Hello i have been listening to my br1 from pe for a few days, and like i have heard, the midrange just isnt there. Honestly to me these speakers sound really bad. I would like some recomendations for more of a "lively" speaker. I am pairing the speakers with a 15 inch sub that covers up to 80 htz, so i dont need towers. I have been recomened focal 4 inch drivers and 5inch audax aerogels (sp?). Can someone recomend me a speaker with great midrange. I dont really know how to describe it except in that i dont want it to sound like the br1s. I would prefer a premade design with crossover and cabinet info and i dont have a clio test or anything. Thanks
Steven
Steven
Well I have built many pairs and complete HT sets of Ed Frias's ARdiys. I think the midrange and upper frequencies are very good in these speakers. The bass isn't bad either; rolloff at about 38 Hz. I personally have my ARdiys coupled with the awesome Tempest sealed. This is a match made in heaven.
There are many people that rave about these speakers.
http://www.audioreview.com/Learncrx.aspx
Go to the Discussion site > Tweaks, Mods and DIY for current threads about these speakers. There are some new mods to them that you may want to consider.
There are many people that rave about these speakers.
http://www.audioreview.com/Learncrx.aspx
Go to the Discussion site > Tweaks, Mods and DIY for current threads about these speakers. There are some new mods to them that you may want to consider.
stevens,
What budget are you wanting to spend?
Also, I'm in the same boat as you. I'd like a better midrange speaker. I don't care about deep bass, since I have a shiva sub. I also don't have the measuring software. Here's what I've read on the subject:
- You can't expect great sound if you take a standard stock crossover for drivers X and Y. They need to be matched. Without the measuring software and equipment you are better off going with a proven kit (eg. audioreviews DIY kit)
- Some drivers actual and theoretical T/S parameters are wildly different. (Hence why you should measure the drivers T/S parameters before you build). If you want to select your own drivers,or look at kit options, I recommend the LDSG site which is a good guide for good drivers or kits by price.
- Because I live in New Zealand, driver choices are somewhat limited. I'm tossing up between a Vifa P17WJ or Peerless 850122 (the latter is used in the AR DIY kit that MCM talked abot and has received very good reviews).
I'm leaning towards the 850122 because I can use the AR DIY design, and the driver has a very flat on-axis response upto 3KHz (plus I can get it slightly cheaper in NZ than the Vifa).
Whatever you chose, if it is your first 2-way project (like me) don't spend huge money on expensive and excellent drivers (eg the Focals) unless you have the measuring equipment. Even a proven / published crossover from a kit may need tweaking, since the actual T/S parameters for the drivers you buy will be different from published specs.
That is why I am buying moderately priced drivers. I get experience and fun and if it sounds awful, at least I haven't spent heaps of cash.
David.
What budget are you wanting to spend?
Also, I'm in the same boat as you. I'd like a better midrange speaker. I don't care about deep bass, since I have a shiva sub. I also don't have the measuring software. Here's what I've read on the subject:
- You can't expect great sound if you take a standard stock crossover for drivers X and Y. They need to be matched. Without the measuring software and equipment you are better off going with a proven kit (eg. audioreviews DIY kit)
- Some drivers actual and theoretical T/S parameters are wildly different. (Hence why you should measure the drivers T/S parameters before you build). If you want to select your own drivers,or look at kit options, I recommend the LDSG site which is a good guide for good drivers or kits by price.
- Because I live in New Zealand, driver choices are somewhat limited. I'm tossing up between a Vifa P17WJ or Peerless 850122 (the latter is used in the AR DIY kit that MCM talked abot and has received very good reviews).
I'm leaning towards the 850122 because I can use the AR DIY design, and the driver has a very flat on-axis response upto 3KHz (plus I can get it slightly cheaper in NZ than the Vifa).
Whatever you chose, if it is your first 2-way project (like me) don't spend huge money on expensive and excellent drivers (eg the Focals) unless you have the measuring equipment. Even a proven / published crossover from a kit may need tweaking, since the actual T/S parameters for the drivers you buy will be different from published specs.
That is why I am buying moderately priced drivers. I get experience and fun and if it sounds awful, at least I haven't spent heaps of cash.
