Hi All,
I am looking to shore up my Axiom M22s in the mid bass region. I was thinking of building 2 sealed bass bottoms for them (~2 cubic feet) to handle maybe between 80-200 hz. I also plan on building a sub but the driver is on backorder at the moment.
So...What makes a good mid bass driver? I was looking at the Dayton RS270-8 10" but I'm not sure.
I'll be crossing these over using a minidsp setup.
Thanks
I am looking to shore up my Axiom M22s in the mid bass region. I was thinking of building 2 sealed bass bottoms for them (~2 cubic feet) to handle maybe between 80-200 hz. I also plan on building a sub but the driver is on backorder at the moment.
So...What makes a good mid bass driver? I was looking at the Dayton RS270-8 10" but I'm not sure.
I'll be crossing these over using a minidsp setup.
Thanks
Hi All,
I am looking to shore up my Axiom M22s in the mid bass region. I was thinking of building 2 sealed bass bottoms for them (~2 cubic feet) to handle maybe between 80-200 hz. I also plan on building a sub but the driver is on backorder at the moment.
So...What makes a good mid bass driver? I was looking at the Dayton RS270-8 10" but I'm not sure.
I'll be crossing these over using a minidsp setup.
Thanks
Best midbass is one that has an extended upper frequency response of 2kHz, best would be above 5kHz with low breakup. The mechanical reason is lighter cones with sufficient motor strength have an improved transient capability that carries through lower down. This is what is referred to as fast sounding. Problem is this normally requires a cone that is on the flimsy side and totally unlike bullet proof mega watt subs. Classic example is an old Altec 515
crazypete,
If building a sub why building a "mid bass" speaker pair plus a sub, and not building 2 good subs?! It might all depend on the layout of the listening room, I guess. It's (more) easy to implement a speaker + sub pair, having in consideration the crossover frequencies you are going to use, but I'm also looking forward to the results of your idea.
If building a sub why building a "mid bass" speaker pair plus a sub, and not building 2 good subs?! It might all depend on the layout of the listening room, I guess. It's (more) easy to implement a speaker + sub pair, having in consideration the crossover frequencies you are going to use, but I'm also looking forward to the results of your idea.
crazypete,
If building a sub why building a "mid bass" speaker pair plus a sub, and not building 2 good subs?! It might all depend on the layout of the listening room, I guess. It's (more) easy to implement a speaker + sub pair, having in consideration the crossover frequencies you are going to use, but I'm also looking forward to the results of your idea.
Modal distribution is one, the other would likely be related to transient clarity.
Am working on the same problem, using a similar but different approach.
Classic example is an old Altec 515
Yeah, mine will probably have to be pried from my cold, dead hands, so to speak.
GM
Best midbass is one that has an extended upper frequency response of 2kHz, best would be above 5kHz with low breakup. The mechanical reason is lighter cones with sufficient motor strength have an improved transient capability that carries through lower down. This is what is referred to as fast sounding. Problem is this normally requires a cone that is on the flimsy side and totally unlike bullet proof mega watt subs. Classic example is an old Altec 515
So you are not saying to cross over the speakers a 2 kHz, but that they should be good through that range, correct? And that I would like to go for something with a low QTS (below .3?) and a high QMS, right?
If that is true the Dayton RS270-8 may not be the best choice since the QTS=0.4 and the QMS is 1.75.
Maybe these are closer to what I'm looking for? http://www.parts-express.com/eminence-delta-10a-10-midrange-driver-8-ohm--290-412
Regards,
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crazypete,
If building a sub why building a "mid bass" speaker pair plus a sub, and not building 2 good subs?! It might all depend on the layout of the listening room, I guess. It's (more) easy to implement a speaker + sub pair, having in consideration the crossover frequencies you are going to use, but I'm also looking forward to the results of your idea.
I guess I figured that with 2 good subs I would still not cross them over above 100 Hz, so I would still want something for the midbass - am I wrong about that? And since subs are not directional one would be good enough. I'm planning on using the Dayton UM18-22 if they ever come in in a ~300 L sealed box. I plan on setting it in the middle of the room as an end table beside the couch.
12pe32
Delta 10A
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Delta 10A
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Hello,
This sounds like a strange combination. (I use Axioms for my HT setup and a 3 way horn setup for my 2 channel system.) The speaker is fine for what it does down to about 60 hz. You will have to filter the Axioms and then hope for a seamless and good match in a critical region. Maybe it can work but there a lot of potential pitfalls here IMO.
