I can´t find a connector called "subwoofer signal out", only menu settings referring to it, and apparently speaker out from its internal power amp(s). can you please show it here?Yes I have a multimeter what do I measure and where?
Because normal procedure is to feed the sound source an audio tone, here you would play back:
https://www.mediacollege.com/audio/tone/files/100Hz_44100Hz_16bit_30sec.mp3 ,
set output to maximum possible and measure what signal level (in millivolts) you have there, available to drive the power amps.
From another posts I read 1.2V=1200mV RMS are needed to fully drive those amps, we are checking if you reach that or not.
Well ladies and gentlemen I got it. Lfe + Main made a huge difference. It works flawless. Thank you everyone for your help. I check the voltage on lfe alone and was not getting 1.2v changed it to lfe+main and now getting 1.2v. Not sure why but it sounds great. Thanks a million times over. I can plan a movie night this Friday for the kidos. Also I will be changing these rca out for rca to 1/4. These rca are old and not shielded.
Now I just have to do a audyssey tune with the mic. Final question on the Mic if anyone know. Where should I tune it from, the room is like a small theater 130 or so seats. Is it ok to add an extension?
Wow! That's a HUGE room! Unless those speakers are very high efficiency, my suggestion is connect the speakers to NIX-6000X4 via SR6011 preouts to prevent overheating the receiver. Please try play a movie or two with high playback level to be sure the receiver will not shout itself down during playback.the room is like a small theater 130 or so seats.
Yeah will be using the 6 NIX-6000X4s and the 2 marantz avrs will power mainly the heights and some sides. Will be using most of the pre out for fronts and backs and some side. Putting the heavy weights on the power amps. Have another older avr going to hook up to bass shakers for the deaf kids so they can feel the sound.
You want to average 8 positions around the room, with the mic on a stand at listening head height, with direct line of sight to the speakers. 50' from the AVR to the mic is the maximum length that Audyssey recommends to avoid the high frequency losses from the relatively high mic impedance.Now I just have to do a audyssey tune with the mic. Final question on the Mic if anyone know. Where should I tune it from, the room is like a small theater 130 or so seats. Is it ok to add an extension?
Too long a cord could result in more high end EQ added, an overly "bright" sound.
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Ok thanks will be tuning it todayYou want to average 8 positions around the room, with the mic on a stand at listening head height, with direct line of sight to the speakers. 50' from the AVR to the mic is the maximum length that Audyssey recommends to avoid the high frequency losses from the relatively high mic impedance.
Too long a cord could result in more high end EQ added, an overly "bright" sound.
HAPPY everything went fine and those kids enjoyed the night. 🙂Thank you everyone for your help we had movie night and everything went awesome. Speakers were alittle under powered but one of the supporters was there and is going to buy some more powerful amps and subwoofers. The bass was alittle low with all the kiddos yelling.
Somewhat intrigued by the statement highlighted above.
On the original post you mentioned:
My pocket calculator tells me that you already have 6*4*750=18000 Watts available.I was donated two marantz sr6011 avrs and 6 sound town nx 4 channel amps 750 watts per channel. Last but least about 30 speakers.
You sure you need more power?
On the other side you only mention 2 12" subwoofers, I think that is your bottleneck which should be solved.
Couldn´t care less about the "800 W" claimed subwoofer rating, for real lows you need to move air, lots of it, so besides throw, which has its own limitations, you need surface, measured in sq. inches or centimeters, whichever you prefer.
I bet those 12" subs are excellent for an average living room, but for a 130 seat Auditorium you need PRO subwoofers, PA type, not home type, typically 15" speakers if not 18".
4 of them would be fine.
Just saying, so your generous sponsor gets best bang for the buck, literally.
Again, you are doing a GOOD thing with those kids 🙂
Long shot but might it be VU insteal of dB? 0 VU is -12dB (according to my Behringer DEQ2496's meters)...The level lights are -12, -6, 0, +6, +12 and clip, an unconventional labeling scheme, normally the last indicator light on an amplifier before clip should be "0dB".
View attachment 1055133
Each increase of 6dB should be equivalent to increasing power by 4 times.
Assuming the amp can produce 375 watts per channel into 8ohms at clip, the indicator lights should indicate reaching these power levels:
-12 =1.46 watts
-6 =5.86 watts ("2 notches up")
0=23.435 watts
+6=93.75 watts
+12= 375 watts
At "-6" on the NIX-6000X4, your sub is about -18dB from what it could produce at full power. -10dB sounds half as loud, so what you are hearing is about 1/4 as loud as it would be if the amp was driven to it's potential.
The Marantz SR6011 is capable of only 1.2volt output, 3.8dBU.
I could not find any specifications on the NIX-6000X4 other than output.
It is possible the NIX-6000X4 amp may require a +12 dBU (about 3volts RMS) input for full power, which would require an additional pre-amp ("line booster") to achieve.
Run a 60 Hz sine wave into the SR6011, measure the sub output level at the end of the RCA cord with a voltmeter to determine if it is reaching it's full 1.2volt output before purchasing a pre-amp.
Art
"VU" stands for Volume Unit, 0 VU is equal to 1.23 Volts RMS, equal to +4dBu.Long shot but might it be VU insteal of dB? 0 VU is -12dB (according to my Behringer DEQ2496's meters)...
http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-db-volt.htm
The OP wrote this morning "Speakers were a little under powered", but did not mention if the amplifier(s) were driven to clip, nor the quantity of "Dayton 12 inch subwoofer in a homemade in closer"..
Art
It.s 1.228V but who's counting...
This is what I'm referrring to... Now that I look at it, -16 looks like where 0VU shoudl be and -12 looks like 3 VU
This is what I'm referrring to... Now that I look at it, -16 looks like where 0VU shoudl be and -12 looks like 3 VU
Thanks for the info.
Yeah we are thinking the same thing; the sponsor and me; we were talking about a few 15s or 18s. But if we get something that size maybe a new amp just for those. Everything in this theater was donated from the construction to the seats to the electronics. I am just the front man piecing the puzzle together. Also was thinking to take some strain off the marantz avrs maybe a more efficient amp setup for the heights and sides. One of our sponsors friends mentioned he could get a few outlaw 7 channel amps for us for free. I am like hey we will take anything you want to donate.
Thanks again
Yeah we are thinking the same thing; the sponsor and me; we were talking about a few 15s or 18s. But if we get something that size maybe a new amp just for those. Everything in this theater was donated from the construction to the seats to the electronics. I am just the front man piecing the puzzle together. Also was thinking to take some strain off the marantz avrs maybe a more efficient amp setup for the heights and sides. One of our sponsors friends mentioned he could get a few outlaw 7 channel amps for us for free. I am like hey we will take anything you want to donate.
Thanks again
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