I don’t want to throw off any potential suggestions, but could my problem be carbonized board? (Just the fact that the original coil was burnt and that area has darkened).
**should I load all the fets? Could it be residual capacitance for not loading all the banks?
**should I load all the fets? Could it be residual capacitance for not loading all the banks?
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Connect the cap directly across the speaker terminals. Does the amp still work as if no caps are installed (not causing the outputs to overheat)?
Yes it works without overheat and the slight hissing sound is gone. i used the relay output pads, on the inductor side its problem on the speaker pad side its ok both tests with the Mylar and the electrolytic same results.
The board could be a problem. Leaving the caps connected to the points where you tested may be the solution if the problem is the board. If the board has become conductive, it will likely need to be delaminated (copper pulled off) and wires (insulated from the board) installed to replace the copper. Leaving it could result in the board burning as the carbonization becomes worse.
The inductor may have connections on top and bottom of the board.
The inductor may have connections on top and bottom of the board.
In the layer of the darkened spot is just the ground on top and the speaker put on bottom, can I dissect the ground trace (yellow in pic) and reroute the trace (red in pic) to avoid not cutting through the board as I still want the board to hold the inductor.
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Its a successful repair thanks to Mr. Babin and the Diyaudio community, all traces has been disect and capacitor network rerouted to the speaker side of the relay, amp has been playing for nearly two hours now and its not overheating.
All i will be doing now before i put on the bottom cover is use the RTV clear silicone and secure the output inductor and let it set for tomorrow.🙂
All i will be doing now before i put on the bottom cover is use the RTV clear silicone and secure the output inductor and let it set for tomorrow.🙂
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