btw, I designed this Onken style sub for a fellow member...he already had the woofer
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/224138-beyma-sm-112-n-enclosure-help.html
I agree with this..
The drivers in the Elsinore I use have Low Dynamic Compression and this translates to high volume without fatique and for midrange it's a wonderfull thing.
Joel
I think one could narrow down metals problem area even further to low mids.
There is an awful lot going on there: Bass harmonics/distortion, guitar fundamentals, voice, toms, snare and depending on eq the fundamentals of the larger cymbals.
In combination with heavy compression a tour de force for any speaker and the poor bugger who has to mix that. ;-)
One of the reasons I never liked mixing metal, so easy to turn that region into a mud bath! Especially if your heart isn't in it because you don't actually like metal…
If he goes with a 10" co-axial (did I get that right?) I would look at a 15" to cross in at somewhere between 175 and 250Hz as a starting point.
There is an awful lot going on there: Bass harmonics/distortion, guitar fundamentals, voice, toms, snare and depending on eq the fundamentals of the larger cymbals.
In combination with heavy compression a tour de force for any speaker and the poor bugger who has to mix that. ;-)
One of the reasons I never liked mixing metal, so easy to turn that region into a mud bath! Especially if your heart isn't in it because you don't actually like metal…
If he goes with a 10" co-axial (did I get that right?) I would look at a 15" to cross in at somewhere between 175 and 250Hz as a starting point.
I hope you mean actively; passive crossovers simply do not work correctly at low frequencies due to the driver impedance peaks, especially the twin peaks of a ported design. You can't even compensate for those peaks in the network because they change with drive level.
So if you had a 15" on each side, sure, the crossover could be higher than a typical subwoofer. If only 1 sub, then higher crossover could still be OK if it is between the speakers.
Yes, I do mean active since I always mean active and because crossing passively that low is just too expensive when using quality parts.
Personally I never really liked mono subs, I very much prefer a proper 3way to 2+1.
Not least because it allows you to cross higher and so remove some stress from the mid range driver. It also cleans up the lower mid/upper bass region which I find important especially with metal.
Personally I never really liked mono subs, I very much prefer a proper 3way to 2+1.
Not least because it allows you to cross higher and so remove some stress from the mid range driver. It also cleans up the lower mid/upper bass region which I find important especially with metal.
A question on room size..
Would the Tarkus be too big for rooms the size of 150-250 sq ft? Don't want speakers to overcome the room as they come "alive". From What I read on Paul's site and a PE thread discussion, his build is residing in a BIG (US standard big 🙂) room.
Would the Tarkus be too big for rooms the size of 150-250 sq ft? Don't want speakers to overcome the room as they come "alive". From What I read on Paul's site and a PE thread discussion, his build is residing in a BIG (US standard big 🙂) room.
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