Ok I'm pretty new to the Audio DIY bit. I have been doing a bit of research on my own and wanted make sure I found all that I could before posting.
I'm Building a Stealth Sub using West Elms end Table
http://ww1.westelm.com/cat/pip.cfm?template=8grid&pkey=cfrntbl&gids=f071&cid=frntbl&area=shp
It has almost 2 cubic feet of space to use. I plan on mounting the woofer on the bottom then using 1 1/2 inch Dayton Speaker Spikes to elevate sub. The table has 3/4 inch fiber board, I know it isn't ideal for making subs.
I bought a Dayton 8 inch Reference Series Driver
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-366
I'm not sure if the woofer I bought was designed for a sub or is adequate.
Now I could also fit a ten inch in there but I might not have the room for venting properly.
No here is where I'm really stuck i can't seem to find a Non plate amp to place inside. I do not want to mount anything on the side of the table. I would prefer to have phase,crossover and input/output controls. The amp also will not need to power any other speakers.
My goal is to create a good crisp sub for a medium sized room. The sub will be used for theater and music. I do not need to have my house shake to peices. But would like it to perform better than a Bose system.
Questions
1. Should I keep the woofer I have or upgrade to another 8 or 10 inch. I think I will have to use 8 inch b/c if the amp is located inside the venting will help keep amp cool.
2. Where can I find a good amp? I have looked at a few modules but do not have the skill set to build an amp properly.
3. How much PolyFill should be used?
As I mentioned before I tried to do as much research as I could before posting any help here would be highly appreciated. Thanks
Alan
I'm Building a Stealth Sub using West Elms end Table
http://ww1.westelm.com/cat/pip.cfm?template=8grid&pkey=cfrntbl&gids=f071&cid=frntbl&area=shp
It has almost 2 cubic feet of space to use. I plan on mounting the woofer on the bottom then using 1 1/2 inch Dayton Speaker Spikes to elevate sub. The table has 3/4 inch fiber board, I know it isn't ideal for making subs.
I bought a Dayton 8 inch Reference Series Driver
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-366
I'm not sure if the woofer I bought was designed for a sub or is adequate.
Now I could also fit a ten inch in there but I might not have the room for venting properly.
No here is where I'm really stuck i can't seem to find a Non plate amp to place inside. I do not want to mount anything on the side of the table. I would prefer to have phase,crossover and input/output controls. The amp also will not need to power any other speakers.
My goal is to create a good crisp sub for a medium sized room. The sub will be used for theater and music. I do not need to have my house shake to peices. But would like it to perform better than a Bose system.
Questions
1. Should I keep the woofer I have or upgrade to another 8 or 10 inch. I think I will have to use 8 inch b/c if the amp is located inside the venting will help keep amp cool.
2. Where can I find a good amp? I have looked at a few modules but do not have the skill set to build an amp properly.
3. How much PolyFill should be used?
As I mentioned before I tried to do as much research as I could before posting any help here would be highly appreciated. Thanks
Alan
Been to see Rod's site?
Hi mate,have you been here yet?
http://sound.westhost.com/index.html
A mind of info is over there,whilst you await a reply.
mikee55
Hi mate,have you been here yet?
http://sound.westhost.com/index.html
A mind of info is over there,whilst you await a reply.
mikee55
1. That woofer is OK for what you want. Venting will not allow any cooling to an internally mounted amp because there is no net airflow - the air in the vent simply moves back and forth a bit.
2. The ESP site above is a good place to start, I appreciate you didn't want to build something but short of buying a plate amp and taking it apart I'm not sure you have much choice.
3. Don't use any fill for vented boxes as the air must be free to move in and around the vent. There is also little midrange information to reflect inside anyway. If you insist, just line the walls.
2. The ESP site above is a good place to start, I appreciate you didn't want to build something but short of buying a plate amp and taking it apart I'm not sure you have much choice.
3. Don't use any fill for vented boxes as the air must be free to move in and around the vent. There is also little midrange information to reflect inside anyway. If you insist, just line the walls.
I like the idea. Have you considered using a plate amp, but carving the wood out a bit so it's inset? Then you could glue a veneer on top of the plate amp, and stain to match. That should give you the best of both worlds.
If the plate amp has connectors you don't plan on using, you could just remove them and cover them up. The only thing then would be power and RCA running into the end table.
If you really wanted to get fancy and know your way around a sodering iron, you could connect them inside the table, so the cables run into the bottom of the endtable.
If the plate amp has connectors you don't plan on using, you could just remove them and cover them up. The only thing then would be power and RCA running into the end table.
If you really wanted to get fancy and know your way around a sodering iron, you could connect them inside the table, so the cables run into the bottom of the endtable.
Thanks for the help guys. I think I'm going to use this 120 watter from Parts Express.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-792
I'm going to dissect it and place it within the enclosure. I liked Chance's idea of how to mount the amp but feel it would be much easier for me to pull the amp apart and mount inside though the ease of this remains to be seen.
Now I'm being a little lazy asking this next question b/c I know the answer is out there but I'll ask anyway when mounting items like woofers and components is glue used with woodscrews to ensure the screws don't rattle loose and also is there a need to use some sort of material like felt between speaker and box? I built a chooper last year and never used locktite on the screws, well just about every screw has fallen off the bike, now I have a beautiful sexy bike that I'm scare to death to ride. I would hate to have a beautiful sub that rattles.
