The price seems correct. Vintage Fan restoration site has a similar re-wound stator and the price is $225 plus tax and S&H .
I saw youtube video of Indian shop doing rewinding of fan motors. Teenagers were working there.
Restoring such fan to a jewelery standard takes lots of time and work. I'm not aiming that high. Originally, straight from the factory some 80-100 years ago those fans didn't look so shiny either. They were not painted with quality automotive lacquers nor the blades were mirror polished . Usually the brass blades were painted gold.
I stripped body of the fan and I'm going to leave it that way protecting the cast iron patina with a clear coat.
US public is much more demanding on the look of vintage pieces than European methinks.
I saw youtube video of Indian shop doing rewinding of fan motors. Teenagers were working there.
Restoring such fan to a jewelery standard takes lots of time and work. I'm not aiming that high. Originally, straight from the factory some 80-100 years ago those fans didn't look so shiny either. They were not painted with quality automotive lacquers nor the blades were mirror polished . Usually the brass blades were painted gold.
I stripped body of the fan and I'm going to leave it that way protecting the cast iron patina with a clear coat.
US public is much more demanding on the look of vintage pieces than European methinks.
I will try to find a donor of a stator before a proceed . In the meantime I've got a clunker Auralic Arues Mini and I'm trying to attach my 10 TB G- Drive HD library to it. It's scanning 130k files for the third time and not moving forward , Meh
Aries Mini is good but it overheats big time. There is a remedy. Also it better has its own internal SDD.
Yep , I read all about it . White case became yellow and thats how I got it so the venting holes are coming ASAP . I just wanted to make sure it will work. Set up was not as smooth as I'd hope but I got it to play internet radio. For last two days I was trying to mount that 10TB HD and almost gave up. First it didn't see the drive , then it was constantly scanning and re- scanning several times and when I was going to quit it just started to load the library and 15 minutes later I have 14 thousands albums under my palm and almost 140k songs ( music) from which 4Tb is DSD.
Lightning DS app is freezing from time to time on the IPad I bought and I'm not sure how stable the playback is going to be.
Lightning DS app is freezing from time to time on the IPad I bought and I'm not sure how stable the playback is going to be.
Jean-Paul: I can send bearings to you, the price is in the 0.50 Euro range for a pair. The big cost is shipping...
The sleeve bearings / bushes are sold in Metric and Imperial sizes, handy.
I once thought of sending Chinese chip amps to Juan Fahey in Argentina, for him to try, and the cost of sending 50 grams or less by air mail was about 1000 Rupees, and the contents were about 150 Rupees or so for 10 of the 2050 / 1875 equivalents...so I dropped the idea.
My winding shop man has assorted relatives working there, some teenagers as well. He does mostly household stuff, another shop I know does power tool repairs, including armature winding.
That music device: If possible, change whatever electrolytic capacitors are there inside, and in PSU.
The sleeve bearings / bushes are sold in Metric and Imperial sizes, handy.
I once thought of sending Chinese chip amps to Juan Fahey in Argentina, for him to try, and the cost of sending 50 grams or less by air mail was about 1000 Rupees, and the contents were about 150 Rupees or so for 10 of the 2050 / 1875 equivalents...so I dropped the idea.
My winding shop man has assorted relatives working there, some teenagers as well. He does mostly household stuff, another shop I know does power tool repairs, including armature winding.
That music device: If possible, change whatever electrolytic capacitors are there inside, and in PSU.
The External HD drive ? Yes it does. It's a very good drive actually. I plan to make a passive PSU (no regulator ) for Mini. Dave Davenport from K&K was extolling on virtues of passive PSU for Rakk DAC as compared to regulated versions also YBA gear I own uses that topology.
Change the Aries Mini before the DAC chip dies from the heat. Update firmware and app. Check the harddisks PSU and try another one. Have that harddisk scanned on a pc or Mac and repeat action. Maybe it is too large and data needs to be copied to a SSD in the Mini in chunks after it has been copied on a pc to a smaller disk in chunks.
A passive PSU for Aries Mini is EOL of Aries Mini. I had a few and modded these in series. They need a regulated PSU. Don’t bother killing it with strange experiments because Mr X or brand Y do so with totally different stuff Z.
Possibly my pictures float around here somewhere. The largest issue is the totally closed casing and then the crackling DAC. It is sensitive to PSU quality and the original wall wart is so so (cut off the cable for reusing and throw the wall wart away) but the original LPS is quite OK. I still have an extremely well built vibration free cast aluminium Premium DDR LPS by Mr JP from DIYaudio for Aries Mini. It outperformed the original LPS big time. Pure clean bio green power, fresh, healthy, young & beautiful. No Botox!
A passive PSU for Aries Mini is EOL of Aries Mini. I had a few and modded these in series. They need a regulated PSU. Don’t bother killing it with strange experiments because Mr X or brand Y do so with totally different stuff Z.
