Sublime Acoustic K231 opinion

Hi all,

Since my actual crossover - a good sounding cheap device from China - has proven very susceptible to RFI ingress, I'm considering buying the K231 from Sublime Acoustic.

However, besides the 8 reviews on the company website I cannot find any real world review.

I've also emailed them and didn't get any reply, which I find disturbing.

I would like to get some feedback from eventual users, specially regarding sound quality and absence of noise (I use horns, any noise in the chain is amplified and unbearable) but also regarding Sublime Acoustic as a company and eventual after-sales service.
 
I like mine.

I use it with 112db JBL 2435HPL compression driver, Acoustic Elegance TD15M mid and SBP15 bass and there is almost no noise with my ear against the speaker.

I really consider this as an alternative to two Bryston 10Bs as it accepts balanced signal and is low noise enough. It's features of master volume control, baffle width adjustment cannot be found in other crossovers (that i know of)

At its current asking price it is still a good tool. I've used 2 of the chinese crossovers and both are disappointing.
 
You realize that crossover is not optimized for your speakers, actually not to any speaker except a theoretical one?:) I bet you would get better sounding system with a DSP with inferior spec but adjustable slopes and parametric filters. Opinions vary :)

All I need is a fixed 400hz 24dB crossover, and eventually a subwoofer low pass. So in this case that product would suit me just fine :)
 
I like mine.

I use it with 112db JBL 2435HPL compression driver, Acoustic Elegance TD15M mid and SBP15 bass and there is almost no noise with my ear against the speaker.

I really consider this as an alternative to two Bryston 10Bs as it accepts balanced signal and is low noise enough. It's features of master volume control, baffle width adjustment cannot be found in other crossovers (that i know of)

At its current asking price it is still a good tool. I've used 2 of the chinese crossovers and both are disappointing.

How would you describe the sound quality?
 
I like mine.

I use it with 112db JBL 2435HPL compression driver, Acoustic Elegance TD15M mid and SBP15 bass and there is almost no noise with my ear against the speaker.

I really consider this as an alternative to two Bryston 10Bs as it accepts balanced signal and is low noise enough. It's features of master volume control, baffle width adjustment cannot be found in other crossovers (that i know of)

At its current asking price it is still a good tool. I've used 2 of the chinese crossovers and both are disappointing.

How would you describe the sound quality?
 
Okay so I'm almost ready to take the plunge; I've sent the company a message to have them confirm that, in case this crossover would be as (or more) sensitive to RFI as my current device, I could return it for a refund (which is advertised on their website: 45days no hassle return possibility)
 
Let us know how it is. I almost ordered one but decided to try dsp crossover because I’m not sure about crossover points.. haven’t even built my speakers yet

Well, the add-on XO plug-in cards are only 12$ each on their website; but of course if you really have no idea I would start with a DSP.

I will report how it sounds as soon as it's up and running in my system; but I'm convinced it will be much nicer sounding than any (affordable) DSP based device.

So if experimenting with DSP you realize it can be done with an analogue device I would make the switch.
 
I don't want to discourage or be negative, just leaving a note here for future readers:
A ready made generic analog crossover might sound nicer than a cheap DSP solution. But it would be a rare occasion the actual slopes were optimal. So, the system sound won't match what could be achieved with even a cheap adjustable DSP. By system I mean the end result, the sound of the speaker including crossover in a room.

Drivers have their own unique properties, each brand and model and serial number, thus applying a generic filter is shooting from the hip. For example natural roll off of the drivers (+enclosure) is something that affects the acoustic crossover slopes. Adding some predefined electrical slopes to those and the acoustic crossover is not what is expected or required for a "nth order named crossover" one was buying. With DSP crossover filter Q can be adjusted and delay and parametric EQ would allow further refinements.

A ready made generic product might be exactly what is needed, if the speaker is properly measured and then analyzed and concluded that this is the proper electric filter slope required. It is also ok if there is no interest doing any measurements and the aim is to slap some speakers together a bit better than having no crossovers at all.

