Stefan
I like that idea about the changeable front. I even thought about one that would let me easily move the driver in the vertical direction as well.
My drivers should be here next week and I have been scavenging some suitable material for boxes.
My drivers should be here next week and I have been scavenging some suitable material for boxes.
Baumi said:Good Morning lepomis,
in the time I was lucky to have a DIY-Speaker-Dealer around who had a pair of cabinets without a Driver collecting dust and with some scraches on the finish.Since they where just some kind of size I often like to use I bought them for a small penny combined them with a tunable BR and installed a changeable part of the front to be able to try out different drivers.Voilá-what I want to say is:ask your neighbor,friend,dealer or who ever or build yourself this kind of try-out-speaker and then go on to experiment.After all:the main Part of Fun is,to find out what you like...
The only Thing really useful for a beginning is a small Program for at least some BR tuning(you can find freeware all over the net) and some numbers on the table-kind of how many inches of a Line(Transmission line or even all its tapered sisters and brothers-it doesn't have to be perfectly exact-only some physical basics) will give you what frequency resonance.
This helps to gain some relationship between your perception and your work in progress...
Stefan
kristleifur said:
Unless the proposed cabinet is a real horn, I use "Ported Box" to do the basic design. This will work for any TL, straight or tapered and any MLTL, and of course, any ported box!. If the cabinet is folded, I will use "Sections" to confirm that the folding is reasonable. "Sections is needlessly complicated for simple designs.
Bob
A number of enclosures for the CSS FR125 can be found here: http://www.planet10-hifi.com/boxes-CSS.html
Note in particular Jim Griffin's Bipole ML-TL, based on GM ML-TL sims posted here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=672120#post672120
Similar to the TABAQ and Needle, but a lttle larger.
SveinB.
Note in particular Jim Griffin's Bipole ML-TL, based on GM ML-TL sims posted here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=672120#post672120
Similar to the TABAQ and Needle, but a lttle larger.
SveinB.
Svein -
Appreciated but have looked at all published and nothing I've seen works for my fitment situation.
I'm seriously thinking of just adjusting some numbers and keeping volume real close to standard designs and seeing what happens.
I did that with one of the Onken designs and it sounds pretty decent.
Bluto
Appreciated but have looked at all published and nothing I've seen works for my fitment situation.
I'm seriously thinking of just adjusting some numbers and keeping volume real close to standard designs and seeing what happens.
I did that with one of the Onken designs and it sounds pretty decent.
Bluto
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