So while I must admit I'm relatively new to car audio I've played around enough to get the general idea, but a couple of questions I'm not sure just on general design. From what I've read as long as none of the measurements on my box are 1/2 the wavelength I should be fine with pretty much any stable shape.
I've got the electric stuff all worked out, and I am looking to build a .75 cu ft sealed enclosure. I'm just looking for help with the general design not specifics.
I have a pic attached and was wondering if the designs are all okay. I know Trap. A (in my pic) is cool for the side shape (With the sub in either side) but is Trap. B okay? And is it better to have the sub in the vertical side or in the angled side?
The other question is do the sides of the box have to be perpendicular to the base? or can they flair out? All the designs I've seen are like Front A (pic), but are Fronts B & C okay as well, or should they be avoided?
(As a note, I'm throwing this in a Jeep so it's open to the back where I'm putting it, but I would also like to throw it into the trunk of a car and not have to rebuild.)
I've got the electric stuff all worked out, and I am looking to build a .75 cu ft sealed enclosure. I'm just looking for help with the general design not specifics.
I have a pic attached and was wondering if the designs are all okay. I know Trap. A (in my pic) is cool for the side shape (With the sub in either side) but is Trap. B okay? And is it better to have the sub in the vertical side or in the angled side?
The other question is do the sides of the box have to be perpendicular to the base? or can they flair out? All the designs I've seen are like Front A (pic), but are Fronts B & C okay as well, or should they be avoided?
(As a note, I'm throwing this in a Jeep so it's open to the back where I'm putting it, but I would also like to throw it into the trunk of a car and not have to rebuild.)
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> none of the measurements on my box are 1/2 the wavelength I should be fine with pretty much any stable shape.
Shape does not matter.
Because all enclosure walls vibrate, you would like a maximum of volume with a minimum of surface area. That leads to a sphere, which is also self-bracing, but awkward to build and to fit in a space.
Cube is next best, as long as all dimensions are "small" compared to the shortest wavelength.
Note that unless your crossover is >12db/oct, there will be some upper resonances, mostly off the front, but some will come off the back of the cone, bounce, and come out. In car subwoofers you generally point the cone away from listeners. A slant may help. Good fuzz inside should make this bounce moot.
Most practical rooms (or Jeeps) favor a non-cubical shape. More material but better available space for golf-clubs etc.
You make corners perpendicular because that's much easier. You make them slanty when you "have to" for space or looks or to get mids pointed at the listeners.
You make panels 12 16 or 19 inches because that comes out of a 4x8 sheet without leftovers. However one sub-foot box won't come anywhere near a full sheet.
In fact I'd get '12" shelving' boards. They are really 11+ inches. Figure out 0.75 cu.ft. with 11" stuff. About 11x11x14, I'm not gonna do the math. Will that fit the Jeep? If so, bam bam bam, jig a hole, you have a subwoofer.
Alternatively, two 25" lengths of shelving and 6+ feet of 2x6x1 board makes 0.75 cu.ft. using only 7" of floor width. Note that accepting 0.66 cuft saves several dollars because you use a 4-foot shelf and might find 6' 2x6 board.
Shape does not matter.
Because all enclosure walls vibrate, you would like a maximum of volume with a minimum of surface area. That leads to a sphere, which is also self-bracing, but awkward to build and to fit in a space.
Cube is next best, as long as all dimensions are "small" compared to the shortest wavelength.
Note that unless your crossover is >12db/oct, there will be some upper resonances, mostly off the front, but some will come off the back of the cone, bounce, and come out. In car subwoofers you generally point the cone away from listeners. A slant may help. Good fuzz inside should make this bounce moot.
Most practical rooms (or Jeeps) favor a non-cubical shape. More material but better available space for golf-clubs etc.
You make corners perpendicular because that's much easier. You make them slanty when you "have to" for space or looks or to get mids pointed at the listeners.
You make panels 12 16 or 19 inches because that comes out of a 4x8 sheet without leftovers. However one sub-foot box won't come anywhere near a full sheet.
In fact I'd get '12" shelving' boards. They are really 11+ inches. Figure out 0.75 cu.ft. with 11" stuff. About 11x11x14, I'm not gonna do the math. Will that fit the Jeep? If so, bam bam bam, jig a hole, you have a subwoofer.
Alternatively, two 25" lengths of shelving and 6+ feet of 2x6x1 board makes 0.75 cu.ft. using only 7" of floor width. Note that accepting 0.66 cuft saves several dollars because you use a 4-foot shelf and might find 6' 2x6 board.
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