I also tried using WinIsd Pro so that it could help me decide proper venting for this and had some difficulty selecting vented box after entering the Dayton woofers specs. Is this b/c they are recommending that I use a sealed enclosure?
Once again thanks for your help. You have saved me an enormous amount of time. I will take pics tomorrow and post them.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-792
I'm going to dissect it and place it within the enclosure. I liked Chance's idea of how to mount the amp but feel it would be much easier for me to pull the amp apart and mount inside though the ease of this remains to be seen.
Now I'm being a little lazy asking this next question b/c I know the answer is out there but I'll ask anyway when mounting items like woofers and components is glue used with woodscrews to ensure the screws don't rattle loose and also is there a need to use some sort of material like felt between speaker and box? I built a chooper last year and never used locktite on the screws, well just about every screw has fallen off the bike, now I have a beautiful sexy bike that I'm scare to death to ride. I would hate to have a beautiful sub that rattles.
I also tried using WinIsd Pro so that it could help me decide proper venting for this and had some difficulty selecting vented box after entering the Dayton woofers specs. Is this b/c they are recommending that I use a sealed enclosure?
Once again thanks for your help. You have saved me an enormous amount of time. I will take pics tomorrow and post them.
One other question would it be better for me to use a 10inch sub that wasn't vented as oppose to using an 8 vented? Not sure if I have enough room for venting if I went with the 10 incher but sure would be nice. I already have a few friends that want me to build them one so I can work with a few different setups so if anyone has any suggestions keeping in mind that the only working space to be used is the bottom and the inside of the table/enclosure please feel free to pass them my way. Thanks
8 vented or 10 sealed, it all comes down to what drive unit you choose. It shouldn't be mega hard to tune a 2 cu ft box low enough.
You don't need to put any locking compound on screws as the enclosure shouldn't vibrate if built properly. Also, being wood it kind of grips the screws anyway.
You don't need to put any locking compound on screws as the enclosure shouldn't vibrate if built properly. Also, being wood it kind of grips the screws anyway.
Hi,
what I would do :
I'd make the bottom panel of the table removable.
I'd use a rectangular slot port beside the bass unit.
I'd mount the plate amplifier on the side of the slot port.
The port airflow will cool the amplifier.
Only real problem is getting the plate amplifier controls
to their final settings, adjustment will not be easy.
🙂 /sreten.
what I would do :
I'd make the bottom panel of the table removable.
I'd use a rectangular slot port beside the bass unit.
I'd mount the plate amplifier on the side of the slot port.
The port airflow will cool the amplifier.
Only real problem is getting the plate amplifier controls
to their final settings, adjustment will not be easy.
🙂 /sreten.
Wow mounting this on the inside is going to be tough. Trying to tweak it will be difficult. You may want to see if you can remote mount the gain at least.
Also one thing to consider, the amp has the following Dimensions: 8-1/4" W x 10-5/8" H x 4" D . You can pull the back cover plate off , but it still may not fit through an 7-3/8" hole. Sounds like the removable plate idea or a 10" driver may be required.
I really think you may end up overheating the amp iif you place it inside. Either way be sure to use these: T-Nuts to mount the driver/bottom plate so you can easily take it on and off.
On your winISD problem, it doesn't care if it's ported or sealed. THe program just runs different calculations. I had trouble entering the driver information until somone listed out the steps for me. You can find them in my thread here . About 5 posts down, and make sure your using the pro version.
Also one thing to consider, the amp has the following Dimensions: 8-1/4" W x 10-5/8" H x 4" D . You can pull the back cover plate off , but it still may not fit through an 7-3/8" hole. Sounds like the removable plate idea or a 10" driver may be required.
I really think you may end up overheating the amp iif you place it inside. Either way be sure to use these: T-Nuts to mount the driver/bottom plate so you can easily take it on and off.
On your winISD problem, it doesn't care if it's ported or sealed. THe program just runs different calculations. I had trouble entering the driver information until somone listed out the steps for me. You can find them in my thread here . About 5 posts down, and make sure your using the pro version.
Well I was just strolling along ebay and ran accross this plateamp there.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=67786&item=5839637700
Has anyone ever heard of it? Is it a good quality amp? Or should I stick with the one from Parts Express? I think this amp on ebay give me more flexability. I might hae enough room to mount the preamp plate on the bottom. I may have to trim the plate some but looks like it might work. I will have to vent through multiple small holes though. that my create venting noise. One thing is for sure I will not deviate from the fact this table will remain looking like a table.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=67786&item=5839637700
Has anyone ever heard of it? Is it a good quality amp? Or should I stick with the one from Parts Express? I think this amp on ebay give me more flexability. I might hae enough room to mount the preamp plate on the bottom. I may have to trim the plate some but looks like it might work. I will have to vent through multiple small holes though. that my create venting noise. One thing is for sure I will not deviate from the fact this table will remain looking like a table.
im surprised no one has reccomended a more beefy driver! i mean yeah sure, the refs are beefy, but wouldn't a tangband 8" or one of the 8" apex juniors rip the ref series a new one in terms of sub output and depth? plus IIRC the 8" apex junior doesnt require much space for a vented enclosure that goes deep enough for an awesome ht, and has enough fidelity and punnch for music. then theres the tangband which can get down into the 20s in an EBS alignment that is also pretty small. also before you get your heart set on a 120 watt amp, look at the excursion simulations in winISD
yeah the dayton ref only has a 7mm xmax, wheras the tangband has almost double that
yeah the dayton ref only has a 7mm xmax, wheras the tangband has almost double that
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