Resistor error in thinking....
I know this vid is 2 years old, but I just saw it, and figured I'd relay the info. I could not post a comment on the youtube page for some reason. Also of note that there are MANY other ways to attenuate a tweeter, and that only a 2-resistor after is known as the conventional L-pad. And I also know that a lot of newer builders follow Toid's advice.
My main concern is the tweeter resistor before the network will NOT see loads more power than those after. It is still under the effect of the highpass to where its frequency response is limited. Connect the negative line and run the circuit. You get a series LCR across the amplifier terminals with regards to the xover and resistor. The tweeter is really a resistor across the highpass coil. The fact that the cap is there eliminates the lower frequencies from passing the resistor.
Using the same method but adding the shunt resistor before the xover is where a lot of newer builders make the error and heat resistors. This places a pair of resistors across the amplifier in series, and then they get everything the amplifier is sending.
There are many methods of contour filtering with various arrangements, but anything that is seen by the amplifier without a capacitor in the string is where power and heat may become an issue.
Please, be aware of this as fires can result by being careless if driving under louder levels. Trace your circuit, and see if a low bass signal can get from + to - without being impeded..
Best regards,
Wolf
I know this vid is 2 years old, but I just saw it, and figured I'd relay the info. I could not post a comment on the youtube page for some reason. Also of note that there are MANY other ways to attenuate a tweeter, and that only a 2-resistor after is known as the conventional L-pad. And I also know that a lot of newer builders follow Toid's advice.
My main concern is the tweeter resistor before the network will NOT see loads more power than those after. It is still under the effect of the highpass to where its frequency response is limited. Connect the negative line and run the circuit. You get a series LCR across the amplifier terminals with regards to the xover and resistor. The tweeter is really a resistor across the highpass coil. The fact that the cap is there eliminates the lower frequencies from passing the resistor.
Using the same method but adding the shunt resistor before the xover is where a lot of newer builders make the error and heat resistors. This places a pair of resistors across the amplifier in series, and then they get everything the amplifier is sending.
There are many methods of contour filtering with various arrangements, but anything that is seen by the amplifier without a capacitor in the string is where power and heat may become an issue.
Please, be aware of this as fires can result by being careless if driving under louder levels. Trace your circuit, and see if a low bass signal can get from + to - without being impeded..
Best regards,
Wolf
yes.
As an example I've got an center channel that I got for free. Why?
It wasn't working. The tweeter crossover has a burnt up 1.5 ohm 5 watt resistor. I've got a 1.5 ohm 10 watt instead, hopefully that fixes it.
As an example I've got an center channel that I got for free. Why?
It wasn't working. The tweeter crossover has a burnt up 1.5 ohm 5 watt resistor. I've got a 1.5 ohm 10 watt instead, hopefully that fixes it.
With the popularity of small speakers together with such positive reviews of the SVS Ultra Bookshelf I was wondering why I hadn’t seen any attempts to clone ?
Reading through this thread, it is really unclear what is meant by "clone". Most of this thread ended up talking about bookshelf speakers with about 6.5" drivers. While using Satori drivers in either the Kalasan or Kairos probably results in a speaker better than the SVS, what does that have to do with "cloning" the SVS Ultra?
Wolf pointed out early on possible drivers (and Dennis Murphy states the same at Audio Science Review). It says right on SVS' website that they use a 1" aluminum dome tweeter and 6.5" glass-fiber woofer and it is generally believed that SVS uses Peerless drivers. (I've read that they may not be the same as those available to DIYers though.) We also know the dimensions from the SVS website: 15” (H) x 8.5” (W) x 10.6” (D) (without grille); 1.7” wide-flared rear-firing port. That is 0.58 cubic feet assuming 1/2" material. Parts Express website recommends 0.5 cf for an F3 of 56Hz for the Peerless 830990. They retail for $1,000 a pair. It's $160 for drivers, someone should really try to "clone" these down to the facets.
I don't think that is the crossover for the Ultra Bookshelf.
I saw a video of the SVS Ultra where the reviewer looked inside the speaker and the crossover is actually very simple just 5 parts.
The complicated crossover that Linesource posted is just the picture from SVS' site where they state that is the crossover of the SVS Ultra Bookshelf. However, Dennis Murphy posted the simple schematic of the crossover that he said was in the actual speakers he had.
When looking at SVS' webpage, you get the impression that the filter used for the Ultra Bookshelf Speaker, is the big complex XO which is also shown in post #11. Even watching the video 4 Things to Listen for When Choosing New Speakers - YouTube the guy is sitting with this big XO.
