Snoopy33,
Unless I misunderstand you you're not doing (2) as the key point is to separate the audio system ground and PC ground by linking the two by an optical link only.
If you're taking an audio line directly from an internal soundcard (or external soundcard connected to pc over USB or firewire) there is a ground connection between your PC and audio system. This is where the noise is coming from. Doesn't matter the stated SNR of the soundcard dac.
The only reliable way of getting rid of this noise is to separate the PC and audio system grounds. Method (1) does this through galvanic isolation of an analog audio line (2) does thins through an optical connection.
Unless I misunderstand you you're not doing (2) as the key point is to separate the audio system ground and PC ground by linking the two by an optical link only.
If you're taking an audio line directly from an internal soundcard (or external soundcard connected to pc over USB or firewire) there is a ground connection between your PC and audio system. This is where the noise is coming from. Doesn't matter the stated SNR of the soundcard dac.
The only reliable way of getting rid of this noise is to separate the PC and audio system grounds. Method (1) does this through galvanic isolation of an analog audio line (2) does thins through an optical connection.
Hold on, the majority of amps are connected to the 3.5" socket of sound cards over optical and don't have this grounding problem...
In my experience, the majority of PCs connected to audio separates using a 3.5mm to 2x phono analogue connection do suffer from grounding issues. Sometimes it's more obvious than others ;-)
Ok this is astonishing. I can not get over how good this is. Way past my Bang & Olufsen Penta's & IcePowers!!!
F**king astonishing quality!!!
Take one of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250843074036&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Strip a USB lead and connect the 5v to the Sure board. All noise has now gone!!
I initially replaced the 470uF Low-ESF coupling capacitors that come on the USB DAC with 3.3uF Muse Nichlon but didn't feel the bass was all there right at the bottom. I paralleled both and now have the bass as well as the glorious mid and treble. Link straight to the vIn pins to bypass the Sure input stage.
I'm only running 12v at the moment and had to redo the voltage offset it was way off on both channels.
I'm running Tannoy 607's.
Amazing!!! 🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
F**king astonishing quality!!!
Take one of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250843074036&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Strip a USB lead and connect the 5v to the Sure board. All noise has now gone!!
I initially replaced the 470uF Low-ESF coupling capacitors that come on the USB DAC with 3.3uF Muse Nichlon but didn't feel the bass was all there right at the bottom. I paralleled both and now have the bass as well as the glorious mid and treble. Link straight to the vIn pins to bypass the Sure input stage.
I'm only running 12v at the moment and had to redo the voltage offset it was way off on both channels.
I'm running Tannoy 607's.
Amazing!!! 🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
I am not sure how is done.....can you provide more info or tutorial?
Or photos at least?
Or photos at least?
DIY Computer Speakers
This sounds awesome. I'm new to diyaudio forums and I'm looking at building a set of computer speakers. Something nice for under $200.
Any more information on how to go about building something like this?
~TIA
This sounds awesome. I'm new to diyaudio forums and I'm looking at building a set of computer speakers. Something nice for under $200.
Any more information on how to go about building something like this?
~TIA
It's all inside my PC but here is a better explanation.
The USB DAC I listed earlier for £12, insert a USB cable and peel back the sheaf wherever you wish. Cut the black and red and wire these to the Sure +5v and Gnd connector. This solves the PC noise issue.
The USB DAC has a 3.5" output socket and good but large low-ESR capacitors. I soldered two 3.3uF Nichlon MUSE capacitors in parallel to boost the quality in the mid-high.
Take a 3.5" headphone style lead and cut the phono sockets off. Wire the ground to the Sure GND and the red/white into the +in on the 6pin or so interface on the board. This bypasses the sure boards decoupling section to maximise sound.
I'm using Tannoy 607's and the quality is astonishing. I figure the 609 and 611's would be just as good. I'd avoid the MK2 as the MK1 had a true flat response - Tannoy reduced the upper end with the MK2 as it was deemed too harsh. I prefer accuracy though. 🙂
And accuracy is just unbelievable with this set up. Frankly, I'd pitch this against anything - at any price.
Regards, Andrew
Upgraded
Got rid of the diodes and upped the 12v to 27v using one of these;
eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
And installed an AMD heatsink.
Got quite a punch now, just the same outstanding quality as before. Bliss.
Got rid of the diodes and upped the 12v to 27v using one of these;
eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
And installed an AMD heatsink.
Got quite a punch now, just the same outstanding quality as before. Bliss.
Hi!I want to create my own portable speaker with two 50W 6Ω speakers
Can I use 2 X 50Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board - TDA7492 with this power supply :
12V 0-3.33A(Set at 3.0A)
And can I connect it to 12V battery?
Sorry for my english 😉
Can I use 2 X 50Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board - TDA7492 with this power supply :
12V 0-3.33A(Set at 3.0A)
And can I connect it to 12V battery?
Sorry for my english 😉
Sure 4x100w Tripath boards as a multichannel amp
Hi
I am new to this forum and am hoping someone can assist me.
I am trying to build a 4 stereo zones (8 channel) amplifier using 2 Sure Electronics 4x100 tripath based boards.
