Stupid Student NEEDS help.. (Thats Me...)

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SkinnyBoy

SkinnyBoy

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Joined 2002
home.iprimus.com.au/jlstanley/Speakers/Index.html
#1
I want to hopefully make a pair of speakers for one of my main woodwork projects next year... BUT!!! I don't know how to match the woofer to the tweeter or what crossover to use... I think I would rather use a seperate amplifier for each speaker so that I can use active crossovers, (does this make the matching process easier??) Also, I have very little money.. 😛 I would like to use either 6inch or 8inch woofers... here are my choices (unless you can find some better ones for cheaper (including postage))

Anyway, here is the list.... I want to use a vented box for better bass response...

This list has already been posted somewhere else.. 🙂 sorry.. 🙁
 

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#2
SkinnyBoy said:
While we are on the subject of speakers... what would you guys choose from this list? going be performance and cost...
Click to expand...
What would I choose?

1. To chose a Jaycar wWofer, I'd like to know more about their stuff.
They have no free information on www.
You can only buy a catalogue! Very suspect.
I see they have a store in Adelaide:
ADELAIDE CITY
191 - 195 Wright Street, Adelaide, SA, 5000

2. It depends if I would build a Sub or a Normal speaker.
I would first look at Impedance 4/8 ohms, then dB SPL.
only one 6.5" have 88 dB. The other lower.
There are two 8" having 90dB SPL. (SPL=Soundpressure level at 1 watt, 8 ohms, (2.83 Vrms output))

The lower dB, the more watts you have to drive them with.
A difference of 3 dB, is twice the watt.
A 87dB needs 20 Watts to give same Volume as A 90dB have at 10Watts.

Nelson prefers speakers with upto 98-100 dB.
I try find at least 94-96 dB speakers.
Can be driven even with small Tube Amps
of some 5-10 watts Class A.
A 10 Watts Class A amplifier needs not so large heatsinks.

/halo
 
#6
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


8inch 120watt, Response Brand..

I chose these cos they only need small vented enclosures (26 and 33 litres..)

The amplifier I will be using at first will give about 60watts continuous.... Hoping to make a higher power one once I make these speakers.. 🙂

The speaekrs I am currently using say they are 92.5dB 1w/1m.... so, 90 isn't that much less.... and these speakers still pack a punch... albiet a rather muffled one cos they are crap..
 
#7
SkinnyBoy said:
I want to hopefully make a pair of speakers for one of my main woodwork projects next year... BUT!!! I don't know how to match the woofer to the tweeter or what crossover to use... I think I would rather use a seperate amplifier for each speaker so that I can use active crossovers, (does this make the matching process easier??) Also, I have very little money.. 😛 I would like to use either 6inch or 8inch woofers... here are my choices (unless you can find some better ones for cheaper (including postage))

Anyway, here is the list.... I want to use a vented box for better bass response...

This list has already been posted somewhere else.. 🙂 sorry.. 🙁
Click to expand...
I am a fan of separate amps for each driver.
And an active crossover. Many benefits!
Lower distortion.
The active crossovers are cheaper.
Uses only resistors and filmcaps + OPamps.
Much easier to match the crossovers.
Still you need some equipment to measure the performance
of the Speaker - test microphones and a soundcard for example.
-----------------------------------
I know of the Response speakers. I have a swedish catalogue selling them. They are very low priced.
But they can do, if one is very poor like me.
Still, for only a little more money there are some better alternatives.
---------------------------------
If I had to make the choice - I would put more money on loudspeaker
than Amplifiers. An amplifier performs resonably well even if being cheap.
But for loudspeakers - money can make very big difference.

With bad speakers, not even A Mark Levinson Amp can give HIFI!
------------------------------
Hope those with more practical experiences comes along
and fill in here.

/halo
 
#9
I am not sure, but ....

here is a 6.5 bas/mid
it costs about $20 USD, here in sweden
at this site:
HiFiKit Electronic AB

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Response TW 6502 ($20 USD)

Membrstorl (tum): 6.5
Membrantyp: Polypropylen
Impedans (ohm): 4 eller 8
Frekv omf (Hz): 45-8000
Effekt (W): 60
Känslighet (dB/SPL): 90
Resonansfrek (Hz): 50
Vas: 30.4
Qts: 0.38

What you think? Is it the same?

