Def Tech Super cube 1 amp. Load crack then dead, any ideas. No burning visible anywhere. Caps not bloated,
Forget it.
WAY above anything a regular user can solve.
Send it to Authorized Service Tech or maybe back to Distributor/Factory
Thank for the info. The part indicated in the photo is fine, no burning, all good. To send it to Def Tech they want $400 US Plus shipping. This is 20 years old so not worth it. These amps are junk, I will trash it.
Or simply ditch the amplifier plate and replace it by a thick aluminum plate and then keep your sub as a passive sub and just buy a separate amp.
My last subwoofer which died (Yamaha), I fired the amp, closed the box with a piece of MDF, I grafted a car amp to it and I installed it in my van where it works 100x better. ..
This guy repairs a lot of Supercubes. Most are V. 2 or 3, but may get somethings to look for in yours.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLshKk2mDU1wktV-eAPSS2Zn6R9DEZKrju
Dan
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLshKk2mDU1wktV-eAPSS2Zn6R9DEZKrju
Dan
Maybe HE can, since he specialized in them. If not, as suggested by huggygood, junk old dead amp but not speaker and cabinet and adapt a new one.
Here in Argentina PA type powered cabinets are often unrepairable at component level and Factory replacement boards impossible so PA operators or DJs also close back with some plywood/MDF, mount a passive crossover inside, a couple Speakons, and drive them with generic rack type power amps.
Indestructible "boat anchor" types such as Peavey CS800 are very popular.
But also "mystery brand" $200 ones work fine.
Here in Argentina PA type powered cabinets are often unrepairable at component level and Factory replacement boards impossible so PA operators or DJs also close back with some plywood/MDF, mount a passive crossover inside, a couple Speakons, and drive them with generic rack type power amps.
Indestructible "boat anchor" types such as Peavey CS800 are very popular.
But also "mystery brand" $200 ones work fine.
Or you can use one set of the speaker binding post connect to the woofer directly and use it as a passive sub.
Good idea.
Since it already takes removing backplate and rewiring straight to woofer, I would also remove dead amp and all unused hardware: pots - connectors - switches, etc. , leaving only the connector pair in actual use to avoid future confusions.
I would also cover now useless labels with black Sharpie and/or add a sticky label by those terminals stating : "straight to woofer"
It never hurts.
Since it already takes removing backplate and rewiring straight to woofer, I would also remove dead amp and all unused hardware: pots - connectors - switches, etc. , leaving only the connector pair in actual use to avoid future confusions.
I would also cover now useless labels with black Sharpie and/or add a sticky label by those terminals stating : "straight to woofer"
It never hurts.