wackyterbacky said:Have you had a chance to verify that the spdif signal is indeed supplied to those pads on the pc board? I was thinking of checking it out with a scope this weekend.
Wacky, did you have a chance to check for a signal? If not, I may be able to check it out on a scope here at work. I'm real curious.
The DM830 datasheet seems to be unavailable online. Has anyone had any luck?
I sent another email to see about the datasheet, but I doubt I'll get a response. Maybe one of the sales reps could send one? I dunno.
-Ken
digital signal found
OK, I got to poke around briefly with the scope and the DVM. U750 is the location of what weissi and kec said is a TOTX178 /179. There are three pads on the back edge - VSS, VDD (3.3V) and what appears to be a signal input. This input goes to a feedthrough near R117 and connects to another near the legend for U902. This trace connects to R106, which is missing.
The other side of R106 connects to the Bridgeco chip - 6 pins from the corner ( sorry I don't have a pinout. ) I forgot to measure the values of some of the nearby chip resistors. See picture
Anyhow, during music play this pin does have a digital signal. I meant to try to measure the duty cycle or pulse width, but triggering was a problem. However, if I pause the song, the pattern becomes much more stable, still hard to trigger. I don't know spdif protocol, but I am guessing it is outputting a series of constant values. When I start the song, the jitter starts again.
It appears that if we get the right optical transmitter and bridge this missing resistor, we get spdif output.
Thanks to everyone for their ideas and turning me on to this device.
OK, I got to poke around briefly with the scope and the DVM. U750 is the location of what weissi and kec said is a TOTX178 /179. There are three pads on the back edge - VSS, VDD (3.3V) and what appears to be a signal input. This input goes to a feedthrough near R117 and connects to another near the legend for U902. This trace connects to R106, which is missing.
The other side of R106 connects to the Bridgeco chip - 6 pins from the corner ( sorry I don't have a pinout. ) I forgot to measure the values of some of the nearby chip resistors. See picture
Anyhow, during music play this pin does have a digital signal. I meant to try to measure the duty cycle or pulse width, but triggering was a problem. However, if I pause the song, the pattern becomes much more stable, still hard to trigger. I don't know spdif protocol, but I am guessing it is outputting a series of constant values. When I start the song, the jitter starts again.
It appears that if we get the right optical transmitter and bridge this missing resistor, we get spdif output.
Thanks to everyone for their ideas and turning me on to this device.
Attachments
Re: digital signal found
Nice work Wacky.
I think there also needs to be a 0.1uF cap at C750, across pins 1 & 2 at the toslink connector which is missing - according to the TOTX179 datasheet http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Toshiba/Web Data/TOTX179P.pdf
FYI, I got an email from BridgeCo (VP of sales) about the datasheet. He told me I'd have to sign a NDA (Non-Disclosure Agreement) and talk to him about what my needs are in order to get the datasheet. I replied that I only needed the datasheet (pin diagram) for troubleshooting and wasn't planning on purchasing anything. Needless to say I didn't hear back from him.
I also sent an email to their support email address. Got the same reply that I had to go through sales. Oh well, I tried.
wackyterbacky said:OK, I got to poke around briefly with the scope and the DVM. U750 is the location of what weissi and kec said is a TOTX178 /179. There are three pads on the back edge - VSS, VDD (3.3V) and what appears to be a signal input. This input goes to a feedthrough near R117 and connects to another near the legend for U902. This trace connects to R106, which is missing.
The other side of R106 connects to the Bridgeco chip - 6 pins from the corner ( sorry I don't have a pinout. ) I forgot to measure the values of some of the nearby chip resistors. See picture
Anyhow, during music play this pin does have a digital signal. I meant to try to measure the duty cycle or pulse width, but triggering was a problem. However, if I pause the song, the pattern becomes much more stable, still hard to trigger. I don't know spdif protocol, but I am guessing it is outputting a series of constant values. When I start the song, the jitter starts again.
It appears that if we get the right optical transmitter and bridge this missing resistor, we get spdif output.
Thanks to everyone for their ideas and turning me on to this device.
Nice work Wacky.
I think there also needs to be a 0.1uF cap at C750, across pins 1 & 2 at the toslink connector which is missing - according to the TOTX179 datasheet http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Toshiba/Web Data/TOTX179P.pdf
FYI, I got an email from BridgeCo (VP of sales) about the datasheet. He told me I'd have to sign a NDA (Non-Disclosure Agreement) and talk to him about what my needs are in order to get the datasheet. I replied that I only needed the datasheet (pin diagram) for troubleshooting and wasn't planning on purchasing anything. Needless to say I didn't hear back from him.
I also sent an email to their support email address. Got the same reply that I had to go through sales. Oh well, I tried.
Hi, i recieved this SMCWAA-G from ebay but my modem/router is not wireless, will the wireless pci card communicate with this SMCWAA-G in my stereo? need help...
Well, I just received a few parts from Digi-Key to add the optical out. And guess what, it is indeed working through my Panasonic XR10 receiver.
I added the TOTX179 (U750) as discussed, 100 ohm (R106 - thanks rossl) and 0.1uF (C750) and that's it. The size I ordered is the 0603 SMD series, which is a little bit bigger than the other parts on the board, but they will work. BTW, the TOTX179 fits perfectly on the board. Now the case will need a mod.
Parts list:
U750 - Digi-Key P/N TOTX179PFT-ND
R106 - 100 ohm - DK P/N RHM100HCT-ND
C750 - 0.1uF - DK P/N PCC1762CT-ND

I added the TOTX179 (U750) as discussed, 100 ohm (R106 - thanks rossl) and 0.1uF (C750) and that's it. The size I ordered is the 0603 SMD series, which is a little bit bigger than the other parts on the board, but they will work. BTW, the TOTX179 fits perfectly on the board. Now the case will need a mod.