Possibly my pictures float around here somewhere. The largest issue is the totally closed casing and then the crackling DAC. It is sensitive to PSU quality and the original wall wart is so so (cut off the cable for reusing and throw the wall wart away) but the original LPS is quite OK. I still have an extremely well built vibration free cast aluminium Premium DDR LPS by Mr JP from DIYaudio for Aries Mini. It outperformed the original LPS big time. Pure clean bio green power, fresh, healthy, young & beautiful. No Botox!
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You're right about PSU I wasn't thinking. Mini is a computer not a DAC only so must be approached differently. I will drill the chassis ASAP. It works OK with the HD disc for now. The sound from internal DAC with standard wallwart PSU is OK but nothing to write about it. Not offending is the best I can say about it. Local has a couple of them and he runs them stock for several years now in a cabinet with no issue . He just put a quiet mini fan on each of them and additional two in the cabinet to help with air circulation..
Here , we came back to original topic 🙂
Here , we came back to original topic 🙂
It will sound better with good PSU.
Yeah others have stuff standing in the sun with wall wart always connected and all is OK but I usually see the ones already gone bad. The white ones are worst. When already yellow you can wait for the detective DAC chip. Temperature with ventilation slots is way lower. Cheaper than repair. Meanwhile they are so old and have had years of overheating that I don’t gamble and let them be.
The ones either black or white that were used with the LPS and were switched off after use are normally without failure.
Yeah others have stuff standing in the sun with wall wart always connected and all is OK but I usually see the ones already gone bad. The white ones are worst. When already yellow you can wait for the detective DAC chip. Temperature with ventilation slots is way lower. Cheaper than repair. Meanwhile they are so old and have had years of overheating that I don’t gamble and let them be.
The ones either black or white that were used with the LPS and were switched off after use are normally without failure.
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Naim CDS3 as a temporary stand🙂
Once I make the holes I will spray paint the yellow plastic.
Psu is coming..It downed on me that I have a very good 12v PSU which I hooked up to 220v instead of 120 v and now it outputs 24v 🙂 I will check the reg on the board and it should be possible to reconfigure it to 15V. It's sitting on the shelf last couple of years because I had no use for it.
Once I make the holes I will spray paint the yellow plastic.
Psu is coming..It downed on me that I have a very good 12v PSU which I hooked up to 220v instead of 120 v and now it outputs 24v 🙂 I will check the reg on the board and it should be possible to reconfigure it to 15V. It's sitting on the shelf last couple of years because I had no use for it.
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That one is close to being a bad one or it already is. Listen very carefully and pay attention to a nasty distortion usually only in 1 channel at soft passages. It occurs seemingly randomly but it occurs always at the same time and seems signal level related (well it is). If it is OK don’t use it anymore until it has ventilation slots.
The yellow ones are brittle. Be careful. I used to replace the casings for new black ones. Pardon, Black ones.
Make it a 15V 2A PSU. Of course with on/off mains switch and preferably low noise LDO. Less heat is good.
The yellow ones are brittle. Be careful. I used to replace the casings for new black ones. Pardon, Black ones.
Make it a 15V 2A PSU. Of course with on/off mains switch and preferably low noise LDO. Less heat is good.
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It didn't have that much of a playing time being a store demo and they had big auralic playing whenever I was there .I think most of yellowing is age related after initial heath up. Store was closing almost a two years ago and they had a sale . $25 and nobody wanted it. I didn't want it either because it's forcing an Apple on a buyer but the store staff ( which I knew very well ) said ," dont be stoopid " and forced it into my bag🙂 Since every project of mine is taking at least 2 years to get into I'm just playing with it now.
No. It is both mediocre quality white plastic and the heatsink construction combined with being overheating continuously with the 24/7 powered on SMPS. There is a metal plate glued to the top conducting the heat IN the top cover plastic. You can see the contours of the metal plate as the discolored area.
Laymen wait too long (“it will solve itself”, brand X is good etc.) and then the plastic turns from yellow to orange, the DAC is a goner and there is no way to repair it anymore as it will crack/pulverize when disassembled. The ones that have not had many hours won’t discolor as much.
I try to give factual information. I actually repaired quite a few. No possibility to evade defects either. Kaput is kaput. Contrary to the old 50 Euro iPhone 8 that is used to control it.
Laymen wait too long (“it will solve itself”, brand X is good etc.) and then the plastic turns from yellow to orange, the DAC is a goner and there is no way to repair it anymore as it will crack/pulverize when disassembled. The ones that have not had many hours won’t discolor as much.
I try to give factual information. I actually repaired quite a few. No possibility to evade defects either. Kaput is kaput. Contrary to the old 50 Euro iPhone 8 that is used to control it.
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