I just bought a pre-made XO board and I can't work out what the values represent and why they were chosen.
I bought it for the cheap inductors, posted cost was less than half the cost of a new 6.8 cored coil
It's an old Jaycar CX-2630 and it is "Supposed" to be for 100Hz.
I've lost my text books temporarily and I need the formula for reactance.
The values are a 6.8mH coil and a 180uF cap to the woofer and the same value cap in series to the other speakers.
A stereo crossover but mounted on one board and similar to some I've found in old passive subs from RadioShack that used dual VC drivers
Also is there an easy or good way to cut one of these boards in half if I decide to use it as-is.
Appreciate any advice and help and thanx given in advance
I bought it for the cheap inductors, posted cost was less than half the cost of a new 6.8 cored coil
It's an old Jaycar CX-2630 and it is "Supposed" to be for 100Hz.
I've lost my text books temporarily and I need the formula for reactance.
The values are a 6.8mH coil and a 180uF cap to the woofer and the same value cap in series to the other speakers.
A stereo crossover but mounted on one board and similar to some I've found in old passive subs from RadioShack that used dual VC drivers
Also is there an easy or good way to cut one of these boards in half if I decide to use it as-is.
Appreciate any advice and help and thanx given in advance
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1 / ( 2 x Pi x sqrt ( L x C ) )
or 144Hz.
Maybe try a hacksaw to cut the board in half.
A skilled person could score the board, and break it in half.
or 144Hz.
Maybe try a hacksaw to cut the board in half.
A skilled person could score the board, and break it in half.
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Right and thank-you.
I have gotten so used to using calculators and crossover desigh programs that I have forgotten some of the basics, to the point where I can't even find my copy of the cookbook or my Weems books at the moment.
I have gotten so used to using calculators and crossover desigh programs that I have forgotten some of the basics, to the point where I can't even find my copy of the cookbook or my Weems books at the moment.
I find boards are sometimes layered like compressed MDF so the edges can be rough if you don't cut deeper.
Yes, score about 1/3 of the way down, and it should break ok.
Be sure to score the board on the top (component) side.
A box cutter may work well enough if you're careful.
Be sure to score the board on the top (component) side.
A box cutter may work well enough if you're careful.
I'm assuming it wo't be too difficult to remove the capacitors and work out some better values for the high pass/low pass
I guess I'll have to work around that problem some how, but a Cheybyscheff hump at 144 won't work for me so I have to change values.
Somewhere around 300/400 Hz guestimate should work
Somewhere around 300/400 Hz guestimate should work