The cork looks great, but I would still place a anti static mat on the area that you work. Then a silicone mat for when you use a hot air gun. Sadly nothing will stop screws and smt parts from jumping, I always by a few spares.
Bill
Bill
not sure if this is anti-static, but it's a very nice work surface....
https://www.draftingsuppliesdew.com...dY0TyQm7sgK4VQOYVvSM_SoQu5yQXeEkaAu4LEALw_wcB
https://www.dickblick.com/products/...BxUI4pBqsmRhKEdnYUWr-WUF7J50OpS4aAuAREALw_wcB
https://www.draftingsuppliesdew.com...dY0TyQm7sgK4VQOYVvSM_SoQu5yQXeEkaAu4LEALw_wcB
https://www.dickblick.com/products/...BxUI4pBqsmRhKEdnYUWr-WUF7J50OpS4aAuAREALw_wcB
The larger ones cost in the vicinity of an actual 3M antistatic surface, which will be much better and work properly.
I use single tempered Masonite on top of my wood/Melamine workbench. The textured untempered side goes on the bottom and prevents it from sliding. Heavy gear can be slid across the slick side - if it gets gouged by a heavy piece of gear or a screw head its Masonite and not furniture.
One guy on a forum I used to frequent had Masonite for his bench top. And he had sheet metal under it that he grounded that served as a ground plane.
Plywood for me. One half inches thick screwed down with drywall screws. I can drill into it, use long screws for stops or make hold downs for irregular clamping. Amp stand gets screwed down for stability. I have a couple of white bathmats in front of the bench to help find dropped parts. The top is 2 x 8 feet long so a trip to the lumber yard yields a fresh surface with a minimum of fuss. Once parts are powder coated or painted a sheet of cardboard may go down before final assembly for protection. Cleanup is a whiskbroom. My 2 cents
One place I worked covered all the benches with drafting table mat.
https://www.vycocover.com/
I'm partial to painting plywood with polyurethane paint or varnish. It cures to an almost glass-like finish, and can be touched up if necessary.
https://www.vycocover.com/
I'm partial to painting plywood with polyurethane paint or varnish. It cures to an almost glass-like finish, and can be touched up if necessary.
+1 for an antistatic mat. I bought mine at Digikey. I think it's 60x120 cm give/take. It comes with a grounding cord that you attach to the building ground.
Tom
Tom
For my main bench that I built I inset high quality laminate flooring for the work surface - several years of moving heavy equipment around on it has yet to even leave a scratch and, as far as I can tell, it seems to be pretty much heat and chemical proof. When needed I have a small 2 by 3 foot anti-static mat put under the equipment I am working with. For the OP the laminate would be an easy, affordable and durable solution and could be made and trimmed to size easily.
Hal
Hal
I’m a carpenter so three inch thick solid maple or birch is about right. When I work on delicate stuff I use card board and shipping blankets over top. A softer bench would be made from poplar. For reducing static I use a humidifier and grounding straps.
Edit: A cat will collect the static electricity. 😁
Edit: A cat will collect the static electricity. 😁
Thick green felt. Like that used on snooker tables. We used it in a pro service department, and it was perfect.
I got a sheet of decent 2 or 3mm thick stainless steel. The good stuff wont dent ding or stain and stays looking good virtually forever. Another nice plus, magnets won't grab a hold of it when your trying to work on a raw speaker and have to reposition it frequently.
If you have no experience with an angle grinder, perhaps have the supplier cut it down to size. Stainless steel takes some practice its not an easy one to cut by no means, it also takes several passes with stuff even as thin as a couple mm's.
If you have no experience with an angle grinder, perhaps have the supplier cut it down to size. Stainless steel takes some practice its not an easy one to cut by no means, it also takes several passes with stuff even as thin as a couple mm's.
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If you want to go with stainless you should check out restaurant supply places where they re-sell used kitchen stuff. Most larger cities should have a place like that. The stainless benches are great for small motor repair, they don’t absorb the oil and gas and you can wipe them off clean of oil and metal chips.
1) Not all stainless is nmagnetic
2) A highly conductive surface an be quite hazerdous when working on electronics.
2) A highly conductive surface an be quite hazerdous when working on electronics.
Correct not all of it is magnetic ^^^. I am not an expert on the stuff but it seems the higher grades are non magnetic. Not all of it is stainless also. Whatever is attracting the magnet in it is also what's more likely to get oxidation. Maybe some retailers shouldn't be calling it stainless steel at all, hmm?
Most if not all of the stuff on new appliances looks nice but its cheap crap (also magnetic).
None of the sheet stuff I have is magnetic. And its the hardest, and hardest to cut. The stuff I have I can't even bend it by hand its that tough.
I got really good at cutting it though, with a cut off wheel, or angle grinder if you will or zip wheel. I can follow a straight sharpie line with the best of em no matter the length. But heat can be an issue if you want it to maintain original shape and colour take it slow, give time too cool down between passes. Otherwise it will turn that pretty blue shade when over heated.
The stuff you would find in a surgical room, non magnetic and commonly referred to as surgical steel by metal supply houses. That's the one you want, if your after stainless steel.
Its all but indestructible on a work bench and will stay looking good long after we are all gone.
Most if not all of the stuff on new appliances looks nice but its cheap crap (also magnetic).
None of the sheet stuff I have is magnetic. And its the hardest, and hardest to cut. The stuff I have I can't even bend it by hand its that tough.
I got really good at cutting it though, with a cut off wheel, or angle grinder if you will or zip wheel. I can follow a straight sharpie line with the best of em no matter the length. But heat can be an issue if you want it to maintain original shape and colour take it slow, give time too cool down between passes. Otherwise it will turn that pretty blue shade when over heated.
The stuff you would find in a surgical room, non magnetic and commonly referred to as surgical steel by metal supply houses. That's the one you want, if your after stainless steel.
Its all but indestructible on a work bench and will stay looking good long after we are all gone.
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It would also be about the worst from an ESD perspective. You want a surface that's electrostatic dissipative not one that is highly conductive.
Tom