Dynaudio Woofers are not bad.
I have not yet bought any Dynaudio Woofer,
but have noticed that speakers,
with Dynaudio Woofers in low bass
9 times out of 10 get good reviews
when is comes to listenig impression
regarding low bass caracteristics.
So I wouldn't mind building a loudspeaker
with one of Dynaudio's bigger Bass woofers.
A side note,
but this an alternative for you, Axeman.
Not for ultimate SPL, sound pressure level,
but we are talking about a Car, aren't we?
It is nice to able to stay in the Car
while listening........ 😛
groman
like driving as well as
drivers
I have not yet bought any Dynaudio Woofer,
but have noticed that speakers,
with Dynaudio Woofers in low bass
9 times out of 10 get good reviews
when is comes to listenig impression
regarding low bass caracteristics.
So I wouldn't mind building a loudspeaker
with one of Dynaudio's bigger Bass woofers.
A side note,
but this an alternative for you, Axeman.
Not for ultimate SPL, sound pressure level,
but we are talking about a Car, aren't we?
It is nice to able to stay in the Car
while listening........ 😛
groman
like driving as well as
drivers
Hi gromanswe
Me too would still purchase Dynaudio drivers if they were still avilable. But unfortunately they signed a deal with some strange car manufacturer 😉 who is purchasing a big part of their driver productions, so they are not available to the DIY community anymore (apart from some drivers that are still in stock at some resellers). I know that they still sell a range of car-audio drivers but I think they are not intended for brute-force SPLs.
I think axeman would prefer to go on with the driver he is already using. But then we would like to know what box (size, construction ...) he is using it with and what TS parameters this driver has. Maybe he is using too large a box (or one with thin walls only) for this driver giving less protection against overexcursion (and less than optimal frequency response due to very low Qtc).
Regards
Charles
Me too would still purchase Dynaudio drivers if they were still avilable. But unfortunately they signed a deal with some strange car manufacturer 😉 who is purchasing a big part of their driver productions, so they are not available to the DIY community anymore (apart from some drivers that are still in stock at some resellers). I know that they still sell a range of car-audio drivers but I think they are not intended for brute-force SPLs.
I think axeman would prefer to go on with the driver he is already using. But then we would like to know what box (size, construction ...) he is using it with and what TS parameters this driver has. Maybe he is using too large a box (or one with thin walls only) for this driver giving less protection against overexcursion (and less than optimal frequency response due to very low Qtc).
Regards
Charles
Positec Protection
Hello KarlP, The POSITEC protection thermistors do not affect sonics substantially unless operating near to the device threshold point, where they will cause a slight compression/breathing but not unpleasant characteristic, and then mute the speaker with sustained overdrive.
There is a range of ratings available to suit different applications.
Regards, Eric.
Hello KarlP, The POSITEC protection thermistors do not affect sonics substantially unless operating near to the device threshold point, where they will cause a slight compression/breathing but not unpleasant characteristic, and then mute the speaker with sustained overdrive.
There is a range of ratings available to suit different applications.
Regards, Eric.
First off: WOW did I ever forget about this thread. Thanks so much for the replies and I'm sorry that I let this one go so long. I was searching my username for another thread and found this!!!
I don't have my exact parameters here with me, but DO know that the box is approx. 20" or so cubed (not a perfect cube of course) and built out of 3/4" plywood. The box was designed using the woofer's specs(there's another thread on THAT topic.. ) The woofer is a pyramid car audio driver. Amazingly, this doesn't suck. In this box, it's very loud, and linear. I haven't even stuffed it yet. I upgraded my amp to a partsexpress 250W'er- and I don't think I've bottomed out since. It's been so long that I'm not sure if I ever even bottomed out- could have been the amp I was using causing the sound I heard. Anyway, the question still applies- there is a point where the bass distorts, and I would like, if possible, to limit the volume to _just_ under that level so I can enjoy loud explosions in movies etc without wondering if it will distort.
As I am using the PE amp, I can't exactly insert components in the chain between the Xover and the amp.. I need something that I can either place between the amp and the sub, or between my receiver and the PE amp. Preferably, I could adjust the threshold where the limiting takes place.
Thanks again,
Phil
I don't have my exact parameters here with me, but DO know that the box is approx. 20" or so cubed (not a perfect cube of course) and built out of 3/4" plywood. The box was designed using the woofer's specs(there's another thread on THAT topic.. ) The woofer is a pyramid car audio driver. Amazingly, this doesn't suck. In this box, it's very loud, and linear. I haven't even stuffed it yet. I upgraded my amp to a partsexpress 250W'er- and I don't think I've bottomed out since. It's been so long that I'm not sure if I ever even bottomed out- could have been the amp I was using causing the sound I heard. Anyway, the question still applies- there is a point where the bass distorts, and I would like, if possible, to limit the volume to _just_ under that level so I can enjoy loud explosions in movies etc without wondering if it will distort.
As I am using the PE amp, I can't exactly insert components in the chain between the Xover and the amp.. I need something that I can either place between the amp and the sub, or between my receiver and the PE amp. Preferably, I could adjust the threshold where the limiting takes place.
Thanks again,
Phil
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