Very nice little amp and I also got the matching tuner. But my problems are the front push buttons.
Loudness is hard to convince to stay in. High Filter is completely stuck and Subsonic can be pushed, but would never stay in. Similar issues on the source selection some buttons stay pushed, other's don't and the cancelling each other out only partly works.
I tried the obvious, first contact cleaner which did not help and then switch cleaner with some lubrication. No change. All rattling, pushing, pulling did not make a difference.
How are these switches called? I guess I will need replacement.
Loudness is hard to convince to stay in. High Filter is completely stuck and Subsonic can be pushed, but would never stay in. Similar issues on the source selection some buttons stay pushed, other's don't and the cancelling each other out only partly works.
I tried the obvious, first contact cleaner which did not help and then switch cleaner with some lubrication. No change. All rattling, pushing, pulling did not make a difference.
How are these switches called? I guess I will need replacement.
Attachments
There are little pins on the top of the switches in grooves, they move side to side when the switch is worked.
Put some switch cleaning oil AFTER cleaning with a thin mild solvent like iso alcohol, let it drain immediately. It can damage some plastics if left too long. And do only one, to check what happens.
Then put oil with a syringe in the groove, work the switches, leave for a day.
Could be age related corrosion.
The switches are common in TV mains power switch, measure the size, and action, number of poles and so on.
Then if needed, search for them.
Most likely sticky from non use, the lube becomes like gum, and insulating.
You can rip them apart and fix them, IF you have watch making experience, and have something to snag flying parts.
For a cheap easily available part, do not bother.
Put some switch cleaning oil AFTER cleaning with a thin mild solvent like iso alcohol, let it drain immediately. It can damage some plastics if left too long. And do only one, to check what happens.
Then put oil with a syringe in the groove, work the switches, leave for a day.
Could be age related corrosion.
The switches are common in TV mains power switch, measure the size, and action, number of poles and so on.
Then if needed, search for them.
Most likely sticky from non use, the lube becomes like gum, and insulating.
You can rip them apart and fix them, IF you have watch making experience, and have something to snag flying parts.
For a cheap easily available part, do not bother.
Yes, a lot of consumer gear, car radios etc. had a bank or two of those alternate-action and interlocking selector switches. They preceded digital logic versions by many years but the problem is the life of the plastic laminate and mouldings which deform as much as wear, over such a long time.
Replace? I don't think so as these particular switches were obsolete long ago. Even if you do have a donor amplifier, the problem will be there too - or probably will be after you use it some. When that happens you really need to be an expert or well acquainted with small mechanisms to make lasting repairs. Unfortunately, squirting things with lubricant doesn't fix anything - just allows it to move more easily.
My father would tinker with the steel frame and heating and reshape the plastic but that's a time-consuming craft that requires preparation and your full attention. Then, the user likely trashes your hard work by just pushing as hard as they can when it doesn't work as easily as they expect it to.
Back to square one.
If you are determined to make them work, watch closely as the mechanism is operated and find what the latching mechanism is - see how it works or almost does. This will be similar for each switch or pair of switches for a stereo device. Watch how it probably fails to latch a push-on action but lets go all to easily on the alternate action, possibly fouling the movement of other, interlocked switches. Now you need to correct that latching failure, best way you can without breaking the aged plastics.
Replace? I don't think so as these particular switches were obsolete long ago. Even if you do have a donor amplifier, the problem will be there too - or probably will be after you use it some. When that happens you really need to be an expert or well acquainted with small mechanisms to make lasting repairs. Unfortunately, squirting things with lubricant doesn't fix anything - just allows it to move more easily.
My father would tinker with the steel frame and heating and reshape the plastic but that's a time-consuming craft that requires preparation and your full attention. Then, the user likely trashes your hard work by just pushing as hard as they can when it doesn't work as easily as they expect it to.
Back to square one.
If you are determined to make them work, watch closely as the mechanism is operated and find what the latching mechanism is - see how it works or almost does. This will be similar for each switch or pair of switches for a stereo device. Watch how it probably fails to latch a push-on action but lets go all to easily on the alternate action, possibly fouling the movement of other, interlocked switches. Now you need to correct that latching failure, best way you can without breaking the aged plastics.
I use my amps with computer only, so there is no real need for the selector.
If that is the case, trace and solder the connections on the switches as a last resort. Then it remains as an aesthetic piece, without any function.
FM tuners with SD / USB / Bluetooth / input selector are available, so that can be a possible solution, the mains powered units with RCA output are 4 quid and up here.
Then that new unit does the selection...
If that is the case, trace and solder the connections on the switches as a last resort. Then it remains as an aesthetic piece, without any function.
FM tuners with SD / USB / Bluetooth / input selector are available, so that can be a possible solution, the mains powered units with RCA output are 4 quid and up here.
Then that new unit does the selection...
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Agreed. A wireless Bluetooth/USB car radio module adds a lot of functionality including SD recording/playback and even a remote control, for the price. Where to mount it and what to do with the present controls though?
I was hoping this can still be sourced and they are just simple push-in operation switches. Will try what Naresh suggested. If that doesn't work I will unsolder them and take them apart. I got a box with old switches, but nothing that matches that size.
ALPS still make the non-interlocked switches , the ones that don’t clip into a rail (and when one is pushed in the othe pops out)
They only sell the short legged versions too , so if the switches have long legs you’re stuffed
They only sell the short legged versions too , so if the switches have long legs you’re stuffed
ALPS still make the non-interlocked switches , the ones that don’t clip into a rail (and when one is pushed in the other pops out)
They only sell the short legged versions too , so if the switches have long legs you’re stuffed
They only sell the short legged versions too , so if the switches have long legs you’re stuffed
Leave the thing alone, just hard wire the switches, and use an external unit, that feeds a chosen input.
Let the switches and buttons be as they are.
OR you can remove that section, and put a module, those need a 5 volt supply.
Will look ugly though, and will take your time too. And spoil the classic lines of the set.
For less than 10 quid for a new module, it is too much trouble to modify that old set. And if you disturb something else, more work.
Let the switches and buttons be as they are.
OR you can remove that section, and put a module, those need a 5 volt supply.
Will look ugly though, and will take your time too. And spoil the classic lines of the set.
For less than 10 quid for a new module, it is too much trouble to modify that old set. And if you disturb something else, more work.
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A new 4440 based amp costs 7 GBP and up here...so your old amp value has to be seen in that light.
I would make it work in a fashion, and use it just as an amp, with a single input.
There are other parts like the pots, which also will have seen wear.
I use old Philips sets, and use the software to change volume, the amp pot is hardly ever touched.
And the mains switch is always on, the whole power strip is switched from mains wall switch.
Your choice.
I would make it work in a fashion, and use it just as an amp, with a single input.
There are other parts like the pots, which also will have seen wear.
I use old Philips sets, and use the software to change volume, the amp pot is hardly ever touched.
And the mains switch is always on, the whole power strip is switched from mains wall switch.
Your choice.