Looks like a class d amp so just swapping the outputs for new ones might just blow again.
The driver IC's often pop if the mosfets blow.
The driver IC's often pop if the mosfets blow.
My mistake. Should have read pin 11.
What's the resistance from pin 11 of the driver IC to pin 1 of Q9 and Q10?
What's the resistance from pin 11 of the driver IC to pin 1 of Q9 and Q10?
I was hoping that someone would come along to give the confirmed replacement part numbers. They may still post them.
From the pin configuration, it appears that the C7 IC is an IRS2092S. The four transistors Q7-Q10 appear to be drivers and may have protected the driver IC. Since the output FET gate resistors survived, I would expect that the drivers have survived. The output FETs 'could' be the IRFB4115 but they're generally used with much lower gate resistor values (yours appear to be 47 ohms). To confirm the gate resistor value, you could measure the resistance from leg 3 of the driver transistors to the gate pad of the output FETs.
From the pin configuration, it appears that the C7 IC is an IRS2092S. The four transistors Q7-Q10 appear to be drivers and may have protected the driver IC. Since the output FET gate resistors survived, I would expect that the drivers have survived. The output FETs 'could' be the IRFB4115 but they're generally used with much lower gate resistor values (yours appear to be 47 ohms). To confirm the gate resistor value, you could measure the resistance from leg 3 of the driver transistors to the gate pad of the output FETs.
Yes between gate pads of the outputs and pin 3 on the drivers there is 47ohms. What happens if the wrong output FETs are mounted? But one more thing im wondering about, there is two transistors, S3 and S4. Between pin 1 and 3 on those there is 0 ohms. Should it be like that?
Class D amps can be very finicky and installing the wrong output FETs could make it fail immediately when powered up or be very unreliable.
The two components that read 0 ohms from 1-3 are rectifiers. The 0 ohm reading is the reading across the secondary windings of the transformer. That's normal unless you read 0 ohms to the center terminal, as well.
The two components that read 0 ohms from 1-3 are rectifiers. The 0 ohm reading is the reading across the secondary windings of the transformer. That's normal unless you read 0 ohms to the center terminal, as well.
So i need to find out what the exact model of the H8 transistors is. Got some research to do then.
Have you tried contacting the manufacturer to see if they would tell you the exact part number?
There are people here that have access to this information. Maybe one will post. Unless there is a reason that this has to be done immediately, give it a day or so.
When you replace the FETs, you need to clamp all FETs in place (after removing all of the old heatsink compound and replacing it) and insert a 10-15 amp fuse in the B+ line. If there is a problem and you don't use the low-rated fuse, it may result in more extensive damage to the amp.
There are people here that have access to this information. Maybe one will post. Unless there is a reason that this has to be done immediately, give it a day or so.
When you replace the FETs, you need to clamp all FETs in place (after removing all of the old heatsink compound and replacing it) and insert a 10-15 amp fuse in the B+ line. If there is a problem and you don't use the low-rated fuse, it may result in more extensive damage to the amp.
The manufacturer does not give any info. I will wait and hope someone else has the part number. Thanks for the fuse tip. I will use a low rate fuse for testing.
Hi Ant On05, i've repaired a lot of this amps, and can confirm that the C7 driver is an IRS2092 and the H8 mosfet are not defined but i've tried and worked perfectly for me, IRFB4115 or IRFB4321 or IRFB4228.
If you use 4115 you have to swap the gate resistor to 10ohm, if you use IRFB4321 or IRFB4228 you have to swap the gate resistor to 12-15ohm.
If you use one of the three mentioned, probably the amp become more reliable then the original, but essentially, due to the natural unreliability of this design, this amp will never become really and totally reliable, in fact the re-blowing possibility is not never averted.
If you use 4115 you have to swap the gate resistor to 10ohm, if you use IRFB4321 or IRFB4228 you have to swap the gate resistor to 12-15ohm.
If you use one of the three mentioned, probably the amp become more reliable then the original, but essentially, due to the natural unreliability of this design, this amp will never become really and totally reliable, in fact the re-blowing possibility is not never averted.