/halo
 
#10
Nah, not the same.......

"Yours"

Cone Material: Polypropylene
Impedence (ohms): 4 or 8
Frequency Range (Hz): 45-8000
Power Handling(W): 60
Känslighet (dB/SPL): 90
Resonant Frequency(Hz): 50
Vas: 30.4
Qts: 0.38


"Mine"

Cone Material: Polypropylene
Impedence (ohms): 8
Frequency Range (Hz): 39-3000
Power Handling(W): 80
Sensitivity: 87dB 1W/1M
Resonant Frequency(Hz): 39
Vas: 20.9
Qts: 0.433


BUT, there might be another WOOFER that is teh same... 🙂 the one you listed is more midrange... 😀
 
#11
Say I know I'm in the US but all those drivers sell for like $10-$18 USD .They are not very good in fact the specs on those vary as well from driver to driver.I've purchased some just like that for the aforementioned amount and unless you have a tester 2 of the same drivers can vary a bunch.Most of those are made in china for like $5 USD.You would be disappointed with them trust me.Those Response look like the same just a bit better on the price.Seriously you can buy better 6 1/2" for like $10-$20USD from numerous suppliers.Check the web see if you can find a decent mail-order outfit near you.
 
#12
I have to agree with bickeler

I agree with bickeler
you could do better.
But if you already have bought them - you can always use them for something.
For a backup system,
or if you build a system for your Sister or some other relative. 😀 😉

I quote myself:
halojoy:
They are very low priced.
But they can do, if one is very poor like me.
Still, for only a little more money there are some better alternatives.
---------------------------------
If I had to make the choice - I would put more money on loudspeaker
than Amplifiers. An amplifier performs resonably well even if being cheap.
But for loudspeakers - money can make very big difference.

With bad speakers, not even A Mark Levinson Amp can give HIFI!
Click to expand...

/halojoy - will never be the happy owner of a Mark Levinson Amp
 
#14
Audax - Avery GOOD alternative!

AudioFreak said:
SkinnyBoy,
It might be worth having a look at the Audax drivers available at http://www.me-au.com/tech.htm they will ship around Australia.
Click to expand...
I agree with AudioFreak.
Audax is very good for the price.
They have some very NICE bass/mid woofers,
even used in REAL HIGH END loudspeakers.
If I remeber correctly "Von Schweikert" has used Audax for the MID.
in those famous speakers.
http://www.vonschweikert.com/

Here is a reveiw of a VR-4, in Stereo Times
The Von Schweikert Audio VR-4 Generation III Loudspeaker
The Gen II’s 5.5" carbon fiber mid-driver has been replaced with a custom developed 6" "Aerogel" driver from Audax. "Aerogel" is a very rigid material and is composed of carbon impregnated cellulose acetate pulp with Kevlar threads as a binder. This matrix is then treated with a clear polymer coating to help reduce standing wave formation. The driver is mounted on a cast frame basket with a butyl rubber surround and uses a high power, low distortion motor.
Click to expand...

---------------

Another fact speaking for Audax is:
halojoy's latest purchase of woofers was 2 Audax 130mm (5") BAS/MID
Model is AUDAX HM130Z0 - fs 68 Hz - 92dB

AUDAX HM130Z0 - data
---------------------------

halojoy - a man of good taste
 
#18
I'd go with the Audax, unless they don't model well in whatever box you plan to use.

Audax has a worldwide reputation for very good quality drivers at reasonable prices. They have been used in may top quality systems including Von Schweikert, as Mr Holojoy pointed out. The Audax HM130C0 was used a the VS system that sold for something like $10,000USD.

Whereas Jarcar is virtually unknown outside Australia. They maybe very fine drivers, but I haven't heard them and no manufactures I know use them.

To top it off, the HP210Z0 is cheaper than the Jaycar CW2136.

Nice one,
David.
 
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