Spraying Zinsser BIN123 or similar product

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Nope, won't atomize properly due to it's low viscosity. Still an excellent product for this purpose.

Friend of mine is a commercial painter with several HVLP rigs. He cannot see the cost for an air gun, dispite the obvious need for one. The cost factor is what it is, being a fiscally sound businessmans choice. But as I've pointed out, being fiscally smart often times gets in the way of being the smartest businessman you can be. Doing this would eat into business profits, eg profits in his personal pocket which places the cost inconsequential due to the profitability.

Funny that in the last year since our chat he's been offered to buy two setups and felt sorry for letting these opportunities slip through his fingers. Then within a week after passing had to turn down work that he had in the bag if he hadn't and would have paid for the units entirely. Then to have this same situation repeat itself, gets him only that LOOK I can give 😀
 
We have a HVLP at the shop, no-one ever uses it. We have quite the selection of Devibliss cup guns.

The pressure air guns are fine, a large tank is really handy; just pieced together a 60 gal vertical tank compressor, loving-life with that. Almost no water build up, maybe because the high cut-off setting is only 110psi; might be because the air inlets are 6' off the ground - also the air hose is 4' off the ground. Point being, stand up/vertical compressors may be better for painting (less condensation).

I end up spraying outside a lot, using 60psi - 70psi. Neighbor gave me a floor stander fan which helps a lot with bug issues, although a bird landed on my project the other day, for spite I'm sure 😡

A pop up tent might be a good idea, if you have to go outside.
 
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I run a prototype and display shop. I like bullseye primer a lot, but I think for what you want to do, a better approach is to use a sanding sealer (the ones we use are nitro-cellulose based). One wet coat, let dry, the mdf (or any wood product) will become hairy and need a light sanding (we typically use 220, unless you're going for a piano like finish, in which case you're going to need to build up layers (probably of a good primer rather than more sealer) and finish with a 600 or 800 grit). Then apply second coat of the sealer. Then, the appropriate primer for the lacquer you're spraying. If you have edges of mdf, these may need an extra few coats of either the sanding sealer, or something like breakthrough. I'd aways start with the sanding sealer coats though, and if you have edges, you can brush paint unthinned coats on those to fill up the "grain" of the mdf.
 
Painting MDF is a challenge and I'm still looking. Right now I'm using Elmers glue the yellow stuff thats marked new ,sandable and paintable. I cut it 50 % with water and apply one or two coats depending how complicated the object is. It sands very nice and doesn't clog my osc sander. I'm on a search to fine a high hide water soluble tint that I can add to avoid dry spots.

I don't like shellac, sanding sealer or Zinsser on MDF. Clogs my sandpaper and $.

I need to make my self a big rotisserie that rotates big parts and is motor driven with a foot switch. . That would be so cool.

For spraying the glue I use a el cheapo Harbor Freight HVLP gun. The one that has a pressure regulator on the handle. I like it from the standpoint they sell throwaway plastic containers that hold the glue. No clean up. Their stuff is at the bottom but some is a hidden gem. Love their hydraulic table for sheet goods.

Posted a pic of my shop under loudspeakers. full range.

For fine finishing I don't like HVLP.
 
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