The Castanet kit seems to be discontinued. Maybe if you ask nicely Hagtech might send you a circuit diagram... click: Hagerman Technology LLC
The manual is on their website and the schematic is in that file. I studied the circuit; they are fond of chokes. That must be one clean B+ from judging from that power supply drawing. Of course 8 batteries might be cheaper😀
The use of that transformer and tube pair for impedance matching with headphones is pretty clever.
I studied the circuit; they are fond of chokes. That must be one clean B+ from judging from that power supply drawing. Of course 8 batteries might be cheaper😀
Those chokes and transformers are pretty inexpensive, actually. I think you can get away with a lot when the output is measured in mW?
Some excellent suggestions here - the Castanet and a MapleTreeAudio are both on my 'to build' list here.....
John
I'd stay away from the Vaarde OTL. I built it as starting point, did a thousand mods ending with a completely different beast. ditto for the other 3 tube 6N1P OTL at headwize. Not what you're looking for.
For what you're asking for, if you want to go the DIY path, I'd start with a Pete Millett MOSFET Hybrid MAX. I've built it (and other hybrids, like several SOHA variants) and will fullfill what you're looking for, it's also not expensive even MAXXed out, tons of people built it, so it's a very polished project with tons of information. dunno if PCBs are still available, I'd do some searching.
Keep in mind your source will have a big impact on the overall sound. Have you tried a non-os DAC based on paralleled TDA1543?
For what you're asking for, if you want to go the DIY path, I'd start with a Pete Millett MOSFET Hybrid MAX. I've built it (and other hybrids, like several SOHA variants) and will fullfill what you're looking for, it's also not expensive even MAXXed out, tons of people built it, so it's a very polished project with tons of information. dunno if PCBs are still available, I'd do some searching.
Keep in mind your source will have a big impact on the overall sound. Have you tried a non-os DAC based on paralleled TDA1543?
Nice one. Swapping the 7k5 3W resistor for a 15mA CCS might be an easy, cheap and worthwhile upgrade.Buy the kit or bootleg this one and build it on a standard Hammond chassis. Nice starting point for a headphone amplifier.
http://hollowstate.netfirms.com/epluskitmanual.pdf
I'm currently contemplating an ultra cheap parafeed CCS headphone amp using 6Phi4Pi (ECL84/6DX8) and small power trannies for OPT's. Simulations look pretty reasonable so far.
Look for an amp that is able to drive your headphones, I mean the quality should be such that you have no feelings that there is something "in the way". Of course there are audible differences between various types of headphone amps, but as long as we are discussing good amps the differences are not that big, and after all when you have a good set up and are accustomed to it, these minor differences are totally unimportant from a musical perspective.
In the end it is the music that counts is it not?
A well proven design should be the way to go if you want "to be sure".
In the end it is the music that counts is it not?
A well proven design should be the way to go if you want "to be sure".
Another fact: a tube does not have a sound quality, it has characteristics. The characteristics must be manipulated by the circuit designer with the circuit archtecture / topology.
You mean distortion, linearity, current-drive capability etc. has nothing to do with sound quality???
You mean distortion, linearity, current-drive capability etc. has nothing to do with sound quality???
Hehehe, this is good! 😛
I guess he meant: "a tube by itself can't bring good sound quality, it has characteriistics that should be driven by a state of the art circuit to achieve ideal excellent sound quality". His intention indirectly counter mentioned mine: I'm looking for the best state of the art circuit at my budget that could achieve the best ideal possible sound quality.
BTW, @pieter t: I wish in the end music would be just the only thing that counts. Reality is other: We are looking to have a nice time building a circuit while the motivation push us with anxiety to hear what would be the final result in sound characteristics and quality to add a plus to that music tunes we already know. Such tunes already bring our emotions to the top of the hill, but why not rise them to the clouds and beyond? 😉 We don't just feed our emotions (as others) but our ego (at looking our final result, auto-complimenting ourselves and receiving compliments by others for something made by our hands) and also our reason (by building the circuit and testing once more our knowledge in electronics, etc). In the end: emotions are risen by the satisfation of something self-done, received compliments and exercised knowledge, sound quality and characteristics will remind you that every time you listen your already loved tune!