Jim D.
This sounds like a strange combination. (I use Axioms for my HT setup and a 3 way horn setup for my 2 channel system.) The speaker is fine for what it does down to about 60 hz. You will have to filter the Axioms and then hope for a seamless and good match in a critical region. Maybe it can work but there a lot of potential pitfalls here IMO.
Jim D.
Why would the setup be difficult to implement? From what little I understand I can treat the axoim's as a single driver from a crossover point of view, so it shouldn't be much different than building a three-way (axioms, mid bass bottoms and sub), right? I plan on using a minisharc to implement the crossovers and any phase correction (if it is really needed).
I'm not sure about Inductor's suggestion about using a bandpass design. I thought those were mostly used to get an spl bump in a desired range? For midbass I feel pretty confident that I won't need an spl boost (I have a fair bit of amp power at my disposal). I'm also lazy and would rather make a simple sealed system. I'm looking for tight articulate midbass. So my question is what should I look for (in terms of T-S parameters) in a driver for a sealed system?
I'm not sure about Inductor's suggestion about using a bandpass design. I thought those were mostly used to get an spl bump in a desired range? For midbass I feel pretty confident that I won't need an spl boost (I have a fair bit of amp power at my disposal). I'm also lazy and would rather make a simple sealed system. I'm looking for tight articulate midbass. So my question is what should I look for (in terms of T-S parameters) in a driver for a sealed system?
... I'm also lazy and would rather make a simple sealed system. I'm looking for tight articulate midbass. So my question is what should I look for (in terms of T-S parameters) in a driver for a sealed system?
You need a driver that does 80-200Hz in a sealed system...2 sealed bass bottoms for them (~2 cubic feet) to handle maybe between 80-200 hz
The 10" Emi doesn't.
By all means give it a go if you all the tools. I like experiments. But you have to introduce more components and I try to minimize.
My approach would be to leave the axiom alone and build a tapped horn for 80/60 hz and below. I think you may find that a solid bottom in that's region makes the mid bass sound more prominent. Sounds like you need bass anyway. Or wait and build the sub you planned on building.
Let us know how it works out.
Regards
Jim
My approach would be to leave the axiom alone and build a tapped horn for 80/60 hz and below. I think you may find that a solid bottom in that's region makes the mid bass sound more prominent. Sounds like you need bass anyway. Or wait and build the sub you planned on building.
Let us know how it works out.
Regards
Jim
You need a driver that does 80-200Hz in a sealed system...
The 10" Emi doesn't.
Um.. yeah. I just modeled it in WinISD. Should have done that before opening my mouth...
My approach would be to leave the axiom alone...
And to explain I'm leaving the axioms alone only for the moment. I do plan on upgrading at some point, but one of the things I like about using the minidsp system is that I can save up for and build each component separately, and then integrate them into the system when they're ready. I'm upgrading the sub and mid bass regions first since that is where I feel the system is weakest.
I'm going to order drivers in the next week or so. By budget is ~ $100/ speaker. I've narrowed it down to:
1 X Dayton RS270-8 10"/ speaker
2 X HiVi M8a/ speaker
1 X Seas L22RN4X/ speaker
Since they all model fine for the region I need (80 Hz to maybe 500 Hz, not sure) I may just pick whichever I think looks coolest unless someone has strong opinions.
I'm going to order drivers in the next week or so. By budget is ~ $100/ speaker. I've narrowed it down to:
1 X Dayton RS270-8 10"/ speaker
2 X HiVi M8a/ speaker
1 X Seas L22RN4X/ speaker
Since they all model fine for the region I need (80 Hz to maybe 500 Hz, not sure) I may just pick whichever I think looks coolest unless someone has strong opinions.
It's not my turf, DSP and drivers.1 X Seas L22RN4X/ speaker...
But, that driver works great in 14L sealed for that effect. So does this one.
I prefer to play with paper cones anyway...
Seas 8" CD22RN4X - H1192
Also in a 14/15L sealed *
Dayton Audio RSS210HO-4 8" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm | 295-458
Dayton Audio RSS210HO-4 8" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm
In a 22L sealed another good option for that frequency range is ScanSpeak Discovery 26W/4558T 10"
* (aluminum cone with high Mms)
Have fun with your experiments and stay
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