Hi there,
I'm new to this, and have not yet buit anything. However, I read here and on other forums that the Class-T Amps are pretty good, cheap and small - which is what I need. So I thought I might just ask the experts.
I'm basically looking for an Amp for:
I am a bit confused by the different Class-T Chips available, and I found this on a website:
Variants of Tripath amplifiers are typically 15w (TA2024), 20w (TA2020), 25w (TA2021), 30w (TA2050), 50w (TDA7492) and 100w (TDA7498)
Is this right? I found some TA2025 with 2x50w. Are there any overviews of the different types, and especially quality? As there are different manufacturers using these.
I'm right now looking for 2 Class T amps for:
1. My car (2x20 or 30W), 12V
2. My old Beovox CX 50 (2x50W, 6 ohm)
And wanted to try those Class-T chips. I saw on a different site:
Thus I thought about the Lepy TP2020A+ for the car and for example the SMSL SA 50 for the Beovox. Another candidate would be the Mohr SV 50: mohr SV50 schwarz Vollverstrker Stereoverstrker AMP Endstufe Verstrker HiFi: Amazon.de: Audio & HiFi but there were no details.
Can anyone help me a bit here? 🙂
Thanks a lot,
Christoph
I'm new to this, and have not yet buit anything. However, I read here and on other forums that the Class-T Amps are pretty good, cheap and small - which is what I need. So I thought I might just ask the experts.
I'm basically looking for an Amp for:
I am a bit confused by the different Class-T Chips available, and I found this on a website:
Variants of Tripath amplifiers are typically 15w (TA2024), 20w (TA2020), 25w (TA2021), 30w (TA2050), 50w (TDA7492) and 100w (TDA7498)
Is this right? I found some TA2025 with 2x50w. Are there any overviews of the different types, and especially quality? As there are different manufacturers using these.
I'm right now looking for 2 Class T amps for:
1. My car (2x20 or 30W), 12V
2. My old Beovox CX 50 (2x50W, 6 ohm)
And wanted to try those Class-T chips. I saw on a different site:
Thus I thought about the Lepy TP2020A+ for the car and for example the SMSL SA 50 for the Beovox. Another candidate would be the Mohr SV 50: mohr SV50 schwarz Vollverstrker Stereoverstrker AMP Endstufe Verstrker HiFi: Amazon.de: Audio & HiFi but there were no details.
Can anyone help me a bit here? 🙂
Thanks a lot,
Christoph
From experience; Avoid Lepai... period
Tripath amp Chips Were surprisingly good.
But now, years after Tripaths' demise..most ALL available now are poorly made copies. Risky buys imo.
Tripath amp Chips Were surprisingly good.
But now, years after Tripaths' demise..most ALL available now are poorly made copies. Risky buys imo.
I had reviewed the matter and then purchased this one: 2 100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board 12V 24V for Arduino | eBay ebay#400930718344
But, I have not yet taken the time to check it out yet.
It is on the "to do" list.
That is PBTL, the P is for paralleling, which supposedly cures the lack of bass in the otherwise favored TPA3116.
But, I have not yet taken the time to check it out yet.
It is on the "to do" list.
That is PBTL, the P is for paralleling, which supposedly cures the lack of bass in the otherwise favored TPA3116.
If you wanted a good woofer amp, the TDA8932 is up for it.
I tried it full range and got excellent bass and a really pretty tone (you might not need any eq); however, the factory gain setting is too high, making it overly placid, and that causes a lack of imaging/3d/realism/resolution. Really/overly stable concert amplifiers do sound exactly like that though. The TDA8932 probably bargained away some high end resolution in trade for the extra power, goodly bass, excellent dynamics and enhanced durability of outright placidity. That is how to make a bass amp.
This is an ideal partner to a high-res mids-and-treble amplifier. The hookup is not problematic, so long as your speaker has an ordinary parallel style (very common) crossover. Let the TDA8932 take the woofer load off your high-spec amp so that it can perform better. That's kind of what bi-amp ideals are for.
Also practically efficient. It did really pound out the bass to a 4 ohm woofer, with a 2 amp source, and nothing faltered. It wasn't quite trouser flapping bass; however, I was forcefully entertained and enjoyed it. It did shake the garage door. That board is credit card size and it never got hot. In my opinion, that thing is highly efficient.
Edit: "Music Power Resolution" compared with the TA2020? The TDA8932 will take it. New production TA2020 clips very early, usually ruining the presentation. However, TDA8932 didn't have very much resolution to begin with, but is far more powerful and thus, in a head-to-head competition, will barely manage to beat the TA2020, unless you had intended to listen at whisper quiet levels that the TA2020 could do with adequate resolution. Yes, the TDA8932 can beat that, not every time, but rather every time you crank up the volume knob. I did crank up the volume knob, and then I thought the new production Chinese TA2020 strictly disappointing, and the TDA8932 passably accurate, with the bonus of a rather beautiful tone. Neither performed top-notch full band; however, only one of them did get the job done fairly well.