When i connect one source to both inputs of one board, it all works fine. But when i connect the source to the other board as well (with its own Meanwell PSU), i get a high pitched sound in all channels.
It seems like some ground loop causing the feedback or the amps are oscillating.
I tried several things - 1) using a single PSU 2) source going to one input on each board 3) tried creating a local ground point connecting the grounds of the two boards and the ground of the input
None of these worked
Attached is a simple diagram of my issue.
Any help will be appreciated
regards
Ravi
Hi
I am new to this forum and am hoping someone can assist me.
I am trying to build a 4 stereo zones (8 channel) amplifier using 2 Sure Electronics 4x100 tripath based boards.
When i connect one source to both inputs of one board, it all works fine. But when i connect the source to the other board as well (with its own Meanwell PSU), i get a high pitched sound in all channels.
It seems like some ground loop causing the feedback or the amps are oscillating.
I tried several things - 1) using a single PSU 2) source going to one input on each board 3) tried creating a local ground point connecting the grounds of the two boards and the ground of the input
None of these worked
Attached is a simple diagram of my issue.
Any help will be appreciated
regards
Ravi
I presume you are using the original inputs and haven't bypassed the input stage capacitors?
First try four 2.2uF-3.3uF capacitors inline with the inputs, that should decouple any DC flow.
Good luck, Andrew
Well, I guess this thread is the start for many user, eh? One more!
Hello everyone, I seek advice on modding the 2x100W Sure board. Novice in the modding world by the way.
I plan on run it in a dual mono setup for a car project (found a half-decent look yuangjing 32V PSU - changing caps on that as well).
So for the amp itself, tank caps switch, going for Wurth coils , input mods and decoupling caps. Tips all over the thread, but I guess that's about it.
Since I'll be using 'half' amplifier, I guess it's alright to mod one channel per side - as far input, tank caps e decoupling caps are concerned. No idea on the inductors though. May change 2 or swapping all is mandatory?
Any other recommendations?
Regards,
Raphael
Hello everyone, I seek advice on modding the 2x100W Sure board. Novice in the modding world by the way.
I plan on run it in a dual mono setup for a car project (found a half-decent look yuangjing 32V PSU - changing caps on that as well).
So for the amp itself, tank caps switch, going for Wurth coils , input mods and decoupling caps. Tips all over the thread, but I guess that's about it.
Since I'll be using 'half' amplifier, I guess it's alright to mod one channel per side - as far input, tank caps e decoupling caps are concerned. No idea on the inductors though. May change 2 or swapping all is mandatory?
Any other recommendations?
Regards,
Raphael
Just finished my new 4 channel (2x amp board) power amplifier. Plan to use a miniDSP 2x4 unbalanced to drive it (nice match: miniDSP output is 0.9Vrms max and Sure amp input sensitivity is 0.77Vrms).
Currently using two channels (one per board) for testing, until I get the miniDSP up and running. Sounds very similar to the Arjen Helder TK2050 I've been using lately. Old amp used Meanwell SP-240-24, new one uses SP-320-24. Added a snubber (0.1uf + 0.22ohm) between common and ground.
Thanks to everyone for the tweaks and tips.
Currently using two channels (one per board) for testing, until I get the miniDSP up and running. Sounds very similar to the Arjen Helder TK2050 I've been using lately. Old amp used Meanwell SP-240-24, new one uses SP-320-24. Added a snubber (0.1uf + 0.22ohm) between common and ground.
Thanks to everyone for the tweaks and tips.
Attachments
Did anyone try to remove the R4 (or R16 on the new PCB's) 0 Ohm resistor between Power Supply GND and signal GND? It should open the loop between GND's. But when I try to start the amp without it the Power ON led is not switching on and the amp is completely dead. 😕
Which is better: two 2x100W-s or one 4x100W? I see many are choosing two 2x100W-s but why?
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after reading almost all the posts here, I just bought my first 2*100 watt from sure electronics 😉
going to drive my passive sub with it. As it is connected using two speaker channels right now, I plan on doing exactly the same thing with the Sure amp.
I am going to use a 24v 10A rated cheap switched mode psu from ebay.
To connect the amp to my AVR I plan on using the LFE out. Can I just connect this to both channels on my Sure Amp?
I am student of electronics engineering, but I have no previous experience working with audio equipment at all.
any tips from you guys?
oh, I live in the netherlands, and am also looking for some kind of case, and maybe some better cooler/heatsink for it. If anyone knows where to get those on the cheap (in the netherlands, or on internet) where I don't pay more shipping costs than the thing is worth?😉
going to drive my passive sub with it. As it is connected using two speaker channels right now, I plan on doing exactly the same thing with the Sure amp.
I am going to use a 24v 10A rated cheap switched mode psu from ebay.
To connect the amp to my AVR I plan on using the LFE out. Can I just connect this to both channels on my Sure Amp?
I am student of electronics engineering, but I have no previous experience working with audio equipment at all.
any tips from you guys?
oh, I live in the netherlands, and am also looking for some kind of case, and maybe some better cooler/heatsink for it. If anyone knows where to get those on the cheap (in the netherlands, or on internet) where I don't pay more shipping costs than the thing is worth?😉
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