So, I made a fourth order subwoofer box and I put the driver in through a removable panel in the enclosure. Of course I am using 10/32 socket head screws with appropriate T-Nuts to mount the subwoofer. All went well until the final two bolts and I "unseated" the T-NUT so now I can't remove the subwoofer from the enclosure to reseat the T-Nuts. This is a very tight fit, I don't think I can simply cut them off.
Ideas? I am thinking just roll with six screws.....its a hassle.
Ideas? I am thinking just roll with six screws.....its a hassle.
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Can you get some pliers in there to hold the T-nut while you tighten the screw?
FWIW, when it comes to T-nuts, I put them most of the way in with a hammer, and then screw the driver to the baffle, pulling each T-nut in nice and tight. Then, a couple of blobs of PVA on the back of each T-nut (part on the T-nut, part on the baffle) means they don't come loose.
Running with fewer screws can be okay, but I'd be worried about air leaks and rattles.
Chris
FWIW, when it comes to T-nuts, I put them most of the way in with a hammer, and then screw the driver to the baffle, pulling each T-nut in nice and tight. Then, a couple of blobs of PVA on the back of each T-nut (part on the T-nut, part on the baffle) means they don't come loose.
Running with fewer screws can be okay, but I'd be worried about air leaks and rattles.
Chris
I use the same process other than that I use a bolt with a large washer on it to snug up the T-Nut. I have never had one come loose before.
I need to figure out how to get this driver out without ruining the box....or maybe listen to it and see if its OK
I need to figure out how to get this driver out without ruining the box....or maybe listen to it and see if its OK
Not useful for getting the driver out, but I've had more success with threaded inserts than with tnuts. Ran into a similar problem with tnuts as you once, never used them since.
My best recommendation for getting the driver out is trying to get in there with some needle nosed pliers.
My best recommendation for getting the driver out is trying to get in there with some needle nosed pliers.
Maybe you could hammer in a slightly larger torx screwdriver so you can pull and unscrew at the same time.
Sometimes if you only have one slipping nut you can take the rest out and carefully load the remaining bolt a bit as you wind it out. Not sure how you'd do that in there.
If the T-nuts are loose...
Remove all screws that You can.
Put a screwdriver between the panel and the speaker gasket and gently force upwards until You have unscrewed the loose one.
The key here is to force those T-nut spikes grasp the wood in order to hold the movement.
Trust me I had the same problem one time...
Now glue a bit of wood to the panel and drill again and use a longer screw afterwards.
Now I staple always a bit of leather or thick paper after putting the T-nut in place so it won't fall again.
A blob of rapid glue between the T-nut and the wood also helps.
Remove all screws that You can.
Put a screwdriver between the panel and the speaker gasket and gently force upwards until You have unscrewed the loose one.
The key here is to force those T-nut spikes grasp the wood in order to hold the movement.
Trust me I had the same problem one time...
Now glue a bit of wood to the panel and drill again and use a longer screw afterwards.
Now I staple always a bit of leather or thick paper after putting the T-nut in place so it won't fall again.
A blob of rapid glue between the T-nut and the wood also helps.
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Great thought. That is exactly what i tried first. No luck. I might try and grind the heads off maybe
Are the two unseated nuts opposite or next to eachother? Orient the box where the driver is hanging off the two that came unseated. The weight of the driver will pull the nuts back to the wood. Maybe cut a block of wood an inch or so shorter than the driver to the bottom of the cabinet. That way, when you hit the last thread, the driver won't swing and cause more damage (and you won't have to hold that monster up while fiddling with screws).
Can you get the t nut to at least sit on the wood and put a single drop of superglue? It should wick in (enough to hold on as you're tightening) but get sucked up in the wood and not make it to the threads.
Also, put a drop of wd40 or better a nicely wicking oil on to the threads of the t nut (or if the screw has threaded through, right at the base of the t-nut screw. Lowering the threading torque will lower the propensity to spin the t-nut.
Edit: do the oil thing first then the superglue. The superglue won't stick to the oil nicely either, giving you further insurance.
Also, put a drop of wd40 or better a nicely wicking oil on to the threads of the t nut (or if the screw has threaded through, right at the base of the t-nut screw. Lowering the threading torque will lower the propensity to spin the t-nut.
Edit: do the oil thing first then the superglue. The superglue won't stick to the oil nicely either, giving you further insurance.
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A good reason to not use t-nuts (use threaded inserts instead).
This has happened to me a number of times… difficult to get around without damaging the box.
dave
I remember my first loudspeaker box and trying to tighten a bolt on my fane 12-50.
I had a screwdriver on the front and spanner on the nut on the back.
The screwdriver slipped and went straight through the cone !
I pulled the paper back up and glued it and it last for 5 years on the road until I sold the speakers.
I had a screwdriver on the front and spanner on the nut on the back.
The screwdriver slipped and went straight through the cone !
I pulled the paper back up and glued it and it last for 5 years on the road until I sold the speakers.
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