Speaker Turn On Delay and DC Protector Board Set (V2)

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#143
coolnose, that would change the time constant of the DC sense, it would allow a little more or less super low frequency excursions before tripping. You could adjust R12 and R13 to keep the product with C4 the same if you want to make it perform exactly as specified. Either value would probably work just fine.

Making R12/13 19K and 470 uf would be the equivalent. You may also want to adjust R11 to maintain the same ratio with R12 so that the caps discharge at the design rate as well.
 
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#146
giralfino said:
Can I use this board with a BTL amp? Do I need to connect both outputs of a mono bridged amp to a single board?
Ralf
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If it's to be used for a mono BTL amp then you may use both speaker connections on a single board. Any DC fault on the BTL amp output can still trigger the protection side.


EDIT: You will need to connect the 0V of the protector board with the GND of your BTL amp.
 
#147
You will need to connect the 0V of the protector board with the GND of your BTL amp.
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That brings up another question. In general what should be connected to the X1-1 and X1-2 pins? If I have DC the positive should go to X1-1 and ground to X1-2 (leaving out C6 and D6), but if I have AC should I connect one of the AC wires to X1-1 and the amp ground to X1-2?

How many VA does the board need?

Ralf
 
#148
giralfino said:
That brings up another question. In general what should be connected to the X1-1 and X1-2 pins? If I have DC the positive should go to X1-1 and ground to X1-2 (leaving out C6 and D6), but if I have AC should I connect one of the AC wires to X1-1 and the amp ground to X1-2?

How many VA does the board need?

Ralf
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For DC, please connect your + to X1-1 and the - to X1-2 and connect that to amp power ground too. You can jumper D6 or leave it be.

For AC, it really doesn't matter which but X1-2 still goes to amp's power ground.

Depending on the current and voltage of your relays, a smallish 500mA transformer should be more than enough. Remember that if you use 6V relays then you need 12V power supply, for 12V relays, a 24V psu, and so forth.

Have you read the build guide? Everything you need should be there.
 
#149
Last question (unrelated). If I don't need that blinking led, can I just leave out all the components T1, T2, C1, C2, R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, D5? (That would ease my building because I already have the parts needed except relays, and the correct behaviour can be checked by the relays opening/closing).
Thanks again,
Ralf
 
#151
BobEllis said:
NP's arc welder currents can only be delivered into a very low impedance load. With an 4 ohm nominal load, let's assume it dips to 3 ohms at crossover. You'd be hard pressed to exceed the relay's operating current, even with a shorted output device and the usual 30V rails. If in doubt, parallel a couple of GL5s or use one board per channel.
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From a practical point of view, would parralleling the relais be done by connecting AMP 1 to AMP 2 and SPEAKER 1 to SPEAKER 2 close to the relais and keep both triggers ?
 
#153
Coolnose - Yes, that is how you parallel the relays. Sorry for the delay, the board no longer sends me emails when there is a new post.

Larcar, IMHO, the protection circuit transistors have no special requirements other than the appropriate pin out. The KSC1815YTA will work if you reverse the orientation as shown on the silk screen.
 
#160
Received my order - V3 delivered - changes to BOM ?

Hi All,

I just have received my order from diyAudio and of course was delivered a V3 version. Having some V1 I think in stock and having made my mouser order already (well ready to pull the trigger actually) I was wondering if the BOM for both Softstart and Speaker-protection board had changed.

Thanks,

Max
 
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