Hi To All.
I've been reading posts in diyaudio and some other forums on mods on the SI T-Amp.
Unfortunately after lots of reading i found no clear indication on what to do.
Most of the chatter is extremely technical or extremely difficult.
What I'm looking for to do is.
Improve the stock T-Amp and laave it in it's box for the moment.
One of the things I know i should do is change the input caps, but i've got no idea where they are, or what to change them for.
I'm not lookinf for anythign too fancy either, parts I'd like to use need to be able to be sourced at the local electronics shop.
I think it would be nice if we can keep this thread nice, precise and easy so any new DIYers can easily look and know what to do in a few pages.
I've been reading posts in diyaudio and some other forums on mods on the SI T-Amp.
Unfortunately after lots of reading i found no clear indication on what to do.
Most of the chatter is extremely technical or extremely difficult.
What I'm looking for to do is.
Improve the stock T-Amp and laave it in it's box for the moment.
One of the things I know i should do is change the input caps, but i've got no idea where they are, or what to change them for.
I'm not lookinf for anythign too fancy either, parts I'd like to use need to be able to be sourced at the local electronics shop.
I think it would be nice if we can keep this thread nice, precise and easy so any new DIYers can easily look and know what to do in a few pages.
aussiebuddha said:
(a) This is the wrong forum for such a thread, modding the SI T-Amp is well covered in the Class D forum.
(b) It's up to you to pick a mod you are capable of. But you (and others) should have the chance to read others' experiences, tips, etc. You can always gloss over the longer words. 😉
(d) The main T-Amp modding thread in Class D has plenty of links to illustrated guides, I point out Panomaniac's as easy to follow, and the 'Stealth' mod as the easiest to implement.
[This isn't the Class D forum?! Did this posting get moved here from somewhere else?]
I second Cpemma's recommendation about Michael Mardis' site (Panomaniac). It is very thorough.
One thing the new Stereophile review of the Super-T noted was a problem with the power supply being undersized. It seems to me that this is the simplest mod - just buy a new switching supply with much higher current ratings.
I understand that many of the original mods developer by DIYers for the T-Amp were implemented in the Super-T including improved caps, connectors and case. So it might be in your best interest to buy the Super-T instead. If you want a great looking amp based on the T-amp you should look at the AmpBox Audio's SI chassis (http://mywebpages.comcast.net/ampbox/page2.html)
Or for a really nice one built on the 41Hz Amp 6 try Panomaniac's product (http://www.octopusamps.com/New-amp.htm)
I second Cpemma's recommendation about Michael Mardis' site (Panomaniac). It is very thorough.
One thing the new Stereophile review of the Super-T noted was a problem with the power supply being undersized. It seems to me that this is the simplest mod - just buy a new switching supply with much higher current ratings.
I understand that many of the original mods developer by DIYers for the T-Amp were implemented in the Super-T including improved caps, connectors and case. So it might be in your best interest to buy the Super-T instead. If you want a great looking amp based on the T-amp you should look at the AmpBox Audio's SI chassis (http://mywebpages.comcast.net/ampbox/page2.html)
Or for a really nice one built on the 41Hz Amp 6 try Panomaniac's product (http://www.octopusamps.com/New-amp.htm)
aussiebuddha said:
I agree with you completely, being a newbie I know exactly what u r saying.
gychang
i followed the stealth mods as shown in michael mardas website and got all parts from jaycar in sydney aus including a power supply 12vdc 2amp regulated which cost more than the amp itself
no prob at all. am using the amp as a power amp for home theatre duty driving surround L and R
no prob at all. am using the amp as a power amp for home theatre duty driving surround L and R
You can go over to my website and have a look around (I'm that Michael Mardis guy).
I swear I never meant it to be a Sonic Impact DIY site, but it turned out that way. And a big Mahalo (thanks) to Audio1st who helped with great diagrams and instructions.
And thanks to all the site visitors, helpers and emailers.
Between us all we've managed to slaughter quite a few little plastic amps.
I swear I never meant it to be a Sonic Impact DIY site, but it turned out that way. And a big Mahalo (thanks) to Audio1st who helped with great diagrams and instructions.
And thanks to all the site visitors, helpers and emailers.
Between us all we've managed to slaughter quite a few little plastic amps.
panomaniac said:
Your site is great, I am in the midst of following your instruction. I plan to use the wall wart after I get thru, I am putting it in a larger case.
Do I leave the old female DC input switch on the board?, do I just solder the new input wire per your excellent graph?
thanks in advance.
gychang
And another using the original case here plus a re-boxed one with SLA power here.
Confirm as Panomaniac said; I cut the battery wires at the cell holder contact points and took them to my new power input socket and ignored the on-board one.
On the power LED if you extend it: The LED is mounted to the bottom board surface. Looking down from the top, the cathode (flatted side) is on the left. I just cut the LED leads next to the body and tacked extension wires on. Use any colour you like, the LED supply is a current-limited 12V. I did add an extra 10k resistor in the LED wire, my new one was a high-brightness type and positively glared.
Confirm as Panomaniac said; I cut the battery wires at the cell holder contact points and took them to my new power input socket and ignored the on-board one.
On the power LED if you extend it: The LED is mounted to the bottom board surface. Looking down from the top, the cathode (flatted side) is on the left. I just cut the LED leads next to the body and tacked extension wires on. Use any colour you like, the LED supply is a current-limited 12V. I did add an extra 10k resistor in the LED wire, my new one was a high-brightness type and positively glared.
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