I was just wondering what kind of speaker combinations you have all tried.... what works well and what doesn't especially when it comes to the low power that the t-amp puts out.
I was thinking about modding a t-amp myself and have been eyeing the epos els-3 speakers to pair with it. They are 4 Ohms rated at 87dB, do you think these would be too inefficient to run with the t-amp?
What kind of speaker combinations are you running? What works well and what doesn't?
Thanks,
edtang
I was thinking about modding a t-amp myself and have been eyeing the epos els-3 speakers to pair with it. They are 4 Ohms rated at 87dB, do you think these would be too inefficient to run with the t-amp?
What kind of speaker combinations are you running? What works well and what doesn't?
Thanks,
edtang
I've used my AR-17's with the T-amp (90-91db, "8-ohm").. I've had no problem driving them to very loud levels (any louder and it'd be aggrevating the neighbors at my apartment).
I think 90db or so should be sufficient for good listening. If you really want to go loud, you'll need a more efficient speaker, but for just detailed listening, 90db seems to work fine for me.
I do need to try a pair of modded T-amps on my AR-11's.. They're bi-ampable, so I can drive the woofer (80hz and below) with 1 t-amp, and the midbass/tweeter with another.
A little off-topic, but it's too bad that AR just makes cables now.. I really love my AR speakers.
I think 90db or so should be sufficient for good listening. If you really want to go loud, you'll need a more efficient speaker, but for just detailed listening, 90db seems to work fine for me.
I do need to try a pair of modded T-amps on my AR-11's.. They're bi-ampable, so I can drive the woofer (80hz and below) with 1 t-amp, and the midbass/tweeter with another.
A little off-topic, but it's too bad that AR just makes cables now.. I really love my AR speakers.
I've had no trouble driving a pair of 89db Energy Veritas 2.2's to normal listening levels in a large room. These speakers have double voice coils on the woofers and need a bit of current. Larger power caps seem to help a lot in that regard, however, if the volume is pushed a notch too high, the meaning of the word distortion becomes abundantly clear. It's amazing how fast the sound deteriorates after reaching that point.
I recently bought a bunch of those little 3" aura's that parts express had a buyout special on. I put a couple in some nice 3/4" cabs and hooked 'em up to the SI. Well these things are rated at 87 db and they sounded a bit anemic on the SI (compared to my other amps). I think 90 db would be about the lowest I'd care to go with this amp.
edtang said:
With 4 ohms, the speaker has more headroom, since you're limited by the voltage (really) when it comes to this amp. You'll be able to get about 10 watts out of it with a 12v supply, or ~100db max @ 1m.
You should know that the output caps on the SI are designed for a 6 ohm load, so you may want to look into replacing those, along with the PSU coupling cap. You may also want a beefier PSU (13v-13.5v).
Just to confirm what I'll be doing... and a few more questions from the newbie...
Input:
I'll be getting a 2200uF 16V cap in series with a 20k Ohm resistor to connect from the volume POT to R1 & R2 (original R1 & R2 removed). This should take care of in the input caps right?
Output:
Replace the 4 0.47uF caps C21-C24 (labeled "Co" on the Tripath data sheet). What value caps do I need to replace them with to make them match 4 Ohm impedance? (I see it says use 0.22uF for 8 Ohms)
Where is the PSU coupling cap, and what size cap would you recommend to replace it?
Thanks for helping me out!
Input:
I'll be getting a 2200uF 16V cap in series with a 20k Ohm resistor to connect from the volume POT to R1 & R2 (original R1 & R2 removed). This should take care of in the input caps right?
Output:
Replace the 4 0.47uF caps C21-C24 (labeled "Co" on the Tripath data sheet). What value caps do I need to replace them with to make them match 4 Ohm impedance? (I see it says use 0.22uF for 8 Ohms)
Where is the PSU coupling cap, and what size cap would you recommend to replace it?
Thanks for helping me out!
I assume that you mean a 2.2uf cap on the input circuit. If a 2200 uf is used, you will need ear plugs to mask the turn-on noise. Check out Panomaniac's site, he has an excellent diagram, (with photos), of the method you described. Also, if you go to page 4 of the thread titled Sonic Impact 5066 Parts List & Modifications, you will find a discussion of the various options for coupling caps (with part numbers that Motherone was kind enough to supply).
Surplus Flat-screen TV Stereo speakers
I found these Philips flat-screen TV stereo speakers while browsing All Electronics
(http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/SK-314/580/FLAT-SCREEN_TV_STEREO_SPEAKERS_.html).
They are listed as full-range 15W, 4 ohm speaker. I was thinking of buying a pair for my Sonic Impact T-amp. Anyone have any suggestion on whether these with be a good match for the T-amp?
Thanks,
Nathan
I found these Philips flat-screen TV stereo speakers while browsing All Electronics
(http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/SK-314/580/FLAT-SCREEN_TV_STEREO_SPEAKERS_.html).
They are listed as full-range 15W, 4 ohm speaker. I was thinking of buying a pair for my Sonic Impact T-amp. Anyone have any suggestion on whether these with be a good match for the T-amp?
Thanks,
Nathan
I own a t-amp, and I've heard some talk about how high-efficiency pro drivers are cool. So I've been kinda looking around for a 2-way maybe with a 12 inch driver and say 95-100 db efficiency that will give that 'effortless dynamics' feel. Maybe down to 40ish hz. Oh, and it's gotta be price-consumate to the t-amp.
Sadly, I have not seen much to satisfy this niche. I am thinking about trying to fill it myself, I've picked up a couple of MCM speakers 55-1745 (got 'em on sale for $25 each down from normal price $42) and I'm looking at PE's pyle pro ph44 horn tweeter. That's as far as I've gotten, tho. I got other projects to wrap up first... And anyway, someone suggested that the MCM woofer was a guitar speaker and wouldn't sound good. Time will tell - but at this point it might take a significant amount of time. If you all have any thoughts on this matter, I'd be interested to hear 'em.
But if you want to rock out with your t-amp, I understand a BIB would do it. My room can't support the BIBs, so I haven't really done the feasability study on that one.
Also, for those looking for a bit more volume, since I dropped a heatsink on my t-amp chip I feel like it's been able to give a little more oomph before giving up. But I might be imagining that. We should get panomaniac to do THD tests at different chip temps...
Sadly, I have not seen much to satisfy this niche. I am thinking about trying to fill it myself, I've picked up a couple of MCM speakers 55-1745 (got 'em on sale for $25 each down from normal price $42) and I'm looking at PE's pyle pro ph44 horn tweeter. That's as far as I've gotten, tho. I got other projects to wrap up first... And anyway, someone suggested that the MCM woofer was a guitar speaker and wouldn't sound good. Time will tell - but at this point it might take a significant amount of time. If you all have any thoughts on this matter, I'd be interested to hear 'em.
But if you want to rock out with your t-amp, I understand a BIB would do it. My room can't support the BIBs, so I haven't really done the feasability study on that one.
Also, for those looking for a bit more volume, since I dropped a heatsink on my t-amp chip I feel like it's been able to give a little more oomph before giving up. But I might be imagining that. We should get panomaniac to do THD tests at different chip temps...
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