David.
As ar as a put-together loudspeaker I cannot comment, but if you are DIYing it, there are a few drivers which I've had good success with within certain price ranges. Here's a little break down of certain products I'd reccomend taking a look at (keep in mind these are midwoofers and not really true midranges):
< $50:
Vifa Classic
Seas Standard
$50 - $100:
Peerless HDS
Vifa PL
Digital Designs DDW5.0 and DDW6.5 (they are primarily car audio drivers, but I think their midrange is quite incredible).
> $100
Seas Excel
Scan-Speak
Eton Hexacone
*one particular note I'd like to bring up is a product which I think is extremely special for the price- the Vifa P13WH00-08. It's a 5" midwoofer that has some of the better midrange I've heard for a very good price coming in at $35-40/each depending on where you get it.
< $50:
Vifa Classic
Seas Standard
$50 - $100:
Peerless HDS
Vifa PL
Digital Designs DDW5.0 and DDW6.5 (they are primarily car audio drivers, but I think their midrange is quite incredible).
> $100
Seas Excel
Scan-Speak
Eton Hexacone
*one particular note I'd like to bring up is a product which I think is extremely special for the price- the Vifa P13WH00-08. It's a 5" midwoofer that has some of the better midrange I've heard for a very good price coming in at $35-40/each depending on where you get it.
Wow, those Ed Frias DIY's look good! Here's the link for the latest crossover design:
http://forums14.consumerreview.com/crforum?viewall@199.kvMwacfqgLy.0@.ef96375
Sounds like a good project would be to build this into the Peerless Pipe, since they use the same woofer. I'm thinkin' about it.
http://forums14.consumerreview.com/crforum?viewall@199.kvMwacfqgLy.0@.ef96375
Sounds like a good project would be to build this into the Peerless Pipe, since they use the same woofer. I'm thinkin' about it.
Hi,
De Audax HDA material performs extremely well for midranges IMHO. You can find it in many very good high-end designs. I’ve used the HM130Z4 and this has a very smooth and clear midrange. Voices come out crystal clear. But a lot depends on how well integrated the tweeter is with it.
Also have a look at the Audax AP170Z0. This is a speaker costing around $45,-. Von Schweikert uses it in his commercial monitor designs (e.g. the VR-1). I do not know if this one is modded for VS but at first look it’s not.
😎
De Audax HDA material performs extremely well for midranges IMHO. You can find it in many very good high-end designs. I’ve used the HM130Z4 and this has a very smooth and clear midrange. Voices come out crystal clear. But a lot depends on how well integrated the tweeter is with it.
Also have a look at the Audax AP170Z0. This is a speaker costing around $45,-. Von Schweikert uses it in his commercial monitor designs (e.g. the VR-1). I do not know if this one is modded for VS but at first look it’s not.
😎
You could also consider Bandor mid-range and full-range units. In fact, if you used the superb Bandor 50mm units, you could do without a tweeter altogether.
The Bandor units enable you to design crossover-less systems or systems with the crossover frequency well out of the mid-band.
I use these drivers in my own speakers.
Steve
The Bandor units enable you to design crossover-less systems or systems with the crossover frequency well out of the mid-band.
I use these drivers in my own speakers.
Steve
Hi, I've used the peerless 5.25" drivers with good results coupled to the VIFA 1" ALUMINIUM DOME TWEETER THROUGH A SIMPLE SERIES X'OVER, MIDS WERE VERY NICE TO MY JADED EARS GO GIVE THE PREERLESS A GO
CHEERS,
TJB
CHEERS,
TJB
Once again, tbla and I join in a crusade to get everyone to listen to the ATC soft dome mids- once you've heard them you will always be comparing everything else negatively to them😀
However, if you're building on a budget both the Audax HDA, ( as Pjotr said), and the carbon fibre drivers are well worth looking at, although the HDAs need attention in enclosure design to minimise reflected radiation from the rear wall of the cabinet.
However, if you're building on a budget both the Audax HDA, ( as Pjotr said), and the carbon fibre drivers are well worth looking at, although the HDAs need attention in enclosure design to minimise reflected radiation from the rear wall of the cabinet.
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