This is likely a bit of a softball for the seasoned veterans of DIY Audio, but I'm looking for help with making the connections on the following components for a custom outdoor speaker box I'm in progress on - I'm going to be using a mp3 player as my audio source. Based on this question its obvious that this is my first foray into custom audio. I'm most interested in the potentiometer, on/off switch and indicator lamp connections. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Amp: 2x15W @ 4 Ohm TA2024 Class-D Audio Amplifier Board (Part Number: 320-308)
2x15W @ 4 Ohm TA2024 Class-D Audio Amplifier Board 320-308
Speakers: BOSS BRS65 6-1/2" Dual Cone Replacement Speaker (Part Number: 265-378)
BOSS BRS65 6-1/2" Dual Cone Replacement Speaker 265-378
Battery: Panasonic 12V 7.2Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery (Part Number: 140-465)
Panasonic 12V 7.2Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery 140-465
Volume: 50K Audio Taper Stereo Potentiometer 1/4" Shaft (Part Number: 023-650)
On/Off: SPST Heavy Duty Toggle Switch (Part Number: 060-370)
SPST Heavy Duty Toggle Switch 060-370
Power Indicator: 12V Green Indicator Lamp (Part Number: 070-074)
12V Green Indicator Lamp 070-074
Amp: 2x15W @ 4 Ohm TA2024 Class-D Audio Amplifier Board (Part Number: 320-308)
2x15W @ 4 Ohm TA2024 Class-D Audio Amplifier Board 320-308
Speakers: BOSS BRS65 6-1/2" Dual Cone Replacement Speaker (Part Number: 265-378)
BOSS BRS65 6-1/2" Dual Cone Replacement Speaker 265-378
Battery: Panasonic 12V 7.2Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery (Part Number: 140-465)
Panasonic 12V 7.2Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery 140-465
Volume: 50K Audio Taper Stereo Potentiometer 1/4" Shaft (Part Number: 023-650)
On/Off: SPST Heavy Duty Toggle Switch (Part Number: 060-370)
SPST Heavy Duty Toggle Switch 060-370
Power Indicator: 12V Green Indicator Lamp (Part Number: 070-074)
12V Green Indicator Lamp 070-074
Isn't that Amp kind of weak for outdoors? I'm as new and green as they come, but 15w outdoors? Have you seen the 2 channel 100W Amps from Parts Express?
Another one.
With the potentiometer, here's a quote from your Amp's Q&A section; "you would wire the pot to the input terminal blocks. The input for that would then have to be wired to some RCA jacks or whatever you require for your application."
Hope this helps.
Another one.
With the potentiometer, here's a quote from your Amp's Q&A section; "you would wire the pot to the input terminal blocks. The input for that would then have to be wired to some RCA jacks or whatever you require for your application."
Hope this helps.
Bairda,
This is a good basic project to get familiar with the way things are put together. It will teach you a lot.
For the pot, I suggest you go back and review the "T-Amp Modifications" thread in this class D section. It was very active a few years ago and has plenty of discussion about wiring a pot. This comes up often, so that information should be in several places.
I would also suggest looking through the Boominator thread, as there is a lot of discussion about how to incorporate batteries into a boombox.
You will need to install and wire the battery so that it can be charged. I have mine built with a mains power supply that feeds both a charger and a 12v power supply for the amp. There is a switch that changes between running the amp off the battery and running it off line power, and when in that mode, the battery is charging. You may decide on an additional switch if you have both the solar panels and a line-powered charger. There are lots of options. Just be aware that a battery charging circuit is for charging only and is not good for running an amp. If you want to keep things simple, you can make the battery removable, and use an external charger rather than building one in. That way it's easy to have a spare battery to swap in when the first one runs down.
Speakers should be wired directly from the output terminals from the amp, using wire the size of household electrical cord: 18 gauge or similar. With small speakers, sometimes response can be made more linear with some circuitry either on the input of the amp or between the amp and the speaker, like a crossover. Check if there are recommended baffle-step compensation circuits for your driver.
Be sure to put a fuse between the battery and anything else. It is shorts out, a lead-acid can produce a lot of current and melt wires, etc. I would put the power switch right before the +12v terminal on the amp. hook up the power indicator in parallel to the amp's power inputs, making sure you get the +- correct.
--Buckapound
This is a good basic project to get familiar with the way things are put together. It will teach you a lot.
For the pot, I suggest you go back and review the "T-Amp Modifications" thread in this class D section. It was very active a few years ago and has plenty of discussion about wiring a pot. This comes up often, so that information should be in several places.
I would also suggest looking through the Boominator thread, as there is a lot of discussion about how to incorporate batteries into a boombox.
You will need to install and wire the battery so that it can be charged. I have mine built with a mains power supply that feeds both a charger and a 12v power supply for the amp. There is a switch that changes between running the amp off the battery and running it off line power, and when in that mode, the battery is charging. You may decide on an additional switch if you have both the solar panels and a line-powered charger. There are lots of options. Just be aware that a battery charging circuit is for charging only and is not good for running an amp. If you want to keep things simple, you can make the battery removable, and use an external charger rather than building one in. That way it's easy to have a spare battery to swap in when the first one runs down.
Speakers should be wired directly from the output terminals from the amp, using wire the size of household electrical cord: 18 gauge or similar. With small speakers, sometimes response can be made more linear with some circuitry either on the input of the amp or between the amp and the speaker, like a crossover. Check if there are recommended baffle-step compensation circuits for your driver.
Be sure to put a fuse between the battery and anything else. It is shorts out, a lead-acid can produce a lot of current and melt wires, etc. I would put the power switch right before the +12v terminal on the amp. hook up the power indicator in parallel to the amp's power inputs, making sure you get the +- correct.
--Buckapound
- Status
- Not open for further replies.