Thinking more on this, F1 ... is it possible to take the R & L sound outputs from your TV and plug them into, say, the inputs that you currently use for your 507.
If so - you could experiment and see whether reducing the TV's sound with its remote ... lowers the volume coming from your spkrs.
If so - we are in bizniz! 🙂
Andy
If so - you could experiment and see whether reducing the TV's sound with its remote ... lowers the volume coming from your spkrs.
If so - we are in bizniz! 🙂
Andy
And if that doesn't work (ie. the TV volume control doesn't affect the level of sound coming from the output RCAs) ... there is always your cell-phone - if your phone is one that requires a jack to plug in your ear phones!
If it is ... you can buy a cable which has a phone jack on one end ... and 2 RCA plugs on the other.
Then:
* Plug these RCAs into the input sockets you normally use for your 507.
* Get some music playing on your cell-phone.
* Turn down the volume control on your phone to the one above 'no sound'; if you turn up your preamp vol control ... you should be able to hear the music OK.
* Then turn down your preamp vol control very low and plug the cell-phone RCAs into 'Phono 1'. Turn up the preamp vol control a bit, if you don't hear anything in the previous step.
* Try and remember the loudness - then plug the cell-phone RCAs into 'Phono 2'.
* According to the (confusing) info on the faceplate of your Uesugi, the sound level at Phono 1 should be the same as the sound level at Phono 2.
Is it?
* Then plug the cell-phone RCAs into Phono 3.
Is this louder ... or softer, than the other 2?
Andy
If it is ... you can buy a cable which has a phone jack on one end ... and 2 RCA plugs on the other.
Then:
* Plug these RCAs into the input sockets you normally use for your 507.
* Get some music playing on your cell-phone.
* Turn down the volume control on your phone to the one above 'no sound'; if you turn up your preamp vol control ... you should be able to hear the music OK.
* Then turn down your preamp vol control very low and plug the cell-phone RCAs into 'Phono 1'. Turn up the preamp vol control a bit, if you don't hear anything in the previous step.
* Try and remember the loudness - then plug the cell-phone RCAs into 'Phono 2'.
* According to the (confusing) info on the faceplate of your Uesugi, the sound level at Phono 1 should be the same as the sound level at Phono 2.
Is it?
* Then plug the cell-phone RCAs into Phono 3.
Is this louder ... or softer, than the other 2?
Andy
Andy,
The TV is not even close to my system. I was going to try my cell phone when I received a message from a chap who makes SUTs here in the states. He, like many Denon users, recommends the Cinemag 1254 transformer.
He said that he "agrees with you that the 1:20 ratio is on the high side for the 103R, but not out of range. If your preamp has the normal 47k input resistance, the load would end up at about 120 ohms, and Denon's recommended min is 100. The 1254 definitely is another good option, and it can be wired for 1:10 or 1:13, which would give you 470 or 265 ohms. If you want to maximize gain but not go below 140 ohms, the Cinemag 3440 transformers are great with the 103R, and have a 1:18 ratio for about 150 ohms".
"For either the 3440's or 1254's I can make a 4 ratio box that would allow you to just try a variety of ratios and see what you like. For either of those, usually the highest ratio loads the 103 carts a little too much, but the other 3 work and let you have some control over gain".
What do you think? Aurealis in Brisbane makes SUTs based on the Cinemag transformers. The CM-1254 is the replacement part for the CM-1131. The CM-1131 is hand made by David Geren while the CM-1254 is manufactured on the factory floor. The CM-1254 does go through final test by Mr. Geren.
Also, Mcleans Audio in East Gosford, NSW sell the Auditorium 23 built for the Denon.
Cheers,
Cleaver Greene!!!
The TV is not even close to my system. I was going to try my cell phone when I received a message from a chap who makes SUTs here in the states. He, like many Denon users, recommends the Cinemag 1254 transformer.
He said that he "agrees with you that the 1:20 ratio is on the high side for the 103R, but not out of range. If your preamp has the normal 47k input resistance, the load would end up at about 120 ohms, and Denon's recommended min is 100. The 1254 definitely is another good option, and it can be wired for 1:10 or 1:13, which would give you 470 or 265 ohms. If you want to maximize gain but not go below 140 ohms, the Cinemag 3440 transformers are great with the 103R, and have a 1:18 ratio for about 150 ohms".
"For either the 3440's or 1254's I can make a 4 ratio box that would allow you to just try a variety of ratios and see what you like. For either of those, usually the highest ratio loads the 103 carts a little too much, but the other 3 work and let you have some control over gain".
