Hi All,
I'm a newbie to this field, I'm planning to build a car sub-woofer system using lepai ta2020 amp. This is my idea
2 sub-woofer out from car audio (Kenwood kdcu349) -> Lepai ta2020 amp -> 2 subwoofer (using 4" woofer)
these are my questions regarding this project
1. Is it a good idea to use lepai amp for this project?
2. According to the datasheet , maximum input voltage for ta2020 is 6v, but the accoding to the ebay seller the maximum input sensivity is 200mv. According to the car manual preout is rated at 2v mark. So if i connect this lepai amp to the car stereo , is it going to burn the lepai amp?
Sorry for my bad English. Your help is highly appreciated. Thanks
I'm a newbie to this field, I'm planning to build a car sub-woofer system using lepai ta2020 amp. This is my idea
2 sub-woofer out from car audio (Kenwood kdcu349) -> Lepai ta2020 amp -> 2 subwoofer (using 4" woofer)
these are my questions regarding this project
1. Is it a good idea to use lepai amp for this project?
2. According to the datasheet , maximum input voltage for ta2020 is 6v, but the accoding to the ebay seller the maximum input sensivity is 200mv. According to the car manual preout is rated at 2v mark. So if i connect this lepai amp to the car stereo , is it going to burn the lepai amp?
Sorry for my bad English. Your help is highly appreciated. Thanks
For the money you'd be better off buying an actual car audio amp, you'll get more watts for your subs and in a car power is much needed, it will have inputs robust enogh for your stereo output, a dedicated remote turn on and normally a built in crossover-handy if your stereo doesn't have one.
Also I'd forget 4" subs unless you've found something the rest of the world has missed-I used to run an 8" band pass subwoofer off my Pioneer MEH-P5100 speaker outputs, they would bridge and give me approx 34wrms (IIRC) subwoofer output with adjustable crossover. Sounded pretty darn weak-the extra wind/road noise you have to overcome in a moving car was more than the HU can produce in the bass ranges, even when used witha high efficiencey band-pass enclosure.
There are plenty of good 6"/6.5"/7"/8" drivers on the market that will offer a much better solution to any reasonably priced 4" and by the time you've built the enclosure there'd be little difference in size
Also I'd forget 4" subs unless you've found something the rest of the world has missed-I used to run an 8" band pass subwoofer off my Pioneer MEH-P5100 speaker outputs, they would bridge and give me approx 34wrms (IIRC) subwoofer output with adjustable crossover. Sounded pretty darn weak-the extra wind/road noise you have to overcome in a moving car was more than the HU can produce in the bass ranges, even when used witha high efficiencey band-pass enclosure.
There are plenty of good 6"/6.5"/7"/8" drivers on the market that will offer a much better solution to any reasonably priced 4" and by the time you've built the enclosure there'd be little difference in size
4" drivers barely qualify as woofers; most don't even go much below 100 Hz without the help of a ported box. Better to scrounge something from old house speakers. A sealed-box 8" or 10" can be wonderful in a car.
Now, 10 watts is "enough" for a car sub IF you have a reasonably efficient one and aren't looking to win SPL contests. Use a sub in the mid 90's sensitivity if possible, and with a DVC so you can exploit both halves of the amp.
On the other hand... around here it's not that hard to find a real used car amp for relatively cheap. Pawn shops, yard sales, swap meets.
Now, 10 watts is "enough" for a car sub IF you have a reasonably efficient one and aren't looking to win SPL contests. Use a sub in the mid 90's sensitivity if possible, and with a DVC so you can exploit both halves of the amp.
On the other hand... around here it's not that hard to find a real used car amp for relatively cheap. Pawn shops, yard sales, swap meets.
Hi All,
Need your help again.
After making half of the speaker box today i went to buy speakers & ended up buying two 6" woofers for my system. I thought it was a bargain at that price. However now I'm facing a big problem as I'm left with 2 small boxes that would ideally accommodate 4" woofer,but i can squeeze my 6" woofer using the other side of the box. But I'm worrying about the overall performance after fixing the woofer.
1. whats your idea about this new modification?
2. do i need a new box ? instead of using the previous speaker box?
3. I would highly appreciate if someone can post the average volume for 6" speaker box?
(speaker box calculation is too complex for me & I don't have the values for the woofer)
Thanks All
Need your help again.
After making half of the speaker box today i went to buy speakers & ended up buying two 6" woofers for my system. I thought it was a bargain at that price. However now I'm facing a big problem as I'm left with 2 small boxes that would ideally accommodate 4" woofer,but i can squeeze my 6" woofer using the other side of the box. But I'm worrying about the overall performance after fixing the woofer.
1. whats your idea about this new modification?
2. do i need a new box ? instead of using the previous speaker box?
3. I would highly appreciate if someone can post the average volume for 6" speaker box?
(speaker box calculation is too complex for me & I don't have the values for the woofer)
Thanks All
What 6" woofers have you bought? I doubt the box you've half built will be any use. Post a link for the subs and I'll model them for you.
Thanks for your reply
I'm unable to find any information about this woofer. However I'll post these 2 pictures
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/6484/img116v.jpg
I'm unable to find any information about this woofer. However I'll post these 2 pictures
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/6484/img116v.jpg
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I've found the manufacturer, no links to any specific products-you may be able to get TS paramters of them if you contact them: Eastech Electronics (Taiwan) Inc.
Without any specs I'd just build a box and test the speaker and then work out whether it needs a bigger or smaller enclosure.
TBH I'd actually just re-sell them and find a driver that suits and buy that, you can work out the TS specs yourself: Measuring Loudspeaker Driver Parameters if you can be bothered, could be quite a lot of effort for something that was probably designed as a mid anyway.
Without any specs I'd just build a box and test the speaker and then work out whether it needs a bigger or smaller enclosure.
TBH I'd actually just re-sell them and find a driver that suits and buy that, you can work out the TS specs yourself: Measuring Loudspeaker Driver Parameters if you can be bothered, could be quite a lot of effort for something that was probably designed as a mid anyway.
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