subs + passive rads + enclosure advise

coolaudio

Member
2016-04-25 11:06 pm
I am looking to upgrade my sound system in my car, I am currently looking to save space too thus the thought of passive radiator setup

I am fairly new to all this audio stuff but have a home 5.1 with passive rads and am impressed with it all. with this said, im not that great with all the technical side of things so sorry for any "dumb" questions / statements I may make

Currently looking for a good quality 600 - 1000w rms 1 or 2 ohm sub with 2x passive rads and some help with enclosure dimensions in the 12" sub region (+ 2x 10" radiators)

I have been looking at the alpine swr-12d2 - currently can get them for approx £130.

as its an upgrade I got the amp & cables and potentially a re-usable enclosure depending on the advise given here.

This is an upgrade from some free old subs I have been given (mutant audio evolution) and thought its about time to upgrade as they wasn't all that good.
the amp is kenwood kac-9105d 1800w max / 900w rms @ 2ohm @ 14.4v / 500w 4ohm 14.4v

for the passive rads, cant find many of them around so not sure whats standard / good in this area

with regards to price, as different places have different prices just list recommendations as I don't mind hunting around for a deal but nothing crazy like £400+ for a sub

space for said enclosure must fit in the boot of my car with a max height of 15", length + width are both over 30" - cutting down from 3 poor quality subs to save space

thanks in advance for your time
 

coolaudio

Member
2016-04-25 11:06 pm
Each to their own really, there must be some demand for them else they would never been made.

For myself anyway its not about number chasing really, its about utilizing what I got, which is 900w rms amp.

while I agree this maybe over kill for a small area such as a car, I probably wont run it at its max in this scenario, however there are times where I have / go to parties, camping out where I can drive the car out and play some loud music for us all.

as mentioned in the previous post the subs where given to me, totaling 600rms, so trying to save space and get better quality from 1 active with radiator, if you have a better suggestion for a lower powered sub then im up for it if its of good quality.
 

Ron E

Member
2002-06-27 10:41 pm
USA, MN
So you want a 12" car subwoofer and 2-10" passives for a box 15x30+x30+ - so around 8-10 cubic feet. Seems like you are dictating design based on numbers that seem palatable to you, before you have even given a thought to what you want to achieve.

Car audio is simply silly. Everyone I know who has put any money into a car system has had it stolen. Everyone. They follow you home.... Two of them had their entire cars stolen and burnt after the stereo was taken out. One guy booby-trapped his stereo with razor blades so the thief decided to take a screwdriver to all of his drivers (and most of his car) instead of stealing them...
 
Wait just a minute, at what age should I have outgrown my car audio addiction. I am starting to think that I may have a problem.:).

Okay back on topic. I spend over 2 hours a day in my work truck, so it's worth it to me to upgrade. I have had my cars broken into as well, but one time they just took a car seat and left the stereo,go figure. I guess that wasn't on topic yet.

It sounds like you have plenty of room for two 12s in a bassreflex design, or go sealed and save even more space. I personally like the sound of sealed subwoofers better than bassreflex in car audio. Bassreflex can get louder, but can sound boomy. Passive radiators are usually used when the box size is too small to fit a properly size port in the enclosure, you won't have this problem if your using the Alpine subwoofers. Hope this was helpful, now I need to get back to my addiction.

Regards,
Matt
 
Car audio is simply silly. Everyone I know who has put any money into a car system has had it stolen. Everyone. They follow you home.... Two of them had their entire cars stolen and burnt after the stereo was taken out. One guy booby-trapped his stereo with razor blades so the thief decided to take a screwdriver to all of his drivers (and most of his car) instead of stealing them...

Ha, my system hasn't been stolen yet, and since I got married and SWMBO took over the living room (oh, almost 25 years ago), in the car is where I do most of my listening to music.

A good 12" driver in a sealed cabinet with about 300W on tap is all that's really needed for most people for in-car subwoofery. I've got two Alpine Type R 12D2s fed with 1.2kW, because I like to have a bit more headroom in my bass :)
 

Ron E

Member
2002-06-27 10:41 pm
USA, MN

coolaudio

Member
2016-04-25 11:06 pm
@reloader650 thanks for the advise
@Andersonix I have only very recently heard of peerless, suggested elsewhere to someone else, they look interesting but with that said the amp has a max freq response of 200 (built in HPF) from what I read these are designed to go way higher than that so they sound kind of wasted atm? is this correct or am I miss understanding something here?
 
Wide bandwidth is a good sign in any driver.
It's hard to choose between these two, as they're so similar you'd think they were made by the same company:
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...s/scanspeak-discovery-30w/4558t-12-subwoofer/
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c.../peerless-835017-xxls-12-aluminum-cone-4-ohm/

My preference is to put free-air woofers (high Qts, >0.5?) in the parcel shelf. That way you get to keep all your trunk space and not need to build any boxes. Must have been almost 20 years ago I made some adapter rings to mount a pair of 8 inch free air woofers in the factory 6.5inch rear deck holes.