What do you think? Aurealis in Brisbane makes SUTs based on the Cinemag transformers. The CM-1254 is the replacement part for the CM-1131. The CM-1131 is hand made by David Geren while the CM-1254 is manufactured on the factory floor. The CM-1254 does go through final test by Mr. Geren.
Also, Mcleans Audio in East Gosford, NSW sell the Auditorium 23 built for the Denon.
Cheers,
Cleaver Greene!!!
Andy,
Someone sent me this info, but mine uses 6 12AX7 only:
You're in luck. Note the 100VAC AC line rating, as would be expected.
Still no input capacitance loading specified, but that was common back then.
Phono gain appears to be 40dB, and the line stage gain 22dB, also typical of the time.
Uesugi U-Bros-1: Manufacturer's technical parameters:
Input sensitivity / impedance (SP output at rated power):
PHONO 1 / 2 - (2mV / 47 kOhm)
PHONO 3 - (6.5 mV / 47 kΩ)
AUX 1 / 2, TAPE PB - (200 mV / 140 kΩ)
AUX 3 - (1000 mV / 120 kΩ)
Output level / impedance REC OUT (200 mV nominal, 40 V max):
PRE OUT (nominal 2.5 V, max. 30 V)
Supply voltage AC100V, 50Hz / 60Hz
Used lamps: 12AX7 x 5 / 12AU7 x 2
Dimensions: Main body: W532 x H146 x D360 mm
Power supply: W127 x H146 x D314 mm
Weight: Main body approx. 10.7 kg.
Power supply approx. 4.3 kg.
price 430,000 yen (1975-)
Someone sent me this info, but mine uses 6 12AX7 only:
You're in luck. Note the 100VAC AC line rating, as would be expected.
Still no input capacitance loading specified, but that was common back then.
Phono gain appears to be 40dB, and the line stage gain 22dB, also typical of the time.
Uesugi U-Bros-1: Manufacturer's technical parameters:
Input sensitivity / impedance (SP output at rated power):
PHONO 1 / 2 - (2mV / 47 kOhm)
PHONO 3 - (6.5 mV / 47 kΩ)
AUX 1 / 2, TAPE PB - (200 mV / 140 kΩ)
AUX 3 - (1000 mV / 120 kΩ)
Output level / impedance REC OUT (200 mV nominal, 40 V max):
PRE OUT (nominal 2.5 V, max. 30 V)
Supply voltage AC100V, 50Hz / 60Hz
Used lamps: 12AX7 x 5 / 12AU7 x 2
Dimensions: Main body: W532 x H146 x D360 mm
Power supply: W127 x H146 x D314 mm
Weight: Main body approx. 10.7 kg.
Power supply approx. 4.3 kg.
price 430,000 yen (1975-)
Aah, that is the info we needed! 🙂
So they are all MM inputs - but Phono 3 has a bit less gain (as it expects to see a cart with 6.5mV ... not just 5mV). And I would suggest that Phono 1 & 2 has a bit more than 40dB gain - as it can cope with 2mV output.
Re. SUTs - I am not a fan of them ... I prefer to use a head amp when feeding into an MM phono stage, for the simple reason that, with a headamp, gain is independent of loading.
Of those 2 Australian sources - I, personally, would go with Aurealis. He is a guy who makes things - and has a top reputation; Bill McLean is just a retailer. (Full disclosure: I have had several dealings with Bill McLean - as I own Maggies and Bill is the Maggie importer for Australia; I haven't dealt with Aurealis but see on Stereo Net Australia that he has many happy customers.)
And the 1:10 ratio of the Aurealis CM1254-based SUT would give you the best loading you can get with a SUT. Feed it into either Phono 1 or Phono 2 - which expect 2mV - and you have a good match! 🙂
Re. loading:
* yes, the minimum recommended loading is 100 ohms.
* but the coil impedance is 14 ohms - which, in my experience, means that the optimum load is anywhere between 140 ohms and 1400 ohms.
* this loading range is easily achieved with a head amp - particularly the AKSA 'Paris' which I supply.
Good luck! 🙂
Andy
So they are all MM inputs - but Phono 3 has a bit less gain (as it expects to see a cart with 6.5mV ... not just 5mV). And I would suggest that Phono 1 & 2 has a bit more than 40dB gain - as it can cope with 2mV output.
Re. SUTs - I am not a fan of them ... I prefer to use a head amp when feeding into an MM phono stage, for the simple reason that, with a headamp, gain is independent of loading.
