Hi there,
I´m actually building a F5 and have a working Pearl II. I´m wondering which would be the best diy-speaker project for the Firstwatt clones. I mainly listen to pop, electro and 6ts soul and am open to any system. The whole project shouldn´t cost more than 600 $.
The woodworking can be done by me, cause professional machines can be used.
Many thanks and best,
Rents
I´m actually building a F5 and have a working Pearl II. I´m wondering which would be the best diy-speaker project for the Firstwatt clones. I mainly listen to pop, electro and 6ts soul and am open to any system. The whole project shouldn´t cost more than 600 $.
The woodworking can be done by me, cause professional machines can be used.
Many thanks and best,
Rents
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room size , SPL , bass habits ;
however ,you can always go full FW route - FW amp + active fed OB spk system
however ,you can always go full FW route - FW amp + active fed OB spk system
Thanks for the answer. Room size is about 25 square meters. Bass should be precise but if I´d have to choose resolution would be more appreciated.
A classic 50 W/100 Wmax speaker would do fine.
Experimenting with new 2" speakers, they do fine for tweeter.
Putting two of them in series and letting only one to emit the treble by putting
a cap across the other one, makes a nice mid-treble unit at low cost.
Then add a woofer and cross at 500 Hz.
If using 4 Ω drivers for mid-treble the woofer can be a model for car.
Experimenting with new 2" speakers, they do fine for tweeter.
Putting two of them in series and letting only one to emit the treble by putting
a cap across the other one, makes a nice mid-treble unit at low cost.
Then add a woofer and cross at 500 Hz.
If using 4 Ω drivers for mid-treble the woofer can be a model for car.
Rents , look for BiB* threads
*Bigger is Better - if I'm not mistaken , that means nice main driver ( usually FR) assisted on bottom (and top , if needed)
there are several solutions , all sharing basic principle of drivers matching/organisation
*Bigger is Better - if I'm not mistaken , that means nice main driver ( usually FR) assisted on bottom (and top , if needed)
there are several solutions , all sharing basic principle of drivers matching/organisation
I will try next a MONACOR MENHIR with my Aleph J and F5.
Should be a really good match at the moment a have this Speaker
on my amps
diffusori Tipsy by Alberto Bellino
mine looks a little bit different but are the same inside.
If google translate has not fool me they should have an impedance of 8Ohm 92db sensitivity and goes from 60hz - 22khz.
The bass is al little bit weak but if this not most important or a subwoofer is in the house, they should be fine.
Should be a really good match at the moment a have this Speaker
on my amps
diffusori Tipsy by Alberto Bellino
mine looks a little bit different but are the same inside.
If google translate has not fool me they should have an impedance of 8Ohm 92db sensitivity and goes from 60hz - 22khz.
The bass is al little bit weak but if this not most important or a subwoofer is in the house, they should be fine.
...not seen you would not spend more than 600$ so Menhirs are out of game
.
but take a look at strassacker.de maybe you find something there
maybe CT263, CT235 or Wallter

but take a look at strassacker.de maybe you find something there
maybe CT263, CT235 or Wallter
I made a really nice OB with Alpha 15 in U-frame, beta 12Lta with phase plug for mids and super tweeter you prefer. Very nice sounding speakers for half of you budget 🙂.
Thanks for the answers. I definitely wanna go the FR route and have actually two speakers with Visaton B200. It would be great, to implement a bass-sytem afterwards. Are there any horn-projects out there that will fit the F5 very good? My budget of 600$ is for the speakers only.
I also said to go with FR, much smaller .Thanks for the answers. I definitely wanna go the FR route and have actually two speakers with Visaton B200.
Series connection with one cap across one driver it's not really 'crossover evilness' . Much like 0.5 order 🙄🙂
Maybe you can find a woofer that don't need any lowpass coil for good reproduction; a cap for high-passing the mid-tw module is of course necessary.
But you don't need to do such big woofers with a strip holding the mid-tw in a coaxyal fashion.
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