Parts list:
U750 - Digi-Key P/N TOTX179PFT-ND
R106 - 100 ohm - DK P/N RHM100HCT-ND
C750 - 0.1uF - DK P/N PCC1762CT-ND
Wow...congratulations....what a great way to have a squeezebox alternative. E-Bay...here I come.
After about an hour-and-a-half of fabrication on the enclosure.... Done! (unless we can figure out something better 🙂)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
OK, I couldn't resist. I just bought one on ebay for a total of $54 shipped. I already have a TOTX179 waiting.😀
What method did you use to make the cutout?
What method did you use to make the cutout?
theAnonymous1 said:OK, I couldn't resist. I just bought one on ebay for a total of $54 shipped. I already have a TOTX179 waiting.😀
What method did you use to make the cutout?
11/32" drill, but you could go with a 3/8" drill, which is the width of the connector. I just wanted to start slightly smaller to ensure a nice fit.
Then I used a small triangle needle file to do the corners. Takes a little time, but comes out nice. Use tape (blue) where you be drilling/filing, and I wrapped the LCD with 2 paper towels and tape to prevent any damage.
theAnonymous1 said:Drill bit + triangle file....... exactly what I was thinking of doing.![]()
Oh, and I put a piece of wood (hehe, I said wood 🙂) behind where I drilled (on my drill press), so as not to bend the panel. Be careful as some drills like to grab sheet metal if it's not secured - just in case you didn't know this 😀
rossl said:if it would decode FLAC then I would buy one right now. <grin>
Yeah, it would be nice, but I'm perfectly happy with it being able to transcode from the server. Works perfect.
Congratulations
Hi Ken:
Very neat work.
I just finished my kludged conversion, but went a different direction. I did not get a chance to order the TOTX parts, so I scrounged a PC mount RCA jack from an old sound card and put a coax output. Works great, and even passes the bitperfect "udial.wav" test.
I tested this out with a jumper wire direct connection from the DM830 chip to a DAC and it locked in and played music.
I'll post the ugly pix tomorrow, but I jumpered the R106 with a few strands of copper wire twisted together and tinned, since I did not have any solid wire small enough.
I flipped the RCA connector upside down so it's two solder tabs face up. I drilled two 1/16 holes into the RCA connector body and used two tiny screws to attach it to the PC board, using the TOTX mounting holes. I had to bring wires from under the board.
My biggest F'up was drilling the hole correctly, so it took a bit of filing to get it right.
I also noticed that the Analog RCA connectors cause problems fitting the case back together. There is a yellow plastic screw mount boss on top that is not used, but it interferes with the LCD "tray" during reassembly. I just cut it flush with some snips.
By the way, I am playing flac and ape files on this thing. I use tversity media server (freeware) and installed the ffdshow codecs (freeware) per the instructions on one of the forums. Someone gave very detailed instructions on installation.
The latest Tversity gives you radiotime.com which has a bunch of free stations.
I also downloaded uSirius (freeware) and have Sirius high bandwidth channels, too. You have to subscribe to Sirius.
I am amazed at the utility of this little device.
Hi Ken:
Very neat work.
I just finished my kludged conversion, but went a different direction. I did not get a chance to order the TOTX parts, so I scrounged a PC mount RCA jack from an old sound card and put a coax output. Works great, and even passes the bitperfect "udial.wav" test.
I tested this out with a jumper wire direct connection from the DM830 chip to a DAC and it locked in and played music.
I'll post the ugly pix tomorrow, but I jumpered the R106 with a few strands of copper wire twisted together and tinned, since I did not have any solid wire small enough.
I flipped the RCA connector upside down so it's two solder tabs face up. I drilled two 1/16 holes into the RCA connector body and used two tiny screws to attach it to the PC board, using the TOTX mounting holes. I had to bring wires from under the board.
My biggest F'up was drilling the hole correctly, so it took a bit of filing to get it right.
I also noticed that the Analog RCA connectors cause problems fitting the case back together. There is a yellow plastic screw mount boss on top that is not used, but it interferes with the LCD "tray" during reassembly. I just cut it flush with some snips.
By the way, I am playing flac and ape files on this thing. I use tversity media server (freeware) and installed the ffdshow codecs (freeware) per the instructions on one of the forums. Someone gave very detailed instructions on installation.
The latest Tversity gives you radiotime.com which has a bunch of free stations.
I also downloaded uSirius (freeware) and have Sirius high bandwidth channels, too. You have to subscribe to Sirius.
I am amazed at the utility of this little device.
TVersity setup post #35 in this av123forum thread
http://av123forum.com/showpost.php?p=385004&postcount=35
http://av123forum.com/showpost.php?p=385004&postcount=35
TVersity + EZ Streamer = Flac!!
Check out post #35 in this thread:
http://www.av123forum.com/showthread.php?t=21887&page=3
TVersity can transcode (on the fly) flac to wav.
TVersity can be found here:
http://tversity.com/home
Can anyone post a few more pics of the modded pcb to see more clearly what was done (modding newbie here)
Check out post #35 in this thread:
http://www.av123forum.com/showthread.php?t=21887&page=3
TVersity can transcode (on the fly) flac to wav.
TVersity can be found here:
http://tversity.com/home
Can anyone post a few more pics of the modded pcb to see more clearly what was done (modding newbie here)

Re: TVersity + EZ Streamer = Flac!!
Add the noted parts (3) to the locations shown here:
kink rimson said:Can anyone post a few more pics of the modded pcb to see more clearly what was done (modding newbie here)![]()
Add the noted parts (3) to the locations shown here:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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