Of those 2 Australian sources - I, personally, would go with Aurealis. He is a guy who makes things - and has a top reputation; Bill McLean is just a retailer. (Full disclosure: I have had several dealings with Bill McLean - as I own Maggies and Bill is the Maggie importer for Australia; I haven't dealt with Aurealis but see on Stereo Net Australia that he has many happy customers.)
And the 1:10 ratio of the Aurealis CM1254-based SUT would give you the best loading you can get with a SUT. Feed it into either Phono 1 or Phono 2 - which expect 2mV - and you have a good match! 🙂
Re. loading:
* yes, the minimum recommended loading is 100 ohms.
* but the coil impedance is 14 ohms - which, in my experience, means that the optimum load is anywhere between 140 ohms and 1400 ohms.
* this loading range is easily achieved with a head amp - particularly the AKSA 'Paris' which I supply.
Good luck! 🙂
Andy
Andy,
I thought about head amps too. I had what I considered the best, the Vendetta Research SCP2B, it was brilliant. I also had a Verion MK1 transformer in lieu of the Mark Levinson D cards in my ML-1.
I just read the questions some Stereo.net.au forum members asked you regarding the AKSA Paris. How do you charge the batteries, do you need a wall-wart? Also, what are the black and red slots for?
Cheers,
Horacio
PS: the Aurealis 1254 is out of stock.
I thought about head amps too. I had what I considered the best, the Vendetta Research SCP2B, it was brilliant. I also had a Verion MK1 transformer in lieu of the Mark Levinson D cards in my ML-1.
I just read the questions some Stereo.net.au forum members asked you regarding the AKSA Paris. How do you charge the batteries, do you need a wall-wart? Also, what are the black and red slots for?
Cheers,
Horacio
PS: the Aurealis 1254 is out of stock.
Attachments
Yes, anything designed by John Curl is top-notch! 🙂
However, the Stereophile review that I found says this has RIAA included? (Which means to me that it is a full phono stage?)
Whereas the Paris - like the G. Slee 'Elevator' and Jim Hagerman's 'Piccolo' - is just a gain stage ... so needs to feed into an MM phono stage.
Aah, that pic is of one of the first Paris headamps I sold - powered by a 12v SLA; the red & black banana sockets are for the battery charger.
On the front of the case is a switch for 'Charge' vs. 'Play' ... and a meter to tell you the battery voltage (plus a switch to turn the meter on/off).
The 2 pairs of RCAs on the left are the input RCAs - 1 pair for the phono cable, the other pair for 'loaded' RCA plugs.
The RCAs on the right are the output RCAs (to feed a MM phono stage).
The Paris is a design from Hugh ('Mr AKSA') Dean; he designed it for a 12v SLA supply - so that is how I first built them. (Hugh suffered a stroke some years ago and since then has handed over construction & supply of the Paris to me.)
However, subsequent to an experiment I carried out on my 'Muse' phono stage (my own design) ... I now generally supply the Paris powered by a 12v linear PS - such as the Sbooster. So - instead of the 2 banana sockets - it has a socket for a 12v barrel connector.
With the Muse, I found (to my surprise) that using an Sbooster didn't give anything away - in terms of noise floor - but delivered a slightly crisper leading edge of transients (than the SLA).
Using an Sbooster means that the Paris can be delivered in a 40mm high case, rather than the 80mm high case shown in the pic. So it looks a bit more attractive! 🙂 Case dimensions are: 124mm wide, 170mm deep and 40mm high.
On the front, there is just a green LED showing power on ... or, I can also provide an on/off switch (I just use the switch on the Sbooster) and put the load-plug sockets on the front, too. (That reduces the aesthetics of the front panel, IMO ... but some people don't have easy access to the back of a component, in their rack.)
Aah, that's a damn shame. 🙁
Andy
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Aah, sorry F1.
What I mean by that is RCA plugs which have a resistor soldered across them (under the barrel).
This resistor acts in parallel with the default load resistor on the Paris to deliver whatever loading you want.
Yes, when I supply a Paris, it comes with a pair of metal-barreled Vampire RCA plugs with the resistor value of your choice.
(Typically, I provide a range of (cheap) loaded plastic plugs for the buyer to experiment with; when he's decided on the value that makes his cart sound the best ... I send him a pair of Vampire plugs with the chosen value - and he sends the 'play plugs' back. 🙂 )
Andy
Geoff of Aurealis said that he's no longer making the SUT’s, nor stocking the the Cinemag transformers. Sadly they did not prove popular with the Australian audiophiles which is 99% of his market.