Looking at the tear down video Whats INSIDE? SVS Ultra + Measurements! - YouTube it's something quite different inside the Ultra Bookshelf .... quite misleading I think .... not really liking it
From the Freq response measured in this video, I think the sound would probably be quite pleasing and not very forward.
What probably makes this a good speaker is the use of 2 quite good / very good drivers, a nice box and an XO that has probably been listened to to tune the sound.
Looking at the tear down video Whats INSIDE? SVS Ultra + Measurements! - YouTube it's something quite different inside the Ultra Bookshelf .... quite misleading I think .... not really liking it
From the Freq response measured in this video, I think the sound would probably be quite pleasing and not very forward.
What probably makes this a good speaker is the use of 2 quite good / very good drivers, a nice box and an XO that has probably been listened to to tune the sound.
from Dennis Murphy post#408
SVS Ultra Bookshelf Speaker Review | Page 21 | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
from the youtube video- check at 4:45
Whats INSIDE? SVS Ultra + Measurements! - YouTube
Compare this to the second image:
Peerless by Tymphany 830990 6-1/2" GFC Cone HDS Woofer - Electro Carts, Thymphany Speakers Shopping Portal
Looks like the 830990
SVS Ultra Bookshelf Speaker Review | Page 21 | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
from the youtube video- check at 4:45
Whats INSIDE? SVS Ultra + Measurements! - YouTube
Compare this to the second image:
Peerless by Tymphany 830990 6-1/2" GFC Cone HDS Woofer - Electro Carts, Thymphany Speakers Shopping Portal
Looks like the 830990
PE has one of those Peerless woofers as a 'refurbished and open box' special for $32, not bad value.
Geoff
Geoff
I’m in the process of cloning these but I made it a 3 way speaker. Same 6.5” woofer and using the same like 5 1/4” for the midrange. The tweeter I have the peerless 1” they use but also picked up a corundum tweeter that will probably sound better then the 25$ tweeter they use.
They retail for $1,000 a pair. It's $160 for drivers,
That is a factor of 6.25 (full retail price vs price of drivers). That is pretty typical, and actually a bit on the low end.
Yea, you are paying for the cabinet which isn’t cheap to do. If you’ve ever seen their cabinets in person the finish is really nice. Add in 4-500$ for a body shop to finish the speakers then you have to build the cabinets. 1000$ seems decently priced.
If someone builds clones the easiest fix for the top end would be to just add an L-pad.
Like this (about 1/3 way down), I would put it on the back. Hopefully that works.
2015/05/02 Hurrah for New Speakers!
loudspeakers << Microcosmologist
Like this (about 1/3 way down), I would put it on the back. Hopefully that works.
2015/05/02 Hurrah for New Speakers!
loudspeakers << Microcosmologist
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Wouldn’t most receivers room eq fix any brightness in the top end already? I know Audyssey does.
And even if you have basic tone controls, that is quite different than Audyssey or other similar capabilities.
By the way, I'm pretty sure the complicated crossover is for the MTMWW tower that is a 3.5 way.
By the way, I'm pretty sure the complicated crossover is for the MTMWW tower that is a 3.5 way.
Their ultra towers mtm section is a cascade crossover from my understanding. The top 6.5” runs higher then the lower one. I think the bottom one is cut at 700 and the upper runs to the 2000hz crossover to the tweeter. 160hz is the dual opposed woofers at the bottom.
Here's a DIY speaker with the Peerless 830990 and BG2508-04 & L-Pad
https://www.der-akustische-untergrund.de/speakers/advanced-level-projects/nomo/
https://www.der-akustische-untergrund.de/speakers/advanced-level-projects/nomo/
The tweeter DA25BG08-04 is N/A (?), so if you can't find it, then use the DA25BG08-06 .
The Nomo woofer & Glenmore Tweeter crossover DA25BG08-06 looks like they could work.
https://www.der-akustische-untergrund.de/speakers/advanced-level-projects/nomo/
There are 3 crossovers in this following thread-
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...5-woofer-and-new-tymphany-da25bg08-06-tweeter
The Nomo woofer & Glenmore Tweeter crossover DA25BG08-06 looks like they could work.
https://www.der-akustische-untergrund.de/speakers/advanced-level-projects/nomo/
There are 3 crossovers in this following thread-
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...5-woofer-and-new-tymphany-da25bg08-06-tweeter
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