Hi, new to this whole thing btw, go easy on me.
I have two beovox S25 without drivers, just the cabinets.
I was wondering if i should put a 6.5" woofer + 2" tweeter, or woofer + 2" fullrange.
And then also what the filter + crossover freq should should be.
Saw some places say 3kHz-3.5kHz is good?
I have two beovox S25 without drivers, just the cabinets.
I was wondering if i should put a 6.5" woofer + 2" tweeter, or woofer + 2" fullrange.
And then also what the filter + crossover freq should should be.
Saw some places say 3kHz-3.5kHz is good?
My favorites are Mark Audio Alpair 5.2/3 or Fostex FF85wk. Mark Audio CHN-50 if you are on a budget.
What is the box volume?
dave
What is the box volume?
dave
Yeah, the 500 Hz half power point of a full orchestra was the pioneer's default with 300 Hz for public address (PA) systems, so hard to go wrong.
There are the usual basic considerations but the first thing that occurs Is what are those ?! Is It a shell of plastic onto a cabinet of grainy glue/pressure compacted wood? The purpose should be to sustain a pair of speakers in order to let them vibrate and to contain the backwave (cyclical vibrations produce waves ) that Is antiphase.
Oh, and the vibrations produced by the speaker itself...people go Crazy !
Oh, and the vibrations produced by the speaker itself...people go Crazy !
1. make sure you know what the actual dimensions are for the drivers (relative to mounting on and into the cabinets).
2. make sure that any driver you pick for the tweeter/fullrange (in particular) has enough clearance to inset into the sub-enclosure for the tweeter. ALSO, try to get a good guesstimate of the dimensions to figure-out the volume of the enclosures for the tweeter.
3. Play with a baffle-step loss calculator to get some idea of the cabinet's effects on pressure loss and gain of the cabinet's diffraction profile. For ease I'd suggest the Edge.
http://www.tolvan.com/index.php?page=/edge/edge.php
4. Once you've played with it and figured it out then move onto something like Basta for simple modeling.
http://www.tolvan.com/index.php?page=/basta/basta.php
Given that you think it's a 2" driver opening - I'd suggest this one (and it will work reasonably well down to 500 Hz):
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/peerless-by-tymphany/TA6FD00-04/6211140
http://feleppa.com.au/pics/speaker_imgs/plots/TA6FD_RawHarm.png
For a partnering 4 ohm 6.5" woofer (assuming it will work with the cabinet), perhaps the Dayton Audio RS150-4.
https://www.daytonaudio.com/images/resources/295-372-dayton-audio-rs150-4-spec-sheet-revised.pdf
2. make sure that any driver you pick for the tweeter/fullrange (in particular) has enough clearance to inset into the sub-enclosure for the tweeter. ALSO, try to get a good guesstimate of the dimensions to figure-out the volume of the enclosures for the tweeter.
3. Play with a baffle-step loss calculator to get some idea of the cabinet's effects on pressure loss and gain of the cabinet's diffraction profile. For ease I'd suggest the Edge.
http://www.tolvan.com/index.php?page=/edge/edge.php
4. Once you've played with it and figured it out then move onto something like Basta for simple modeling.
http://www.tolvan.com/index.php?page=/basta/basta.php
Given that you think it's a 2" driver opening - I'd suggest this one (and it will work reasonably well down to 500 Hz):
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/peerless-by-tymphany/TA6FD00-04/6211140
http://feleppa.com.au/pics/speaker_imgs/plots/TA6FD_RawHarm.png
For a partnering 4 ohm 6.5" woofer (assuming it will work with the cabinet), perhaps the Dayton Audio RS150-4.
https://www.daytonaudio.com/images/resources/295-372-dayton-audio-rs150-4-spec-sheet-revised.pdf
😊 (..lol.)
While it doesn't look great, it can't be much worse than most designs with similarly shaped panels (..overall dimensions including thickness). Baffle looks to be ABS and I'm guessing the rest is chip-board. IF it's really cheap with very thin walled panels then it will be that much easier to damp. 😉
Long story short: most cabinets suck! 😱😊 (..and it will likely need mod.s as well to make a decent speaker of it.)
While it doesn't look great, it can't be much worse than most designs with similarly shaped panels (..overall dimensions including thickness). Baffle looks to be ABS and I'm guessing the rest is chip-board. IF it's really cheap with very thin walled panels then it will be that much easier to damp. 😉
Long story short: most cabinets suck! 😱😊 (..and it will likely need mod.s as well to make a decent speaker of it.)