Not at all.
I've only put it on one plexi sheet and I place it on the stage glass
------------------------- LCD with plexi
-------------------------- Stage glass
No gap
I've only put it on one plexi sheet and I place it on the stage glass
------------------------- LCD with plexi
-------------------------- Stage glass
No gap
hey lifter whats up man i love that controller you found im drooling just thinking about it i dont think im gonna be able to sleep tonight 😉
gui_999 said:
ok first off im not trying to bash you but i dont think its a good idea to put anything upaginst your lcd it traps heat the polarizer is whats getting hot and the plexiglass is traping heat inbetween the lcd but i could be wrong im not a profesonal on the subject so dont flame back at me im just trying to help
let me ask you this when your lcd warms up do you notice like a water ripple on your lcd at all? if you tap the ohp
Never notice that.
Yeah you may be right for the plexi blocking the heat, but how can I place the lcd over the stage glass without some thing suporting it?
I'm curious on that wood frame you built, how it works exactly?
And with your setup you never had heat problems?
Yeah you may be right for the plexi blocking the heat, but how can I place the lcd over the stage glass without some thing suporting it?
I'm curious on that wood frame you built, how it works exactly?
And with your setup you never had heat problems?
ok good
out of all the projectors i built so far i removed the stage glass and the lcd goes where the glass used to be the ohp top will suport the lcd off the fresnel i have always had atleast 1/2" or more inbetween the lcd and the fresnel or you will see rings and trap heat i never had a problem with heat yet and im using 400 watt halogen lamps the first projector i built and sold to my buddy is still kicking *** and its his computer monitor he runs it at least 10 hours a day
as for the wood frame i built i will be dissasembling it to do updates i will take pictures and post them on here for you to look at tomarrow after i get home from work its late here and i gotta get up early tomarrow so im gonna get some sleep and dream of that wonderfull controller lifter found "im soo sick of screen door "
check back tomarrow and there will be plenty of pics for you
out of all the projectors i built so far i removed the stage glass and the lcd goes where the glass used to be the ohp top will suport the lcd off the fresnel i have always had atleast 1/2" or more inbetween the lcd and the fresnel or you will see rings and trap heat i never had a problem with heat yet and im using 400 watt halogen lamps the first projector i built and sold to my buddy is still kicking *** and its his computer monitor he runs it at least 10 hours a day
as for the wood frame i built i will be dissasembling it to do updates i will take pictures and post them on here for you to look at tomarrow after i get home from work its late here and i gotta get up early tomarrow so im gonna get some sleep and dream of that wonderfull controller lifter found "im soo sick of screen door "
check back tomarrow and there will be plenty of pics for you
What's up Cruser, haven't seen you around in a while. Thanks for clarifying the whole split fresnel issue. When Proto did it, he said he had great results, but did not explain what the deal was w/ the rings. I think the general concesnus was that if you have one fresnel above the LCD, the lens needs to focus on that fresnel. Its good news to find out that that is not the case.
So anyways, I split open my 3M fresnel (not the one I was using, I was using an SD305 fresnel). The concept seems very promising but it won't work out with what I'm using.
When I raise the objective lens, I get a beautiful uniformly lit image. However, my LCD is majorly out of focus. When I lower the lens to focus the image, the edges start to darken severly so that I just have a bright circle in the middle.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that a top fresnel with a shorter focal length will solve my problem.
One other thing really confused the hell out of me. My OHP (9850) has a wheel to lower and raise the lamp +- and inch or so. When I lower it all the way, the dark edges partially go away. When I raise it (closest to the LCD) it gets worse. What's up with that? The bottom fresnel is in it's original location, so I'm totally baffeled.
So anyways, I split open my 3M fresnel (not the one I was using, I was using an SD305 fresnel). The concept seems very promising but it won't work out with what I'm using.
When I raise the objective lens, I get a beautiful uniformly lit image. However, my LCD is majorly out of focus. When I lower the lens to focus the image, the edges start to darken severly so that I just have a bright circle in the middle.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that a top fresnel with a shorter focal length will solve my problem.
One other thing really confused the hell out of me. My OHP (9850) has a wheel to lower and raise the lamp +- and inch or so. When I lower it all the way, the dark edges partially go away. When I raise it (closest to the LCD) it gets worse. What's up with that? The bottom fresnel is in it's original location, so I'm totally baffeled.
Yeah, thats why when they said that they were able to focus with the top fresnel on the lcd, I had some problem to understand. ( And that's why I didn't went that way )
When you put the top fresnel on the lcd, with a gap for cooling, you move your top focal lengh by what, 2"? So the focus system "must" be srewed up some ways. But it doesn't seems to be screwed at all. So I think there something I don't understand. 😕
When you put the top fresnel on the lcd, with a gap for cooling, you move your top focal lengh by what, 2"? So the focus system "must" be srewed up some ways. But it doesn't seems to be screwed at all. So I think there something I don't understand. 😕
Omg I think I've understand. The wood frame replace the top of the OHP. By that I mean that you remove the top plastic part that have the fresnel and glass stage.
So you can take appart the fresnel and place it in your wood frame, with the lcd, fans on the sides. And you place this frame on the ohp, where the plastic part was. So to resume, you "rebuild" the top plastic frame, with a homemade wood frame.
So you can take appart the fresnel and place it in your wood frame, with the lcd, fans on the sides. And you place this frame on the ohp, where the plastic part was. So to resume, you "rebuild" the top plastic frame, with a homemade wood frame.
hey lifter i seem to have left out some very important info when i put my rig together and posted
that color dial on the side of the ohp has to be lowered all the way down and the bottom fresnel has to be moved up to where the stage glass was to get anykind of good results
but this is just a test before i pay $250 for a set of fresnels and it will allow me to get the correct focal lengths for the new set
yes we will need a shorter focal length on the top fresnel to more efficiently use the light but i can see that the rings are not gonna be an isue and the great potental for a more uniform lighting of the lcd
oh ya your lens will focus right thru the top fresnel like it isnt
there
i posted a pic below to show where the bottom fresnel was placed
that color dial on the side of the ohp has to be lowered all the way down and the bottom fresnel has to be moved up to where the stage glass was to get anykind of good results
but this is just a test before i pay $250 for a set of fresnels and it will allow me to get the correct focal lengths for the new set
yes we will need a shorter focal length on the top fresnel to more efficiently use the light but i can see that the rings are not gonna be an isue and the great potental for a more uniform lighting of the lcd
oh ya your lens will focus right thru the top fresnel like it isnt
there
i posted a pic below to show where the bottom fresnel was placed
Attachments
gui_999 said:
you dont remove the top of the ohp you just modify it by that i mean cut it enough to allow the light to hit the whole lcd
the wooden frame suports the 2 fresnels and the lcd ontop of the ohp top plastic frame as you can see in the pic above
now here are some more pic's of the setup
Attachments
you can see i cut a 3/16wide and 1/8 deep groove 2" from the bottom of the fresnel that is where the lcd inserts to suport it on 2 sides
the vertical side with the small pcb rests on a 2" piece of wood the horizontal side with the large pcb is suported by a piece cut at a 22.5 degree angle
the vertical side with the small pcb rests on a 2" piece of wood the horizontal side with the large pcb is suported by a piece cut at a 22.5 degree angle
Attachments
Yes cruser, it does have a certain loveliness to it...I guess maybe it's from the color of the wood and the angled piece. Reminds me of the countryside 🙂
What are the specs on the $250 fresnels you are thinking about?
What are the specs on the $250 fresnels you are thinking about?
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