Hi guys
Im making a speaker for some outdoor concerts, and Im struggling a bit. I need a tweeter. I find it hard to find something in the realm of 95 dB sensitivity, and was wondering if you had any suggestions. It would be fine, if it was some waveguide or something that did the trick. As long as I land on something, where I don’t have to lower the sensitivity on my woofer. (As it is an outdoor build on batteries. I want it to play as loud as possible)
Thanks!
The frequency response of the FaitalPro 10” that I have laying around looks like this.
Im making a speaker for some outdoor concerts, and Im struggling a bit. I need a tweeter. I find it hard to find something in the realm of 95 dB sensitivity, and was wondering if you had any suggestions. It would be fine, if it was some waveguide or something that did the trick. As long as I land on something, where I don’t have to lower the sensitivity on my woofer. (As it is an outdoor build on batteries. I want it to play as loud as possible)
Thanks!
The frequency response of the FaitalPro 10” that I have laying around looks like this.
#Nisbeth
Funny you mentioned the H2606. I have looked at it for quite a while, but the 15k drop off scares me. plus the off axis! Does it still sound good?
Funny you mentioned the H2606. I have looked at it for quite a while, but the 15k drop off scares me. plus the off axis! Does it still sound good?
I've never listened to it because I've never needed anything with that kind of efficiency, but if I did I would definitely try it. There are several respected designs with it I think (or the older Peerless/Vifa versions) and the Heissman test is pretty positive as well (https://heissmann-acoustics.de/test-scan-speak-discovery-h2606-920000/).
The off-axis performance seems to be pretty much what you trade off for the WG-assisted increase in sensitvity, but whether it is a real problem depends on your specific application I think.
The off-axis performance seems to be pretty much what you trade off for the WG-assisted increase in sensitvity, but whether it is a real problem depends on your specific application I think.
https://www.morelhifi.com/en/products/raw-drivers/classic-advanced-37/cat-378-419
This is nominally 93 dB, but it might work... I've used it once in a large WWMT 3-way and it sounds great, very "Morel smooth". It depends on how the FaitalPro's FR was measured: if it's an IEC baffle (likely), once in a box you will have some diffraction loss to compensate for, so the Morel might work just fine. Or you may be OK with a slightly tilted downwards FR, à la Troels.
This is nominally 93 dB, but it might work... I've used it once in a large WWMT 3-way and it sounds great, very "Morel smooth". It depends on how the FaitalPro's FR was measured: if it's an IEC baffle (likely), once in a box you will have some diffraction loss to compensate for, so the Morel might work just fine. Or you may be OK with a slightly tilted downwards FR, à la Troels.
Here are some that might work for you:
https://hificompass.com/en/speakers...eld_vas_value[min]=0&field_vas_value[max]=600
Personally I would select Morel TSCT1104 or BlieSMa T34A-4 out of these tweeters.
Even and low distortion with linear frequency response.
https://hificompass.com/en/speakers...eld_vas_value[min]=0&field_vas_value[max]=600
Personally I would select Morel TSCT1104 or BlieSMa T34A-4 out of these tweeters.
Even and low distortion with linear frequency response.
When you put it in a box, you will have a baffle step loss (at a frequency depending on the width of the box) of 6dB if it works outdoors. When you compensate for that, then you won't need such an efficient tweeter. If the Fatail 10" is a midrange with some big efficient bass driver (15"-18"), then you definitely need an efficient tweeter.
Taking the impedance into account, this Fatail is made in 4 or 8 ohms versions. Both are declared as 96dB 1W/1m. The tweeter should be of the same impedance and sensitivity.
Sensitivity is the output sound pressure level that is measured at 1m when 1 Watt of power is being consumed. At 8-ohms, 1 Watt would be with 2.83V applied. At 4 ohms, 1 Watt would require only 2V. When 2.83V is supplied to the speaker, the 4ohm driver will produce 3dB higher volume than the same 8ohm driver. So you should be careful, the specifications state various data. Also, speaker impedance and sensitivity across the frequency range are variable, so the published data for sensitivity is mostly an average value.
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Hi. Yes i am aware of the problems of measuring 8 ohm drivers as so. This is the 4 ohm version. I think i finally landed on something, that fits my project nicely in price and performance. Thanks for your suggestions!
Hi. Yes i am aware of the problems of measuring 8 ohm drivers as so. This is the 4 ohm version. I think i finally landed on something, that fits my project nicely in price and performance. Thanks for your suggestions!
The problem is hi fi dome tweeters are too inefficient. Yeah, you can get one that will match the sensitivity of a 95dB pro woofer. But it will need to run at full power to keep up - little or no padding. Then it’s only good for 6 watts, maybe 10 of average power at high frequency, and when playing loud you will simply burn them up. Compare that to a compression driver which handles 25 W of power and needs a conservative 6 dB of pad. It takes 100W above the crossover frequency to do any harm. Playing off batteries, you are probably going to be running a small-ish amplifier hard. Everybody knows it’s easier to burn tweeters up that way in general - and inviting it seems like a bad plan.
-6 dB 45 degrees off axis all the way to 20 kHz simply isn’t required for any kind of outdoor PA. If you can get that to say 12 KHz (with no hole in the midrange) you’re doing fine.
-6 dB 45 degrees off axis all the way to 20 kHz simply isn’t required for any kind of outdoor PA. If you can get that to say 12 KHz (with no hole in the midrange) you’re doing fine.
The big air motion transformers from Beyma, Mundorf and ESS got excellent resolution, dynamics and very high spl - but equally high price tag.
Large ribbons can handle more SPL before damage than 1-1/8 inch domes, that’s for sure. The $400 AC 7” ribbons can make plenty of racket before fusing, but they will fuse if you overdo it. Are the AMTs as easy to replace diaphragms in?
The most AMTs diaphragms are in a small plastic frame, so they are one of the easiest to switch. They have a completely flat impedance, which makes it very easy to implement a precise limiter setting or build a passive high pass filter for them.
PRVs HF stuff is on the cheap side, and may or may not be “hi fi enough”. If I wanted relatively hi-fi, work with a 10”, and not break the bank I’d go straight to the B&C DE250. Use the PRV stuff for DJing because you will need to replace diaphragms eventually (or all the time, depending on your habits).
Thank y'all for your suggestions. As a starter, i am going to pick something somewhat cheap. The woofer cost me 50 usd, so i want to keep the tweeter somewhat cheap. Im going to vent the woofer and thought i would cross at about 2khz. Would you be worried of the 1st port resonance to be about 2khz aswell? As far as i know, I thought it was supposed to be double the crossover, but im not really sure.
The first port resonance has a frequency with wavelength = 2 × port length.
So a port with length 8,5 cm will have its first resonance at 2 kHz.
You can reduce longitudinal resonance port output by
- directing the port away (to the rear)
- putting damping material (thickness about half wavelength of lowest frequency to be absorbed) behind the driver but still keeping enough free air connection from driver to port
- flaring the port
- keeping the port short
- making resonance absorbers (investigation still in process)