Well I have made my choice; I will be starting in on some curvy changs tomorrow and have a few questions. Most of the info I have seen on these people have added a tweeter to this cabinet. Is it necessary, if so what would be a good addition to this with a FE 206/207. Which brings me to my next question is a FE207 better suited to this cabinet than a FE206.
and how about a little poll would my money be better spent on a tweeter and crossover or on an enabled 207.
Cheers
Ryan
and how about a little poll would my money be better spent on a tweeter and crossover or on an enabled 207.
Cheers
Ryan
FE207 is the better choice. Some believe it needs a tweeter. Bob Brine's customers seem happy without one. I suggest you listen without and then decide.
I'll let others comment on the FE207eN. Its HF extension is not significantly different from stock.
dave
I'll let others comment on the FE207eN. Its HF extension is not significantly different from stock.
dave
I use a FT17 with mine, crossover costs were minimal, 2 resistors for attenuation and a cap. Cant remember what values I ended up with as cabinets curently in my garage due to lack of room in new house and wife!
My 207's are enabled, I would go that way first then look at adding a tweeter if you think you need one.
My 207's are enabled, I would go that way first then look at adding a tweeter if you think you need one.
If you scroll down you can see i added a supertweeter on the back of my fostex 165k BIBs...
http://www.zillaaudio.com/fostex-165k-bib.htm
It adds a bit of upper end polish making the speaker more enjoyable. I'd build it the same way if i were to do it again. All it takes is a few days of tinkering with the cap value until you hear the results you want. I like tweeters on the back when using fostex full range drivers because they are already very extended. Adding a tweeter facing forward you are probably looking at cap values of .47, .33 or .22uf... very small but imo worth it for that last drop of treble extension and detail.
I'd go for the 207e personally.
Godzilla
http://www.zillaaudio.com/fostex-165k-bib.htm
It adds a bit of upper end polish making the speaker more enjoyable. I'd build it the same way if i were to do it again. All it takes is a few days of tinkering with the cap value until you hear the results you want. I like tweeters on the back when using fostex full range drivers because they are already very extended. Adding a tweeter facing forward you are probably looking at cap values of .47, .33 or .22uf... very small but imo worth it for that last drop of treble extension and detail.
I'd go for the 207e personally.
Godzilla
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Thanks for the replies so far. Today was a good day I got all of the wood cut except for the backs. Got the compression chamber glued up, and glued up and cut to shape the port to port deflector. I plan to add some gussets to the compression chamber to tie the lower 'L' shape about mid way of the front panel.
This almost needs a thread on its own, but I have some questions regarding driver baffle plates. I'm not sure if that's what they are called but I'm referring to hardwood circles I see added to the front of many speakers. Is there any science to this or are there any links to share on designing these. I have some walnut that I was thinking of laminating together to make some of these but would like to know more about how they work and how to shape one properly for the FE207.
Cheers
Ryan
This almost needs a thread on its own, but I have some questions regarding driver baffle plates. I'm not sure if that's what they are called but I'm referring to hardwood circles I see added to the front of many speakers. Is there any science to this or are there any links to share on designing these. I have some walnut that I was thinking of laminating together to make some of these but would like to know more about how they work and how to shape one properly for the FE207.
Cheers
Ryan
They have been dubbed supraBaffles. Ideally they have aan increasing radius round over or champher.
They have 3 potential uses/benefits.
1/ when wider than the box (ie frugel-horn), the primary purpose is to push the baffle step frequency lower.
2/ if smaller than the baffle, reduces the distance to the cabinet edge as seen by the higher frequencies to reduce edge diffraction and shorten the delay.
3/ if circular, give a symmetrical wavelaunch.
dave
They have 3 potential uses/benefits.
1/ when wider than the box (ie frugel-horn), the primary purpose is to push the baffle step frequency lower.
2/ if smaller than the baffle, reduces the distance to the cabinet edge as seen by the higher frequencies to reduce edge diffraction and shorten the delay.
3/ if circular, give a symmetrical wavelaunch.
dave
I belive the physics of the Curvy Chang preclude the use of a suprabaffles, the speaker has to be mounted as shown, approx 11mm back from the centre of the curve, so it is loaded slightly. RonC has explained a lot of this on the Curvy Chang Thread started by GYCHANG.
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