Had built the Mapletree EAR, Millet hybrid, miniMax Millett and the Bottlehead Crack. Using Senn HD650 with them all. For what it's worth, I'd rate the best value and performance is the Crack. The Max Millet next. In terms of easy to build, maxMillett. For beat bass, maxMillett. Best tweaking and upgrading, the crack. Best mid and highs, crack. My choice for you would be to start with the crack, and that has a great upgrade and tweaking path. The best first tweak is to use as large a film cathode coupling cap as possible to provide lower f-3.
In the end: emotions are risen by the satisfation of something self-done, received compliments and exercised knowledge, sound quality and characteristics will remind you that every time you listen your already loved tune!![]()
Completely agree with that! If the satisfaction of DIY would not be there I'd have to look for another occupation😉.....
You mean distortion, linearity, current-drive capability etc. has nothing to do with sound quality???
I mean a specific tube does not have a specific sound quality. You can apply Tube X correctly and get a good response, or you can apply it incorrectly and get a bad response. Your choice.
Had built the Mapletree EAR, Millet hybrid, miniMax Millett and the Bottlehead Crack. Using Senn HD650 with them all. For what it's worth, I'd rate the best value and performance is the Crack. The Max Millet next. In terms of easy to build, maxMillett. For beat bass, maxMillett. Best tweaking and upgrading, the crack. Best mid and highs, crack. My choice for you would be to start with the crack, and that has a great upgrade and tweaking path. The best first tweak is to use as large a film cathode coupling cap as possible to provide lower f-3.
I'm afraid this is the answer I was looking for, lol!!
I've being wondering what would be the difference between the Millet and the Crack, here the bad is that the guy at Bottlehead never answered my question about payment options and international delivery.
Thank you
If the 19J6 was still easy to get, I would recommend Pete Millet's hybrid "Starving Student". Very nice for the low price, the 19J6/Mosfet bettered my EF86 (triode connected) -> 6922 White Cathode follower headphone amplifier.
However this circuit became popular enough that the 19J6 prices have gone up. Other tubes can be used but circuit values must change.
However this circuit became popular enough that the 19J6 prices have gone up. Other tubes can be used but circuit values must change.
If the 19J6 was still easy to get, I would recommend Pete Millet's hybrid "Starving Student". Very nice for the low price, the 19J6/Mosfet bettered my EF86 (triode connected) -> 6922 White Cathode follower headphone amplifier.
However this circuit became popular enough that the 19J6 prices have gone up. Other tubes can be used but circuit values must change.
So this one with 19J6/Mosfet would be the best for a Starving Student circuit? Any opinions versus the Hybrid MiniMax?
Have bought stuff from Bottlehead before, not the best email contact, but postage was quick and I have not had any problems in my three purchase history shipping to Australia. Try their forum for more answers. The good thing with Crack is that the tubes are still chea, with heaps of alternates ranging from $3 Russians to $100 NOS.
In that blog Broskie was talking about his PS6 kit which supplies +/-40v or a lower voltage and a high voltage + supply. Hence his OTL design used +/-40V and +190v or whatever it was. He also has a low voltage Aikido that can be used as a headphone amp thar runs off 24V. He sells all the kit parts minus transformers, plug sockets, etc. That is also quite safe as a first project. Read through his blog, quite a lot of headphone stuff as well, as he is into it. But be careful as sometimes he is continuing a thought from several blogs ago, or several blog entries at once, that is, the info and knowledge is built from previous entries.
Jim Hagerman still sells the Castanet boards. I bought one and it arrived yesterday. $149, shipping is free. Just send a paypal payment to <private info removed>
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