Shooting from the hip is not prohibited but it is already 2020, simulation software are free and measurement hardware costs less than a single top shelf driver. Only a little trouble for a DIY person to make so much better speaker and get more from the hobby than a simple ego boost :)
 
Last edited:
I don't want to discourage or be negative, just leaving a note here for future readers:
A ready made analog crossover might sound nicer than a cheap DSP solution, especially when its expensive and with flashy marketing text and images. But it would be a rare occasion the actual slopes were optimal. So, the system sound won't match what could be achieved with even a cheap DSP. By system I mean the end result, the sound of the speaker including crossover in a room.

Drivers have their own unique properties, each brand and model and serial number, thus applying a generic filter is shooting from the hip. For example natural roll off of the drivers (+enclosure) is something that affects the acoustic crossover slopes. Adding some predefined electrical slopes to those and the result is not what expected. This might be exactly what is needed, if the speaker is properly measured and then analyzed this is the way to go. In addition to choosing crossover slope Q, a DSP could provide delay and parametric EQ which would allow further refinements.

Shooting from the hip is not prohibited but it is already 2020, simulation software are free, measurement hardware costs less than a single top shelf driver :)

I'm using fully horn loaded drivers in a three way (4 if you include the subs) system. The crossover between midrange and tweeter is still passive.
I've been using, as I said, the same 24dB - 400Hz slope for years and it sounds absolutely great. Drivers each operate in their most linear range and, while I suspect time delay could be beneficial, I prefer the imperfect sound of a full analogue signal rather than the scientifically perfect but digitalized sound of a DSP device. We all have different ears.
Using drivers that would need FR corrections or different slopes, one should indeed use a DSP device. It all depends what your speakers need in the end.
 
I don't want to discourage or be negative, just leaving a note here for future readers:
A ready made generic analog crossover might sound nicer than a cheap DSP solution. But it would be a rare occasion the actual slopes were optimal. So, the system sound won't match what could be achieved with even a cheap adjustable DSP. By system I mean the end result, the sound of the speaker including crossover in a room.

Drivers have their own unique properties, each brand and model and serial number, thus applying a generic filter is shooting from the hip. For example natural roll off of the drivers (+enclosure) is something that affects the acoustic crossover slopes. Adding some predefined electrical slopes to those and the acoustic crossover is not what is expected or required for a "nth order named crossover" one was buying. With DSP crossover filter Q can be adjusted and delay and parametric EQ would allow further refinements.

A ready made generic product might be exactly what is needed, if the speaker is properly measured and then analyzed and concluded that this is the proper electric filter slope required. It is also ok if there is no interest doing any measurements and the aim is to slap some speakers together a bit better than having no crossovers at all.

Shooting from the hip is not prohibited but it is already 2020, simulation software are free and measurement hardware costs less than a single top shelf driver. Only a little trouble for a DIY person to make so much better speaker and get more from the hobby than a simple ego boost :)

Something you dsp fans don't want to understand is that some people don't want a digital processing device in their speaker setup. It changes the sound on a very subtile way due to the PCM sampling and processing, and some have issues with that and want it all analog. Each setup has advantages and disadvantages, and your choice of importance is not necesairly what others think. So if someone want it different, stop pushing the dsp trough his throat.

It's great that dsp exist, and they are getting better each year, but it's not the magical solution for all problems for everybody. I also don't like dsp pure on sound but uses often a minidsp hd to find the right setup, wich i often make passive then because i think it sounds better.
 
Sorry pushing it, I totally understand that hearing, preferences and systems differ and I use analog as well as digital crossovers my self. My post was an opinion to a generic crossover, which main selling point is that it is a cheap product. Comparing cheap products DSP would win hands down, in my opinion.

If it is to replace another similar crossover, I guess it will do fine and even better if the frequencies werent adjustable before.
 
Last edited:
Okay so I have the K231 installed in my system.
Just received it and had a couple jours listening.
First I’d like to say it does everything what it’s supposed to; it is silent and clear and low distortion.
However I find it’s sonic signature to be very slightly cold and sterile and sharp with a slightly bright high end.
It is however brand new and I believe in burn-in, having experienced it first hand many times. So I suspect the sound will mellow down and open up a bit more.

As for setting things up, I found the right balance between low pass and high pass easily (just copying the settings of my previous crossover); I do have some trouble with the setting of the mid bass to subs crossover; I believe in my room the overlap I used to have between subs and mid bass was beneficial and now, with a real crossover between them, I find bass to be a little weak.
I always have the possibility to not use it and connect the subs like I used to do before.