Hello
I have recently put some excellent component speakers in my campervan.
They are excellent but the base is a bit lacking so I need a sub, buit as I am very stuck for space I was thinking could I make an isobaric sub?
I have recently put some excellent component speakers in my campervan.
They are excellent but the base is a bit lacking so I need a sub, buit as I am very stuck for space I was thinking could I make an isobaric sub?
You'll get much better help if you can provide specifics about your space limitation (give dimensions), budget limitation, desired bandwidth and SPL capability.
Regards,
Eric
Regards,
Eric
Thanks Eric, I didnt think of that.
Realistically I would be looking to use 6" drivers as I would have to incorporate the sub in to the furniture, band with and SPL capacity sorry I dont know what these are?
I was thinking of buying a set of used speakers for the drive units to keep costs down
Realistically I would be looking to use 6" drivers as I would have to incorporate the sub in to the furniture, band with and SPL capacity sorry I dont know what these are?
I was thinking of buying a set of used speakers for the drive units to keep costs down
TBH you'd probably be better off looking at one of the numerous "self-powered" subwoofers available:
Underseat Subwoofer - Car Audio Centre
most of these sound surprisingly good over the bottom octave or two.
Bandwidth is the frequency range you aim it to play 20-60Hz for example
SPL capacity is how loud it needs to go-100dB should suffice (about as loud as most head unit powerd systems will go on factory speakers)
If you are planning on builing your own enclosure you really need to get familiar with a decent bass box design programme-bbpro is a good one.
ISOBARIC used to be common place in car audio, but isn't really needed any more as modern drivers have stronger motors, heavier cones and less distortion-making the benefits of isobaric redundant.
What motor home is it? Have worked on quite a few and could give you some tips. Also what equipment do you have so far?-model numbers please, "Pioneer stereo" leaves me a lot of guess work!
Underseat Subwoofer - Car Audio Centre
most of these sound surprisingly good over the bottom octave or two.
Bandwidth is the frequency range you aim it to play 20-60Hz for example
SPL capacity is how loud it needs to go-100dB should suffice (about as loud as most head unit powerd systems will go on factory speakers)
If you are planning on builing your own enclosure you really need to get familiar with a decent bass box design programme-bbpro is a good one.
ISOBARIC used to be common place in car audio, but isn't really needed any more as modern drivers have stronger motors, heavier cones and less distortion-making the benefits of isobaric redundant.
What motor home is it? Have worked on quite a few and could give you some tips. Also what equipment do you have so far?-model numbers please, "Pioneer stereo" leaves me a lot of guess work!
Thanks for the link I didnt know about those, but a bit out of my price range at the moment, on a very small budget thats why I was thinking of having a go at building some
Its a Mazda Bongo so no room under the front seats
Head unit is Panasonic CQ-c1303NW
Panasonic CQ-C1303NW - Radio / CD / MP3 player - Full-DIN - in-dash - 50 Watts x 4 at Backoffice
Speakers are Blupunct ODC132
Soundmaster Scotland - Blaupunkt odc132 top of the range
Its a Mazda Bongo so no room under the front seats
Head unit is Panasonic CQ-c1303NW
Panasonic CQ-C1303NW - Radio / CD / MP3 player - Full-DIN - in-dash - 50 Watts x 4 at Backoffice
Speakers are Blupunct ODC132
Soundmaster Scotland - Blaupunkt odc132 top of the range
Forgot to say.
Whilst they do sound good I have to turn them up quite a bit would an amp help?
I just have one pair in the front doors at the moment
Whilst they do sound good I have to turn them up quite a bit would an amp help?
I just have one pair in the front doors at the moment
Amping the speakers will help the output, it would also allow you to filter the lowest bass frequencies from the drivers-resulting in better SQ in the ranges they are designed to deliver.
The underseat units can be mounted pretty much anywhere, not just under a front seat.
If you plan to go ahead:
4ch amp with the spec you need: In Phase IPX1004 4 channel 1200 watts amplifier - IPX1004 from In Phase
or a cheaper alternative with fixed HPF and LPF points (not ideal, 80Hz too low for your mids and too high for a sub IMO): Kenwood KAC-6405 4 Channel bridgable power amplifier 4/3/2 channel configuration - KAC-6405 from Kenwood
For a subwoofer you'll need to look at 2x 8ohm drivers or a single 4ohm driver to run off ch 3+4 bridged. As said before a single sub will do just as well as isobaric these days, plenty of little 8" on the market, some decent 6.5" too-though you'll probably find these will cost as much if not more than the equivalent 10/12" as economies of scale cannot be ignored.
The underseat units can be mounted pretty much anywhere, not just under a front seat.
If you plan to go ahead:
4ch amp with the spec you need: In Phase IPX1004 4 channel 1200 watts amplifier - IPX1004 from In Phase
or a cheaper alternative with fixed HPF and LPF points (not ideal, 80Hz too low for your mids and too high for a sub IMO): Kenwood KAC-6405 4 Channel bridgable power amplifier 4/3/2 channel configuration - KAC-6405 from Kenwood
For a subwoofer you'll need to look at 2x 8ohm drivers or a single 4ohm driver to run off ch 3+4 bridged. As said before a single sub will do just as well as isobaric these days, plenty of little 8" on the market, some decent 6.5" too-though you'll probably find these will cost as much if not more than the equivalent 10/12" as economies of scale cannot be ignored.
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