Hi,
There is something severely wrong in using a 0.17 cuft Vas
driver in a sealed 1 cuft cabinet, its just utterly pointless.
Absolute sealed and stuffed useful maximum is 1/3 cuft.
1/4 cuft sealed and stuffed is likely the the most optimum.
rgds, sreten.
There is something severely wrong in using a 0.17 cuft Vas
driver in a sealed 1 cuft cabinet, its just utterly pointless.
Absolute sealed and stuffed useful maximum is 1/3 cuft.
1/4 cuft sealed and stuffed is likely the the most optimum.
rgds, sreten.
Last edited:
Depends on what you're looking for, both in terms of EQ'd low frequency f3 (and f10) and SPL levels. There are limits, obviously, to what kind of subwoofing you can really do with small drivers. Let us know what you're hoping for, and someone can do some sims for you.
I figured that could be a starting point and I can cut it down in increments. The good thing about tubes they are easier to tune. I would rather start to big than too small. I guess 1ft was overkill 😱
Im not looking for crazy spl's of course. Ill be using them with really small proac's that Im not overly hard on. I put for mini subs on order. If two dont do it 4 should help. More so depending how they sound corner loaded in my rectangular room.
I have the ends and braces all cut /sanded to fit nice and snug after gluing. I just have to cut some tubes down.
I cut my tubes to have 16" 1/4 cu ft chambers. Thanks for help with that streten. I thought I should make false floors and seal in a few ounces of brass shavings, after the fact. I picked solid maple slats to make Y bases which will hold a 1" carbide spike in each end. My goal is to make them as dead as possible and try not let any colouration creep in. I think the tube material itself should also counter act that. Its quite ridged and strong but a little softer than MDF. I might have to cut more I do like the thought of metal deadening weight for added insurance. Maybe one so I can compare difference.
Early stages. I dont think I would of considered making subs this small until hearing some rel T-Zero's. If these can only sound as musical.
The jig saw is my least favorite tool. No batter how careful I am I the blade always flexes and wanders. Mines a cheapo that lacks roller bearing guides.
My 1/2" end caps are cut. For the baffles I dont think Ill double them up, I dont see any point. There will be so little material left there after there cut for drivers. they will have plenty of support from the side walls.
Ill 90 up the other edges outside with the belt if it ever stops raining. Then ready for gorilla glue.
I think a light maple veneer wrap will look cool, match the bases and contrast well against the black TB drivers.
The jig saw is my least favorite tool. No batter how careful I am I the blade always flexes and wanders. Mines a cheapo that lacks roller bearing guides.
My 1/2" end caps are cut. For the baffles I dont think Ill double them up, I dont see any point. There will be so little material left there after there cut for drivers. they will have plenty of support from the side walls.
Ill 90 up the other edges outside with the belt if it ever stops raining. Then ready for gorilla glue.
I think a light maple veneer wrap will look cool, match the bases and contrast well against the black TB drivers.
Attachments
Last edited:
Taking advantage of free time this weekend and made some more progress. I squared up my caps and 3/4 birch ply braces then proceeded to cut some vents. Given sub size I think one brace per sub will be more than adequate.
It was getting near time to put the drill down, I know its time when I start rushing and make a stupid mistake. I realized I put the 2 1/8" brace holes slightly too close to centre.
If I had of moved each a 1/4" away from centre I would of had enough meat left between each hole. If I drill the other two there will be less that 1/4 of support between each.
I somehow doubt staying with two vents per brace is sufficient or efficient. I may have to go out and buy a smaller circle circle saw and get two more drilled. Or cut another brace. What do you experienced guys think about leaving them as is with two per brace?
Other than that hicup things are going well. These will be tighter than a funeral drum. I cant wait to compare sound with my baby miller & kreisels. I might go out and by a mic to help with the final tuning and to test final results. I hope to build more speakers through the winter and a mic would be good to have.
Amplification will be a two way hypex with built in DSP.
Thanks for dropping by.
It was getting near time to put the drill down, I know its time when I start rushing and make a stupid mistake. I realized I put the 2 1/8" brace holes slightly too close to centre.
If I had of moved each a 1/4" away from centre I would of had enough meat left between each hole. If I drill the other two there will be less that 1/4 of support between each.
I somehow doubt staying with two vents per brace is sufficient or efficient. I may have to go out and buy a smaller circle circle saw and get two more drilled. Or cut another brace. What do you experienced guys think about leaving them as is with two per brace?
Other than that hicup things are going well. These will be tighter than a funeral drum. I cant wait to compare sound with my baby miller & kreisels. I might go out and by a mic to help with the final tuning and to test final results. I hope to build more speakers through the winter and a mic would be good to have.
Amplification will be a two way hypex with built in DSP.
Thanks for dropping by.
Attachments
Last edited:
- Status
- Not open for further replies.