gday!
I made it finaly. FE87 sealed. 1 litre box. it's working as it's can 🙂 150 hz - 30kHz. it's prety not much. and I like bass.
that's why I tie to Fostex additional woofer. band pass 4 order. it's working 2 octaves, not all of time - depend of music and sounds very good. comfortable.
bi-amping, bi-wiring , very simple active filtres, amp's TDA2030 and 2030A.
stabilized PS for FE87. ... otherwise I couldn't listen it.
I call it - "Lounge". I like it and I will make it by onyx.
have to be nice view. isn't it?
do you have any suggest for this idea?
I made it finaly. FE87 sealed. 1 litre box. it's working as it's can 🙂 150 hz - 30kHz. it's prety not much. and I like bass.
that's why I tie to Fostex additional woofer. band pass 4 order. it's working 2 octaves, not all of time - depend of music and sounds very good. comfortable.
bi-amping, bi-wiring , very simple active filtres, amp's TDA2030 and 2030A.
stabilized PS for FE87. ... otherwise I couldn't listen it.
I call it - "Lounge". I like it and I will make it by onyx.
have to be nice view. isn't it?
do you have any suggest for this idea?
Attachments
My suggestion would be to use a small woofer driver, as made by Vifa, Audax, and the like.
Instead of a passive crossover, I'd reccomend going "active". A pair of Amp32s from 41hz.com is only about 55$ USD (not sure what the VAT is), and the sound quality is excellent. They're also about the same size as a ten-watt inductor.
Use one amplifier per channel, with an active filter (an op-amp plus some tiny caps and inductors) as a high-pass for the FE87 and a low-pass for the woofer.
As an added bonus, you can connect 'em directly to a preamp - the power amplifiers would be built in!
Also, you can power them off a 12v car battery, or a computer power supply.
Instead of a passive crossover, I'd reccomend going "active". A pair of Amp32s from 41hz.com is only about 55$ USD (not sure what the VAT is), and the sound quality is excellent. They're also about the same size as a ten-watt inductor.
Use one amplifier per channel, with an active filter (an op-amp plus some tiny caps and inductors) as a high-pass for the FE87 and a low-pass for the woofer.
As an added bonus, you can connect 'em directly to a preamp - the power amplifiers would be built in!
Also, you can power them off a 12v car battery, or a computer power supply.
First, try the cabinet on a deeper shelf. I think the energy from the port is being lost under the shelf, rather than reinforcing that off the cone.
Secondly, I am working on 2 wide range systems at present. Both need (or I want) bass assistance. My experience is better results with full range to the full range driver, and tailor the sub xover to suit.
The only reason I would place a x-over on a full range driver, would be due to power handling requirements.
edit: My "little" system, 3" drivers in folded TLs, driven from a TDA2007A, is better with a regulated 19v supply.
Secondly, I am working on 2 wide range systems at present. Both need (or I want) bass assistance. My experience is better results with full range to the full range driver, and tailor the sub xover to suit.
The only reason I would place a x-over on a full range driver, would be due to power handling requirements.
edit: My "little" system, 3" drivers in folded TLs, driven from a TDA2007A, is better with a regulated 19v supply.
gentlemen! thank you for your reply.
of course I use active crossover and separate amplifier for Fostex and woofer. TDA2030 +-15V stabilized for Fostex and +-20V for TDA2030A for woofer.
in the beginning I planed to use Monacor SPH-115 woofer, but latter choosen Edifier EDF-131-3 woofer as well it's has more deeper bass and shielded. you can see it at the bottom of picture.
about crossover. at start I used circuit cross1.jpg attached.
now I use simple 2 order for woofer and 1/2 order for Fostex 🙂.
it's just working better for me.
about box. now it's plywood 20 mm. band pass has 2 cameras about 3.5 litres each. Fostax has about 1 litre sealed.
latter I'll make it by onix and it'll be strong and noiseless.
I'm always being made loudspeaker by marble and other stones. I like it.
of course I use active crossover and separate amplifier for Fostex and woofer. TDA2030 +-15V stabilized for Fostex and +-20V for TDA2030A for woofer.
in the beginning I planed to use Monacor SPH-115 woofer, but latter choosen Edifier EDF-131-3 woofer as well it's has more deeper bass and shielded. you can see it at the bottom of picture.
about crossover. at start I used circuit cross1.jpg attached.
now I use simple 2 order for woofer and 1/2 order for Fostex 🙂.
it's just working better for me.
about box. now it's plywood 20 mm. band pass has 2 cameras about 3.5 litres each. Fostax has about 1 litre sealed.
latter I'll make it by onix and it'll be strong and noiseless.
I'm always being made loudspeaker by marble and other stones. I like it.
Attachments
Yuri, thanks for comments about stones. I thought I might show a lack of modern terms by asking about onyx.
Interesting. Do you carve from a solid block or bond panels together.
And how do you drill holes to mount the drivers? I once looked at slate tiles for midrange baffles, but lacked the knowledge on cutting the holes in stone.
Have you any pictures of marble cabinets? I am visualising onyx open baffles.
Interesting. Do you carve from a solid block or bond panels together.
And how do you drill holes to mount the drivers? I once looked at slate tiles for midrange baffles, but lacked the knowledge on cutting the holes in stone.
Have you any pictures of marble cabinets? I am visualising onyx open baffles.
dear Geoff H!
holes for stone - it's difficult to do. especially beside border.
I do not make it myself. it's my partner - company being made it using hydroabrasive cutting. do you understand it? my English very simple, sorry.
see attached my old , but favorite subwoofer.
all of marble, or other stone loudspeakers I made from slab 2 cm and glue it. then - polish. to tell the true - it's not expensive - the same like wood. but aesthetics - very high.
I choose onix this time and top and bottom plate will me malachite 1 cm thick. hope it will be good view.
holes for stone - it's difficult to do. especially beside border.
I do not make it myself. it's my partner - company being made it using hydroabrasive cutting. do you understand it? my English very simple, sorry.
see attached my old , but favorite subwoofer.
all of marble, or other stone loudspeakers I made from slab 2 cm and glue it. then - polish. to tell the true - it's not expensive - the same like wood. but aesthetics - very high.
I choose onix this time and top and bottom plate will me malachite 1 cm thick. hope it will be good view.
Attachments
Yury said:dear Geoff H!
holes for stone - it's difficult to do. especially beside border.
I do not make it myself. it's my partner - company being made it using hydroabrasive cutting. do you understand it? my English very simple, sorry.
see attached my old , but favorite subwoofer.
all of marble, or other stone loudspeakers I made from slab 2 cm and glue it. then - polish. to tell the true - it's not expensive - the same like wood. but aesthetics - very high.
I choose onix this time and top and bottom plate will me malachite 1 cm thick. hope it will be good view.
I think that's called "waterjet cutting".
Nice speaker! I wonder how hard it would be to produce a thin granite veneer for wood?
Yuri, you do not need to be sorry for your English (it's a silly language anyway)
The sub looks great. Onyx will look good. I am thinking of 1.5 metre high transmission lines. (They could become headstones)
I do know about hydro abrasion, having worked in several places where it is a problem.
Great ideas.
The sub looks great. Onyx will look good. I am thinking of 1.5 metre high transmission lines. (They could become headstones)
I do know about hydro abrasion, having worked in several places where it is a problem.
Great ideas.
I am thinking of 1.5 metre high transmission lines. (They could become headstones)
don't know about TL. TQWP looks nice. I made it a few. and planed to made by marble. but got no nice sound. insufficient bass.
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