Conclusion: I wouldn't hesitate to use the TA8932 for portables, in full bandwith, because the tone issue is awfully hard to manage with portables, and you won't have any tone trouble from that amp. However, for in-home use, I'd have to say that the TDA8932 is supposed to be a woofer/bass amp.
I tried it full range and got excellent bass and a really pretty tone (you might not need any eq); however, the factory gain setting is too high, making it overly placid, and that causes a lack of imaging/3d/realism/resolution. Really/overly stable concert amplifiers do sound exactly like that though. The TDA8932 probably bargained away some high end resolution in trade for the extra power, goodly bass, excellent dynamics and enhanced durability of outright placidity. That is how to make a bass amp.
This is an ideal partner to a high-res mids-and-treble amplifier. The hookup is not problematic, so long as your speaker has an ordinary parallel style (very common) crossover. Let the TDA8932 take the woofer load off your high-spec amp so that it can perform better. That's kind of what bi-amp ideals are for.
Also practically efficient. It did really pound out the bass to a 4 ohm woofer, with a 2 amp source, and nothing faltered. It wasn't quite trouser flapping bass; however, I was forcefully entertained and enjoyed it. It did shake the garage door. That board is credit card size and it never got hot. In my opinion, that thing is highly efficient.
Edit: "Music Power Resolution" compared with the TA2020? The TDA8932 will take it. New production TA2020 clips very early, usually ruining the presentation. However, TDA8932 didn't have very much resolution to begin with, but is far more powerful and thus, in a head-to-head competition, will barely manage to beat the TA2020, unless you had intended to listen at whisper quiet levels that the TA2020 could do with adequate resolution. Yes, the TDA8932 can beat that, not every time, but rather every time you crank up the volume knob. I did crank up the volume knob, and then I thought the new production Chinese TA2020 strictly disappointing, and the TDA8932 passably accurate, with the bonus of a rather beautiful tone. Neither performed top-notch full band; however, only one of them did get the job done fairly well.
Conclusion: I wouldn't hesitate to use the TA8932 for portables, in full bandwith, because the tone issue is awfully hard to manage with portables, and you won't have any tone trouble from that amp. However, for in-home use, I'd have to say that the TDA8932 is supposed to be a woofer/bass amp.
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Best value board-only seems to be the dual-chip TPA3116. I prefer my WLX/Breeze board though. Possibly because it's pretty much finished in a home built case and I've got used to it as it arrived first.
There are a few 1x100W "mono" boards around but I've not used them.
For an amp-in-a-box solution, the Breeze 2.0 or SMSL SA60 are reasonable solutions. Though you'd need to supply an SMPS brick or LPS for the Breeze. I use a Thinkpad 16V 3+Amp.
Quality of supplied power is critical. A good SMPS or LPS or batteries...
For car use Sure electronics offer a a number of boost converters for car use.
Sure Electronics' webstore BOOST Converter
...Though their TPA3116 amps are not the best and are expensive IMO.
There are a few 1x100W "mono" boards around but I've not used them.
For an amp-in-a-box solution, the Breeze 2.0 or SMSL SA60 are reasonable solutions. Though you'd need to supply an SMPS brick or LPS for the Breeze. I use a Thinkpad 16V 3+Amp.
Quality of supplied power is critical. A good SMPS or LPS or batteries...
For car use Sure electronics offer a a number of boost converters for car use.
Sure Electronics' webstore BOOST Converter
...Though their TPA3116 amps are not the best and are expensive IMO.
I just played with that dual chip TPA3116 PBTL.
It has observed performance parameters suitable for use with your television. The voices on movie soundtracks will be quite loud and clear. For high power use, TPA3116 needs a separate woofer or subwoofer amplifier to take the load off it (due to voltage range, as listed in the datasheet). It is not bass shy, but does have the loud midrange typical of "aim for low gain" approaches that don't run perfectly stable all of the time with a real speaker. Not only does that problem compromise the audible tonality but it also reduces the efficiency. As I said, it will work great with the TV. Benefits include, extremely high resolution, excellent imaging, and excellent noise rejection. These have nothing to do with the chip itself, because you can readily do that with any amp if you set the gain low enough to compromise the tonality and efficiency.
It cannot and will not beat or even approach the TDA8932 for use with your portable, such as the Boominator.
What I'd like to know is: Where is the middle ground?
It has observed performance parameters suitable for use with your television. The voices on movie soundtracks will be quite loud and clear. For high power use, TPA3116 needs a separate woofer or subwoofer amplifier to take the load off it (due to voltage range, as listed in the datasheet). It is not bass shy, but does have the loud midrange typical of "aim for low gain" approaches that don't run perfectly stable all of the time with a real speaker. Not only does that problem compromise the audible tonality but it also reduces the efficiency. As I said, it will work great with the TV. Benefits include, extremely high resolution, excellent imaging, and excellent noise rejection. These have nothing to do with the chip itself, because you can readily do that with any amp if you set the gain low enough to compromise the tonality and efficiency.
It cannot and will not beat or even approach the TDA8932 for use with your portable, such as the Boominator.
What I'd like to know is: Where is the middle ground?
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